Monday, October 5, 2026

《青春斷代史,1987:鑑真號輪船、岷江飯店的佛跳牆,與筆記本上的一隻耳朵》

J在最初從美國寄給我的信中寫道:“Please write me in Japan. Can you? It is difficult not seeing you or talking to you. It is as though you have disappeared from the earth... Have courage, Fen!”(「請寫信給我,寄到日本,可以嗎?看不到妳、無法跟妳說話,日子真的很難熬。那感覺,就彷彿妳已經從地球上徹底消失了一樣……要勇敢,芬!」)
然而,我沒有主動先給J寫信。一來,我從小就被灌輸的傳統觀念認為:男人應該主動、女人應該矜持;二來,我內心固執地認為他的地位比我高,受的教育比我好,也比我富有。他有充分的自由去他想去的地方、做他想做的事,可我除了天性善良,什麼都沒有,我憑什麼能主動?我並不是拜金女,儘管內心深處,依然希望男方在各方面都能比我強。當時我心想,如果我是處在地位高、條件好的一方,我也許就會對我喜歡的人主動一些。不少人聽了可能會認為我這樣做很笨、很不可理喻,可我就是聰明不起來。有一次在黃山散步獨處時,J曾問我想找一個什麼樣的丈夫,我用簡單的單詞回答他:“Handsome and good heart.”——一是要帥,二是要心地善良。
後來,他在日本東海大學(Tokai University)教英語,也在早稻田大學(Waseda University)兼職,甚至還在《朝日新聞》英文版做過編輯。據說當時社裡有兩個英文編輯,魏京生震動國際的那部《獄中手記》,當年就是通過另外一位編輯的手,秘密轉交到《紐約時報》發表出來的。
提到教英語口語,J在信裡說這還得感謝我,正是因為在華東師大那一小時一小時的耐心教我的基礎會話,才讓他事先有了教亞洲學生口語的寶貴經驗,因為他之前在學校並不是教口語課程的。
那段時間,J欣喜地來信分享了他關於沙葉新先生及其劇作《尋找男子漢》的評論文章,在麥迪遜(Madison)的文學刊物上發表了。他經常寫一些文學評論在頗有聲望的雜誌上發表。之前在上海時,他還拜訪過曹禺先生和沙葉新先生。
至今,我手裡還保存著他當時拍下的珍貴照片:這是J與曹禺先生的合影,另两張則是J拍的沙葉新先生在自家陽台上的照片。
很多年後的2009年12月,我在網絡上無意間看到了沙葉新先生的博客,便試著把這兩張舊照片通過電子郵件發給了他。
沒想到,沙葉新先生很快便給我回了信,字裡行間充滿了溫暖與歷史的滄桑:
「芬女士:您好。收到妳的照片我非常高興。那時我簡直像個小孩,好年輕,其實那時我已經是47歲了,如今都70了。我不知道我有沒有記錯,好像妳的前夫那時看過我的《尋找男子漢》,還把劇本翻譯成了英文。是嗎?他好嗎?如果妳還與他有聯繫,請代我向他問好。我的孩子在美國,我明年回去紐約。再一次謝謝妳。新年到了,新年好!——沙葉新」
時光拉回到1987年元旦那天,J利用假期從日本前來上海看我。我到匯山碼頭去接他。那天,我六哥特意開了他們單位裡的小車過來——在那個年代,街上還根本沒有私家車這種東西。J是搭乘往返於上海和大阪之間的「鑑真號」輪船來的。船倒是極其準時地靠了岸,可由於繁瑣的邊防檢查,乘客們硬是在船艙裡等了整整一個小時才被允許下船。
當J終於走進候客室、我迎上去時,他試圖給我一個擁吻。我卻本能地身子一僵,轉身便把頭扭了開去。J一臉奇怪而受傷地問我:“Don't you love me anymore?”(「妳不再愛我了嗎?」)在西方文化裡,久別相見擁吻是再正常不過的禮節,可我當時在眾目睽睽之下實在放不開。那時的中國,根本沒有任何人敢在公共場合擁吻,這被認為是「有礙觀瞻」。
我們上了六哥的車離開碼頭,去了南京東路上的一家高級餐廳。我打算請J吃頓豐盛的午餐。然而,等我們趕到時,卻被告知下午兩點餐廳已經歇業了。我們又試了另一家,結果同樣因為過了兩點不予接待。我和六哥都已經餓得前胸貼後背,最後還是J建議說:「去靜安賓館吧。」
在那個年頭,靜安賓館那種高檔涉外地方,一般中國老百姓是根本進不去的。但那一天因為有J在一起,門衛便沒有攔我們。那裏的餐廳全天候隨時都可以用餐,我們終於坐了下來。
然而,餐後最尷尬的事情發生了。結帳時被告知餐廳不收人民幣,他們只收外匯券或外幣。我和六哥兜裡哪裡會有那種錢?我頓時紅了臉,無比羞愧地低聲問:「J,對不起……妳能付一下這頓飯錢嗎?」明明是我要請他吃接風宴的,而且那頓飯在當時確實很貴。可憐的J,一到上海,立刻就被我們给「坑」了。
我預先幫J安排住在了四個月前他住過的那間專家樓403房間,住宿費在當時是每晚六七十塊人民幣。
1987年1月於專家樓403室
這是J在專家樓給我拍的第二張照片,我身上穿的那件粗羊毛手工編織的棒針衫,正是幾個月前他在和平飯店第一次送給我的那五件禮物之一。我至今一共只有兩張在專家樓裡拍的照片,而且,全是在403室。

1986年5月於專家樓403室
這兩張照片放在一起看時,會發現一個有趣的色差問題:87年的這張照片背景牆布是淺藍色的,與我的灰色棒針衫很和諧,人造革沙發呈現棕紅色;而一年前的那張照片,牆布看上去卻帶著點暗草綠色,沙發偏向棕黃,衣服與牆布的顏色也是相得益彰。同樣的牆布與沙發,對著不同色彩的衣服竟然會自動調節色調,這估計與拍照時的時間、光線有關。那時他的相機是尼康(Nikon)的,我記得鏡頭前還裝著一片UV鏡。
那幾天的上海天氣陰冷多雨,J一落地便著涼感冒了。我們騎著自行車在市區裡到處轉了轉,路過熱鬧的華亭路服裝小販市場,也在長風公園裡散了散步。在長風公園拍照時,我身上穿的那件黑色粗燈芯絨短大衣,是J從日本給我買的。那食指長的圓錐形紐扣是用真牛角做的。
長風公園裡有一座跨越河道的滑梯,河面倒是不寬。J像個大孩子一樣,興沖沖地爬上了高高的梯子,而我則沿著岸邊繞道去了河對岸。在滑梯頂上,J居高臨下地對著對岸的我,拍了一張俯視角度的照片。看著他那一臉孩子氣的高興,隨後他一撒手,便從高處「嗖」地一聲滑了下來。
可誰能想到,那個年代的滑梯底部設計得極不科學,完全沒有任何減速的緩衝坡。結果J滑到底部時,毫無防備,結結實實地挨了個屁股墩兒!這一下摔得可真叫一個「懊悶痛」!看著他齜牙咧嘴的狼狽樣,我心裡一陣好笑——「老夫聊發少年狂」的時候,切記還是要小心啊。
到了1月4日那天,天氣陰冷,J看著我說了一句:“Maybe we should get married.”(「也許我們該結婚吧。」)
聽到這句話,我一時呆在那裡,完全不知道該怎麼回答。他用的是 “Maybe(也許)”,而不是「咱們結婚吧」或者是「嫁給我吧」,如果他當時那樣說,估計我還能順著話音答上來。當然,我聽到這句話心裡是很高興的,但同時,隱隱約約覺得兩人間似乎還缺少點什麼——少了一點激情。古典文學裡那些驚心動魄的愛情故事,令我嚮往。我夢想著充滿激情的愛,可我當時卻根本不知道該如何去得到它,也不知道如何表達我炙熱的內心。我太過於追求冷若冰霜了,因而我的情感沸點高。也許正是因為J摸不准我那的想法,才用了一句 “maybe” 來試探我;又或許,是那幾天陰冷潮濕的天氣加上感冒的折磨,影響了我們的情緒。我在J面前總顯得非常緊張,總擔心自己太過膚淺,被他看不起。而有一件事是確定無疑的:我的英語真的很差,我們之間的溝通很難。
我請J去家裡見了家人吃了飯。請留學生食堂工作的小Z幫忙做了一桌子的美味菜餚。記得那桌菜裡有一道既簡單又極其好吃的點綴,是在油炸得蓬鬆酥脆的粉絲上,撒上黑芝麻。小Z告訴我這道菜叫「螞蟻上樹」。以前還從沒聽說過。
到了1月6日那天,我請J去膠州路上的岷江飯店吃飯。為了這頓飯,我提前三天就向店家預訂了他們的招牌菜——「佛跳牆」。後來我意識到這世間並非人們想像中那般簡單,而這道菜的名字對佛祖其實是大大的不敬。佛家講究的是無執無欲,怎麼可能會因為區區的人間香氣就按捺不住、破戒「跳牆」過來吃呢?據說這道菜極其費功夫,需要用文火慢燉幾天幾夜,在不同的時間段精準地投入不同的食材,方能保證色香味俱全。裡面的主要食材是不尋常的深海魚貝和鵪鶉蛋。
巧的是,那天我和J騎車經過南京東路時,我們竟然在街頭迎面遇見了大鬍子法國人伊夫(Yves)和他的女友。那個大鬍子伊夫,正是幾個月前的3月15日那天,在留學生食堂舉辦的那場改變我命運的舞會上,主動跟我說過幾句話、並在J步入舞場後順手把J介紹給我的法國人「衣服(伊夫)」。
我便讓J邀請他們一起去吃。於是,我們四個人在岷江飯店裡吃了一頓極其豐盛的晚餐。我又加了四道菜,大家吃得很開心。我花了85.45元,這頓飯的花費比我一個月的薪水還多。
第二天,1月7日的清晨六點,我六哥開著車,將J送去了虹橋機場。
1987年1月18日,J打電話來,說他一切都好,離開上海後他回了一趟紐約。我開始讀美國歷史加緊學習英語。真正體會到了臨時抱佛腳的急切與悔恨。
到了3月14日下午4點15分,J從日本打電話來。可在電話裡,我依然無法和他多聊。真的是書到用時方恨少,我學習英語的進度實在是太慢了。兩天後的3月16日,他又打來電話,說他馬上就要來上海了。3月19日晚上7點15分,J在電話裡告訴了我他的航班號是3503,將於第二天下午5點30分抵達虹橋機場。
3月20日,我去機場接他。這一次,我沒能幫他預訂到專家樓四樓那間403室,住在了一樓。21日那天,我陪著J一起去買了回程的機票,到了24日又離開了。
在這短短的幾天裡,我們一起在華東師大校園後面的一家小餐館裡吃了頓飯,在坐的有幾位他之前教過的英語系研究生。看著J和他的學生們用流利的英語談笑風生,而我只能僵硬地坐在旁邊微笑,很不是滋味兒。
我在1月21日的筆記本上寫下:「必須努力學習英文,如果不行就別結婚!」並且畫了一隻耳朵和三個感嘆號「!!!」

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Chronicles of Youth, 1987: The Jianzhen Ferry, "Buddha Jumps the Wall," and an Ear Sketched with Three Exclamation Marks

In the initial letters J dispatched to me from America, he wrote: "Please write me in Japan. Can you? It is difficult not seeing you or talking to you. It is as though you have disappeared from the earth... Have courage!"

Yet, in the end, I did not take the initiative to write to him first. For one, the traditional upbringing drilled into me since childhood dictated that the man must take the initiative while the woman remains reserved. Furthermore, I believed that his status was higher than mine; he was more highly educated, and he was wealthier. He possessed the freedom to travel wherever he pleased and do what he wanted, whereas I possessed nothing except a naturally kind and pure heart. Why should I take the initiative? I was no gold-digger, even if deep within my heart, I hoped my future partner would be stronger than me across various aspects. I reasoned that if I were the one occupying the superior position, I would take the initiative with someone I liked. Many might judge such a stance as foolish, yet I simply couldn't change my nature. Once, while we were walking alone together on Mount Huang, J inquired as to what sort of husband I sought. I answered using simple words: "Handsome and good heart." One, he must be handsome; two, he must be kind-hearted.

Later, he taught English at Tokai University, held a part-time lectureship at Waseda University, and served as an English-language editor for the Asahi Shimbun. There were two English editors back then, and it was said that through the hands of the other editor, Wei Jingsheng’s prison memoirs were turned over to The New York Times for publication.

Regarding his oral English instruction, J remarked in his mail that he owed a debt of gratitude to me; it was the practice sessions he had with me at East China Normal University that had furnished him with prior experience in teaching oral speech, since his official course load at ECNU did not include oral English courses.

During that period, J wrote with joy to share the news that his article concerning Mr. Sha Yexin and his play, Looking for a Real Man, had been published in a Madison journal. He frequently authored literary reviews for well-regarded magazines. While staying in Shanghai, he visited Mr. Cao Yu and Mr. Sha Yexin.

To this day, I still preserve those photographs: one is a photograph of J and Mr. Cao Yu casually seated on a sofa, with J sitting on Mr. Cao Yu's right, a portable cassette recorder and teacups sitting atop the coffee table in front of them. And the other two are front-view photographs he took of Mr. Sha Yexin on his balcony, leaning casually against the concrete railing with his left hand in his pants pocket. In December 2009, I saw Mr. Sha Yexin’s blog on the internet and forwarded these two vintage prints to him via email.

Mr. Sha Yexin dispatched a response:

"Ms. Fen: Greetings. I am very glad to receive your photographs. Back then, I looked like a child—so young—though in reality, I was already 47 years old at that time, and today I am 70. I am not certain if my memory plays tricks on me, but it seems your former husband read my play, Looking for a Real Man, back then, and even translated the script into English. Is that so? How is he? If you still maintain contact with him, please convey my regards. My children reside in the United States, and I shall return to New York next year. Thank you once more. The New Year is upon us; Happy New Year! —Sha Yexin"

Shifting the chronicle back to New Year's Day of 1987, J used his holiday break to travel from Japan to Shanghai to see me. I went to fetch him at the Huishan Wharf. On that morning, my sixth older brother operated a vehicle borrowed from his work unit—for in that era, private cars did not exist. J arrived aboard the Jianzhen ferry, a vessel bridging Shanghai and Osaka. The ferry berthing was punctual, yet passengers were forced to wait inside the cabins for an hour before being permitted to disembark.

When J walked into the waiting hall and I stepped forward, he attempted to embrace and kiss me. However, I turned away. J asked, "Don't you love me anymore?" Within Western culture, an embrace and kiss upon reunion is normal etiquette, but I could not do it in public. In the China of that era, nobody did that in public spaces; the public would view it as bad behavior.

We boarded my brother’s vehicle and departed the wharf, heading toward Nanjing East Road. I intended to treat J to a nice lunch. Yet when we arrived, we were told that the restaurant had already closed at two o'clock for its afternoon break. We tried another eatery, but it also did not accept customers past two o'clock. My brother and I were very hungry; ultimately, it was J who suggested, "Let's go to the Jing'an Hotel."

In those years, an establishment like the Jing'an Hotel was difficult for ordinary Chinese citizens to enter. Yet on that afternoon, because we walked alongside J, the male gatekeepers in their sharp uniforms did not stop our progress. The dining room offered all-day service, and we finally sat down.

Yet upon the conclusion of the meal, an awkward moment unfolded. When the server delivered the bill, he informed us that they did not accept RMB—they accepted only Foreign Exchange Certificates (FEC) or foreign currency. My brother and I did not have that kind of money.

"J, I am sorry... could you pay for this meal?" I asked shyly. It was I who wanted to treat him to his welcoming meal, and the bill was indeed expensive. Poor J—the moment he landed in Shanghai, he was immediately "swindled" by us.

I had pre-arranged for him to reside inside Room 403 of the Foreign Experts Building, which cost roughly sixty to seventy RMB per night back then. Today, I still hold the second photograph J ever snapped of me inside that building. In the frame, the heavy, hand-knitted wool cable sweater I wear was one of those first gifts he purchased for me at the Peace Hotel. I possess only two photographs captured inside the Foreign Experts Building across my entire life—and both were taken inside Room 403. 

Placing these two prints side-by-side reveals an interesting variation in color tones. In this photo, the background wall covering appears light blue, blending harmoniously with my gray sweater, and the faux-leather armchair presents a brownish-red hue. In contrast, the print from a year prior shows the wall covering taking on a muted, grass-green shade, while the armchair shifts toward a brownish-yellow. It is quite peculiar how the identical wall covering and the exact same armchair seemed to automatically adjust their color tones against different colored clothing. This was likely due to the specific time of day and the quality of light when the shutters snapped. His camera back then was a Nikon, and I remember a UV filter was attached to the front of the lens.

The weather in Shanghai during those days was gray and rainy; J caught a cold almost the moment he landed. We bicycled around the city, traversing the busy Huating Road clothing market and strolling through Changfeng Park. The black, heavy corduroy short coat I wore was something J had specially purchased for me in Japan. The finger-long conical buttons were crafted from genuine ox horn.

Changfeng Park housed a playground slide that bridged across a small channel of the river. J climbed the ladder, while I took the long way around to the opposite shore. Standing at the summit of the slide, J captured a downward-angle photograph of me standing on the far bank. Witnessing his childlike joy, he let go of his grip and came sliding down from the heights.

Yet the slide of that era was not designed with a proper buffer at the bottom. As a consequence, J hit the baseline of the slide and landed hard on his tailbone! It was a real agonizing ache. Watching him look miserable, I felt a bit amused—when an old man decides to act like a youth, he must exercise caution.

On January 4, J looked across at me and said: "Maybe we should get married."

Hearing those words, I did not know how to respond. He utilized the word "Maybe," rather than a statement like "Let's get married" or "Marry me"—had he spoken thus, I likely could have offered an answer. Of course, I was glad, but I felt something was still wanting; there lacked a bit of passion. The romance in classical literature had always been my yearning. I dreamed of a love filled with passion, yet I did not know how to achieve it, let alone how to articulate my inner thoughts. I was too guarded and reserved, so my emotional boiling point was high. Perhaps because J couldn't read past my distant exterior, he resorted to a tentative "maybe" to test my thoughts; or perhaps the damp chill of those few days coupled with his cold had affected our spirits. I remained tense in J's presence, worried that I was too shallow and afraid of being looked down upon by him. Yet one reality was absolute: my English was poor, and communication between us was difficult.

I invited J to my parents' home to meet my family and have a meal together. Xiao Z, who worked inside the international students' dining hall, came to assist us and made a table of delicious dishes. I remember a simple yet delicious dish: fried vermicelli threads with black sesame seeds scattered on top, called "Ants Climbing a Tree." Growing up, I had never heard such a name.

On January 6, I invited J to dinner at the Minjiang Restaurant located on Jiaozhou Road. For this specific feast, I had pre-ordered their flagship dish—'Buddha Jumps the Wall'—a full three days in advance. Later, I realized that this world is not as simple as people imagine, and that the title was, in truth, deeply irreverent toward the Buddha. Buddhism dictates an existence entirely devoid of attachment or desire; how could a Buddha possibly break his vows and leap across a wall simply because of a worldly aroma? The primary components consisted of deep-sea delicacies and quail eggs.

On that afternoon as J and I rode our bicycles through Nanjing East Road, we met a large, bearded Frenchman named Yves and his girlfriend. That very bearded Yves was the Frenchman who, several months prior on March 15 at that international student mixer, had spoken a few words to me and subsequently introduced J to me the moment J stepped onto the floor.

I had J invite them along to share our feast. And so, the four of us sat down to dinner at the Minjiang Restaurant. I ordered four extra dishes to the spread, and everyone dined in high spirits. The meal cost me 85.45 yuan—a sum that exceeded my entire monthly salary at the time.

At six o'clock the following morning, January 7, my sixth older brother drove J to Hongqiao Airport.

On January 18, 1987, J called to say everything was fine; he had returned to New York after leaving Shanghai. I started reading American history and intensifying my English studies. I truly experienced the urgency and regret of last-minute cramming.

At 4:15 on the afternoon of March 14, J placed another long-distance call from Japan. I remained unable to carry on any sort of deep dialogue with him. Truly, one only laments the scarcity of books when it is time to deploy their knowledge; my English progress was too slow. Two days later, on March 16, he called once more, reporting that he was arriving in Shanghai immediately. At 7:15 on the evening of March 19, J called to relay his flight number: 3503, scheduled to touch down at Hongqiao Airport at 5:30 the following afternoon.

On March 20, I went to the airport and fetched him. This time, I failed to secure his Room 403 on the fourth floor; perhaps someone was already staying there, so he lodged in a room on the first floor. On March 21, I accompanied J to the civil aviation office to purchase his return ticket, and by March 24, J departed Shanghai once more.

During those few brief days, we shared a meal at a small restaurant behind the East China Normal University campus, joined by several graduate students from the English department whom he had previously taught. Watching J and his students chatting and laughing animatedly in fluent English—while I sat stiffly to the side, merely smiling—left me feeling deeply uncomfortable and out of place.

In my notebook on January 21st, I wrote: "Must study English with all my might. If I fail, do not get married!"

Alongside the ink, I drew a sketch of an ear, punctuated by three exclamation marks: "!!!"

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第三百八十三篇

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