Monday, October 26, 2026

《霓虹生機與棕色護照:長洲島的星洲炒粉,與泰領館的冷眼》

每到節假日,J 都是在家待不住的。他買了到香港的來回機票,打算途經香港在那裡申辦我的泰國旅遊簽證,去泰國看看。

1989年2月20日星期一上午10點15分,飛機從成田機場起飛,下午2點37分到達香港。在九龍旺角的一家 STB hostel 學聯旅舍登記入住後,我們就近轉了轉。

也許是因為剛從一塵不染的日本飛過來,九龍給我的第一印象是髒、亂、擠,到處是廣告牌,有點兒扎眼。在我看來,這裡似乎還沒上海的南京路、淮海路、外灘來得乾淨整潔,1980年代上海南京路上還沒有巨幅廣告牌。J 卻跟我相反,他認為這裡新鮮有趣、生機勃勃、充滿活力,不像日本那樣,雖然潔淨但拘謹、古板、千篇一律、消沉無趣。

夜晚,閃爍的霓虹燈將白天的滿目凌亂變得有點兒溫馨迷人。

2月21日,在九龍尖沙咀彌敦道上的 Sam's tailor 山姆裁縫店,J 訂做了一套西裝,也給我訂做了一件淺駝色 cashmere 羊絨西式上裝。後來才聽說好多達官顯貴像美國前總統、英國王子、歌王影星等都來這裡訂做過服裝。當時聽 J 提起過這個裁縫店很 famous(有名),可我只是聽了並沒怎麼在意。過去受的教育是不能追求物質享受,那是資產階級的東西,所以我根本沒有品牌意識,只知道服裝面料要好,做工要講究,看上去端莊大方就行。那也是過去聽我小哥哥阿六說的:「不要趕時髦,更不要穿奇裝異服,那些都會很快過時。沒錢也不買便宜的東西,把錢攢夠了,要么不買,要買就買高質量的東西,做衣服要買全棉、全毛、全麻的面料。」

從尖沙咀乘坐渡船到中環,去了泰國領事館,卻吃了閉門羹,泰國的萬佛節放假期間不辦公。好在辦成了從香港回東京的簽證。都說到香港一定要買點黃金,在琳瑯滿目的周大福黃金首飾店裡,J 給我買了一條 999.9 金項鏈,當時1錢黃金是 388 元港幣。


荷李活道(Hollywood Road):香港開埠後的第一條街道。Hollywood Road: The very first street constructed after the founding of Hong Kong.


上環戰前老唐樓與底樓的「容發鐵工程」排檔。1980年代末,這些承載著幾代人生計的老街坊,正默默地在現代城市的清拆重建中告別。Old pre-war Tong Lau tenement buildings and the "Yung Fat Iron Engineering" stall in Sheung Wan. In the late 1980s, these old neighborhoods were quietly fading away amid modern urban renewal.


中上環的小商業街。窄窄的街道、密集的排檔與熙攘的街坊,散發出老香港最溫馨的煙火氣。A small commercial lane near Central and Sheung Wan. The narrow street and bustling market stalls exude the warmest, most authentic atmosphere of old Hong Kong.

2月22日,總算把申請材料遞上去了。23日,去了長洲島和大嶼山島的梅窩,景色很美。忘記了是在哪個島上,沿海灘一路排開的海鮮市場很有趣,無遮無蓬,沒桌沒台,大盆小罐都攤在地上。剛從海裡打撈上來的魚、蝦、蟹、龜、鱉、螺、蚌、貝類在大盆子裡歡蹦亂跳、伸縮遊弋,等待著被消費者的眼光選中。魚市路對面的小戶人家則在門前放置了招牌,代客做菜,加工費2塊5港幣。就是說遊客們在自由市場上買了海鮮、蔬菜等,拿到那裡請他們加工了吃。

我們也花了 49 塊港幣買了活螃蟹和螺,找了街面上比較僻靜的一家,請女主人做給我們吃。吃完一算,兩個菜他們要收我們加工費 25 + 18.5 = 43.5 港幣。豈有此理!明明門口的招牌上寫著加工費2塊5港幣的。J 很生氣,明碼標價地被人宰是願者上鉤的無奈,但是如此這般地暗渡陳倉是不講商業信譽的可恥。跟他們理論,但語言不通,最後他們把 18.5 的那筆加工費降到了 2.5 港幣,才結帳走人。

2月24日,在長洲島一家小客棧過的夜。轉了一個上午,到了下午兩點,肚子很餓。找到水邊一家有漁家風情、質樸無華、竹子搭起的水榭餐館。雖然老闆娘正準備午間休息,但是還熱情地招待了我們。端上來兩大盤子熱氣騰騰、色香味俱全、有多種海鮮的星洲炒米粉和一碗湯。我是第一次吃星洲炒粉,味道好極了!

穿過一個不知名小村鎮的擁擠繁忙集市,來到了一大片看上去黑乎乎、灰兮兮的海邊。走近了才發現,岸邊礁石上密密麻麻、層層疊疊地長著牡蠣,有的海邊住家圍牆上也砌著錯落有致的牡蠣殼,不但美觀又經濟實用。

手抓牆上的牡蠣殼,用力啃蘋果的這一瞬間被 J 拍了下來。

2月26日,在交易廣場噴水池邊驚喜地遇到了讀夜大的同學 F。她溫文爾雅,美貌恬靜,而我慣於獨處、不善交際,所以在校期間我們沒能說上兩句話,但在香港偶遇還是有他鄉遇故知的感覺。

她與丈夫去美國留學後定居香港。我們去了他們的公寓,在鯉景灣太康街上的一棟大樓裡,在香港寸土寸金的地方,他們小兩口住得相當寬敞。他們在香港的一家華麗大酒家請我們吃飯,四個人吃了許多那家店裡有名的水煮蝦,遺憾沒記住店名。

說好我們從泰國回來路過香港時候回請他們的,可是事不由人,美好的許諾沒能兌現。雖然事後我從日本寄了在泰國特意給他們買的禮物,一個栩栩如生的大象群石雕,一頭大象膝下圍了一群小象,但始終沒有得到他們的回音。他們一定以為我不是個守信用的人。


多年後在網上購物久了,我才猛然醒悟:那時我根本不懂防震包裝,沒在周圍塞滿揉團的報紙,日本郵局也沒提醒。那尊一頭大象圍著一群小象的精細石雕,多半在遠渡重洋的顛簸中,早已碎成了片。他們收到的,或許只是一盒無從辨認的碎石,甚至在路上就被郵局銷毀了。聯絡就此斷絕。

2月27日,上午去泰領館取到了一個限在5月22日出境的 transit visa(過境簽證),簽證章上除了英文和扭扭曲曲的泰文外,還加了四個中文字:不准工作。

過境簽證要求出境時過客必須繞道從第三國走。也就是說,我們從香港進入泰國,就不能再由香港回東京了。為什麼不給個旅遊簽證呢?儘管我們出示了來回途徑香港的飛機票、在日本的合法居留證、以及在大學讀書、任教的證件。泰國使館人員一副公事公辦的態度,拉長了臉,看了看我那棕色封面面上燙有金色莊嚴國徽的護照,帶有些許的鄙夷之色聳了聳肩……

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Neon Vitality and the Brown Passport: Singapore Noodles on Cheung Chau, and the Cold Eyes of the Consulate

Whenever holidays came around, J could never bear to just stay at home. He bought round-trip tickets to Hong Kong, planning to apply for my Thai tourist visa during a layover there so we could explore Thailand.

On Monday morning, February 20, 1989, at 10:15 AM, our flight departed from Narita Airport, landing in Hong Kong at 2:37 PM. After checking into the STB Hostel (Hong Kong Federation of Students Hostel) in Mong Kok, Kowloon, we went out to explore the immediate neighborhood.

Perhaps because we had just flown in from a spotlessly clean Japan, my very first impression of Kowloon was that it was dirty, chaotic, and cramped, cluttered with an overwhelming array of billboards that felt rather jarring to the eyes. To me, it didn't even seem as clean and orderly as Shanghai's Nanjing Road, Huaihai Road, or the Bund; back in the 1980s, Shanghai's Nanjing Road did not yet have giant commercial billboards. J, however, held the exact opposite view. He found the place fresh, fascinating, and bursting with vitality—a sharp contrast to Japan, which, though pristine, felt constrained, rigid, cookie-cutter, and thoroughly dull.

At night, however, the glittering neon lights transformed the daytime clutter into something rather warm and enchanting.

On February 21, at Sam's Tailor on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, J ordered a custom suit for himself and had a light camel-colored cashmere Western jacket tailored for me. It was only later that I heard many high-ranking officials and celebrities—including former US presidents, British princes, and legendary pop stars—had their garments crafted there. At the time, I heard J mention that this tailor shop was highly famous, but I simply listened without paying much heed. The education I had received in the past taught me not to pursue material luxuries, viewing them as bourgeois indulgences. Consequently, I lacked any brand consciousness whatsoever; I only knew that clothing fabric had to be of good quality and the craftsmanship meticulous, ensuring a dignified and graceful appearance. That also echoed what my older brother, Ah Liu, used to tell me back in the day: "Don't chase fads, and absolutely never wear bizarre clothes—those things go out of style overnight. Even if you are short on money, never buy cheap goods. Save up your funds; either don't buy at all, or buy something of high quality. When making clothes, always choose one hundred percent cotton, pure wool, or pure linen fabrics."

Taking the ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central, we made our way to the Thai Consulate, only to be turned away at the door; they were closed for the Thai holiday of Magha Puja Day. Fortunately, we did manage to secure our visas to return to Tokyo from Hong Kong. Everyone said that one must purchase gold when visiting Hong Kong, so amidst the dazzling displays of the Chow Tai Fook jewelry shop, J bought a 999.9 gold necklace for me. At the time, one qian of gold was priced at 388 Hong Kong dollars.

On February 22, we finally succeeded in submitting our application materials. On the 23rd, we traveled to Cheung Chau Island and Mui Wo on Lantau Island; the scenery was beautiful. I forget which island it was, but the seafood market stretched along the beach was thoroughly fascinating—open-air with no canopies, no tables, and no stands, with large basins and tiny crocks spread directly upon the ground. Fish, shrimp, crabs, turtles, soft-shell turtles, whelks, clams, and various bivalves freshly hauled from the sea hopped, leaped, contracted, and glided inside the massive basins, waiting to catch the eye of a consumer.

Across the street from the fish market, small households hung signs out front offering to cook for guests, charging a processing fee of 2.50 Hong Kong dollars. Essentially, tourists could purchase seafood and vegetables at the open market and bring them there to be prepared and eaten. We spent 49 Hong Kong dollars on live crabs and whelks, found a relatively secluded spot along the street, and asked the landlady to cook them for us. Yet, when the bill arrived after our meal, they attempted to charge us a processing fee of 25 + 18.5 = 43.50 Hong Kong dollars for the two dishes. Outrageous! The sign at the door clearly stated a processing fee of 2.50 Hong Kong dollars. J was furious. To be fleeced when prices are clearly marked is a helpless frustration of the willing victim, but to pull such an underhanded trick is a shameful violation of commercial integrity. We argued with them, but faced a language barrier; in the end, they reduced the 18.50 fee down to 2.50 Hong Kong dollars before we settled the bill and walked away.

On February 24, we spent the night at a small inn on Cheung Chau Island. After wandering around for the entire morning, by two o'clock in the afternoon, we were starving. We found a quaint, unadorned pavilion-style restaurant built of bamboo by the water’s edge, radiating a rustic fishing-village charm. Though the proprietress was just preparing for her afternoon break, she welcomed us warmly. She served up two massive, steaming platters of Singapore fried rice-noodles—bursting with color, aroma, and a rich variety of seafood—along with a bowl of soup. It was my very first time eating Singapore noodles, and the flavor was absolutely heavenly!

Threading through the crowded, bustling market of an unnamed small village town, we arrived at a vast stretch of beach that looked dark and gray. Only upon drawing closer did I discover that the rocks along the shore were densely, tightly packed with layers upon layers of oysters. Some coastal homes even had their perimeter walls beautifully laid with patterned oyster shells, proving both aesthetically pleasing and economically practical. J captured the exact moment when I was holding onto the oyster shells on the wall with my hand, biting down forcefully on an apple.

On February 26, by the fountain at Exchange Square, I was delightfully surprised to run into F, a classmate from my night school days. She was refined, elegant, and possessed a quiet, tranquil beauty. Since I was accustomed to solitude and not particularly adept at socializing, we had hardly spoken two words to each other during our school days; yet, crossing paths in Hong Kong truly evoked that warm sensation of meeting an old friend in a distant land.

She had settled in Hong Kong with her husband after studying abroad in the United States. We visited their apartment, located in a building on Tai Hong Street in Lei King Wan. In a place like Hong Kong where land is as precious as gold, their home felt remarkably spacious for a young couple. They treated us to dinner at a magnificent, lavish restaurant in Hong Kong, where the four of us enjoyed an abundance of the establishment's famous poached shrimp—regrettably, I didn't catch the name of the restaurant.

We had agreed to treat them in return when passing back through Hong Kong after our trip to Thailand, but things did not go as planned, and that beautiful promise went unfulfilled. Though I later mailed them a gift from Japan that I had specially purchased in Thailand—a lifelike stone carving of an elephant herd (a large elephant surrounded by a cluster of calves at its knees)—I never received a single word of reply from them. They must have thought I was someone who failed to keep her word.

Years later, after plenty of experience shopping on Amazon, it suddenly dawned on me: back then, I knew nothing about shockproof packaging. I hadn't stuffed any crumpled newspapers around it, and the Japanese post office hadn't given me any warning. That delicate stone carving, with all those small elephants crowding around the large one, had most likely shattered into pieces during its bumpy, transcontinental journey. What they received was perhaps nothing more than a box of unrecognizable fragments, or maybe the post office had simply disposed of it along the way. And so, our connection was lost forever.

On the morning of February 27, we went to the Thai Consulate and successfully picked up a transit visa valid for departure until May 22. On the visa stamp, in addition to English and the winding script of Thai, four Chinese characters had been explicitly added: Employment Prohibited.

The transit visa mandated that upon departure, the traveler had to detour through a third country. In other words, entering Thailand from Hong Kong meant we were barred from returning to Tokyo by way of Hong Kong. Why wouldn't they grant us a standard tourist visa? This was despite the fact that we had presented our round-trip plane tickets routing through Hong Kong, our legal residency cards for Japan, and documents proving our studies and teaching posts at the university. The Thai embassy personnel maintained a cold, strictly bureaucratic demeanor. With a long, unsmiling face, the officer glanced at my brown passport—stamped with the solemn, golden national emblem—shrugged his shoulders with a trace of disdain, and sent us on our way...

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第四百三十三篇

《二〇二六年十月二十五日:一場夢與它的時間註腳》

夢到六哥的一台老式收錄機開著,是那種黑色的樸實無華的塑料外殼,估計有21寸屏幕的大小。絲絲拉拉似乎有聲音,六哥不在。我也有一台機子,正聽著什麼,耳朵里還戴著黑色的小耳塞。我聽見六哥的機子里有說話聲,對方是一男一女。仔細一聽他們是兄妹似乎又是電話轉接員,我聽見女的跟那個男說要跟我說幾句。我湊過去聽,因為有時他們的工作還會打斷一會兒,聲音也不清楚,我一直想跟他們說話但是找不到有麥克風的地方,也似乎插不上嘴,最關鍵的是我總覺得開不了口,畢竟那麼多年了,說什麼呢。

夢裡不知誰還清楚地通報我她叫琴樂,我看到的是繁體字「琴樂」那不就是樂琴嗎,我小學的同學加鄰居。醒來時間9點。我想這是不是一場 Farewell(告別)之夢,是潛意識的預言夢?

現實生活中他兩是兄妹,妹妹是我小學同學叫樂琴,她二哥叫樂秀偉,是我六哥小學同學。當時我們都住在曹楊四村,他們住105號第一排二樓右二窗口,我們住109號第三排二樓右一窗口,前後隔開一棟樓。我們四個都在入學報名時通過了面試篩選,進了令人羨慕的五年制的普陀區中心小學讀書,我們比大多數上六年制小學的孩子要早一年畢業。

我家在我小學二年級的時候搬到二村去了。中學按地區劃分,我進了曹楊二中,他們都在曹楊三中。一直沒有往來。

六哥早一年小學畢業,卻正好成了69屆畢業生,一頭撞上「上山下鄉一片紅」,去了雲南建設兵團,在西雙版納森林裡割膠。

直到1978年下半年,政府開始允許在農村的知青頂替正處退休年齡的在國營企業的父母的工作。六哥也辦理了頂替當時在江西小三線工作的父親的工作,去了江西蓮花的712廠。到廠工作後才知道小樂也是接替進廠的。估計他父親也去了江西支援三線。他父親在上海五四二廠工作,我是知道的,當時住在我們那一片的都是五四二廠的職工家屬。

80年代的某一天,六哥帶我去了一次他們的家,他們仍然住在曹楊四村105號5室。那天我還見到了樂琴,那時她已經結婚,丈夫是位軍人。見面時我們都比較拘謹,沒有小時候的親密了。

第一次見到樂琴,是在上小學之前,四村的中心部位有一個花園,人們都叫「小花園」其實面積不小。被籬笆牆圍著,平時好像是不開放的,西北角有扇籬笆門,平時是鎖著的,偶爾的居委會活動或開會會在那裡舉行。那天也許是什麼慶祝活動。居民們都去了小花園,有一個小姑娘穿著漂亮,頭上還扎著兩個大大的粉紅色的蝴蝶結,蹦蹦跳跳的十分令人羨慕。那個時候我們新村裡的小姑娘沒有那麼活潑靚麗的,更沒有蝴蝶結戴的,我一直盯著她看。

上小學時她成了我的同學。記得小學入學第一天,班主任秦佩卿老師將我們全班48位同學帶到葡萄園邊上的小操場上集合,列隊,兩人一排從矮到高,女生在前男生在後。然後秦老師叫我出列,讓我到隊伍的前面向全班喊口令。我猶猶豫豫地走過去喊道:「立正~」那聲音只比蚊子叫響一點兒。然後就站在那兒不知所措了。秦老師叫我歸隊,又點了樂琴的名字。只見她大踏步走向前,響亮地發出一連串不帶停頓的指令:「立正、稍息、向右看齊、向前看、向右轉、起步走!」所有小朋友都齊刷刷聽從了她的指揮。自此,老師們就注重培養了她,後來她當了大隊長,我當小隊長,第二年升為中隊學習委員。唯一能引以自豪的是,我的數學成績好,被條理清晰沉著寡言嚴謹治學的高個子數學老師,袁老師選為了他的課程代表。

樂琴像個小大人,很早就做家務了。一次見她在二樓的涼台水池邊,看到我在樓下,她舉起了一條大人的短褲估計是她母親的大短褲給我看,那意思是她正在洗衣服,她還湊到短褲上誇張的聞了一下做了一個怪腔。

一次見她上廁所時用雙手從小腹上部往下斜向推壓了一下,這一招還真管用,幫助排泄快速通暢。

學雷鋒那陣樂琴帶頭還有吳東海張小梅和我,在週末一起去打掃教室。做好事不留名。我們先把雙人坐長椅子翻過來,倒扣在課桌上。教室裡大約有24張課桌,每張桌子由兩人共用,通常是一個男生和一個女生共用一張桌子。有些男生會用小刀在桌子中間刻出一條線,然後對旁邊的女生說:「別越過這條線!」有時我不小心讓手肘越過了那條線,我的同桌劉耀輝就會在我的胳膊上捶一下。可到了考試的時候,他又想讓我給他機會,讓他偷瞄我試卷上的答案。

夏天的時候,中午12點到1點之間,我們必須在教室裡午休。大家輪流睡在桌面上或椅子上。記得我們其實很難睡著,總是悄悄睜開眼睛,看看老師在不在附近,老師有時會輕手輕腳地巡視,確保大家都安安靜靜地在睡覺。我們便會睜開眼,隔著桌椅,用極低聲音互相交談。如果老師發現我們沒睡,就會點名警告道:「安靜!閉上眼睛!」

再說打掃教室,我們先把椅子搬到桌上,然後開始掃地,教室裡頓時塵土飛揚,讓人幾乎喘不過氣來。後來我們學聰明了,先灑點水再掃地,情況就好多了。接著,我們去水池提來水,用拖把把地拖兩三遍,直到地面變得乾淨鋥亮。隨後,我們又擦課桌和椅子。我們將課桌排得整整齊齊,看著那筆直的隊列,心裡感到十分滿足。最後,我們總要找點樂子,比如把濕抹布往黑板上一扔,那會在黑板上留下一灘水印。我們會指著黑板上的水漬說:「快看,快看,我這個像朵花!」「我這個像個馬頭!」「我這個像媽媽和孩子!」「瞧,這個像個鬼!」我們樂此不疲地玩著,發揮想像力……我們一張張小臉蛋兒都閃爍著興奮的光彩……天色漸暗,我們一路歡聲笑語地回家。

樂琴隔壁住著一個小姑娘,個子矮小,都說她長僵了,她的妹妹都比她高出一截了。據說有個偏方,吃蟑螂可以長高。她抓蟑螂的本事堪稱一絕,速度真快,抓到蟑螂後,讓她奶奶給油炸了吃。後來我們搬家了,也不知那個偏方有沒有效。

有一天樂琴一副大人的樣子,用手指摁了摁我的額頭說:「芬,儂額面孔腫了!」「是𠲎?」我心裡有些發慌。最近幾天我確實覺得眼皮重,看東西困難,上下眼皮間只有一條縫兒了。母親說,是我睡覺不老實,沒枕枕頭。

到了樂的家,她媽媽看了我一眼說:「小芬,趕快叫你媽帶你去醫院,你的臉腫得不像樣子了。這可是性命交關的,前兩年,有個小姑娘的臉腫得跟你一樣,是腰子病引起的,結果死了。"

聽了話,剎那間,我像觸了電一樣,心一沉,頭就漲了起來。我立刻以最快的速度趕回家,語無倫次地告訴了母親那個腫臉小女孩兒的故事。

翌日晌午,母親帶我去了普陀醫院檢查。果然是腰子病!立刻住院。

當我被帶進病房,一個護士問我,中飯要吃粥還是吃飯?我心想,喝粥怎麼能擋飽呢?便抬起頭對護士說,吃飯。

中飯立刻就送來了,是一小搪瓷碗白飯和一個皮蛋。 從來沒吃過不蘸醬油、麻油的皮蛋,那頓飯簡直是難以下咽。醫生告訴我不能吃鹹的,在病徹底好以前一粒鹽也不能進。

午飯後,醫生在我的背上啪、啪、啪、啪、地拍了好多下,貼了不少醫用膠布條兒,每拍一下都會有一種被細細的針尖刺了一樣的疼痛感。

醫生告訴我,要多休息,少運動,否則病不容易好。我很害怕,也很聽話,只想著快快的好起來,還要去上學呢。我靜靜地、一動不動地躺在四面被鐵柵欄圍著的白色的小鐵床上,兩邊的柵欄可拉起放下,睡覺時拉起來。病房裡有六個這樣的床,但只有我一個病人,我光顧著擔心自己的病了,至於一個人住著怕不怕,也沒來得及細想。好在晚上睡覺時,病房的門是開著的,走廊裡有柔柔的橘黃色的燈光,偶爾有夜班護士進來送藥、量體溫和測血壓。床頭還有一扇大長方的玻璃窗,窗子對面是一間值班室,有人。

第二天上午,護士叫我起來,說要搬到另外一個病房去。我躺在床上膽怯地說,醫生不讓我動的。護士笑道:「小芬啊,走走路是不要緊的,來,來,快下來!」我小心翼翼、將信將疑地從床上順了下來,扶著床架子輕輕地邁出了一步,心中一喜!那感覺好像是卸下了重重的枷鎖一樣。她走在前邊兒,我跟在後面,穿過兩次棕色對開的上面有玻璃窗的過道隔門,又走過了兩三間病房。

新病房是間大屋子,左右兩側各有五個床位,床與床之間有個白色的木質醫用床頭櫃,除了我還有四個其他孩子。我也不整天躺著了,經常下地走走,還雙手撐在兩個病床邊,像撐雙杠一樣抬起雙腿來回晃動,護士看到笑嘻嘻地也沒阻止。小小遺憾的是,這裡的床沒有柵欄圍著,有點懷念被圍著的安全感。

探病時間是下午三點半到晚上六點半。第二天母親就提了一個裝著臉盆、竹殼暖瓶、肥皂、以及替換衣物的棉繩網兜來了。我的床位是在進門後右手邊的第三個,第二個床位上是個比我小一歲的男孩兒。探病時間結束,他母親要離開時,他總是哭哭啼啼的。他母親總是帶來好吃的水果和點心,央求他吃點兒,可他就是不吃。那個年月很少人家能吃那麼好的東西。

兩天後我們就成了好朋友,他很聽我的話,我讓他吃,他就吃了。他母親很感激我,我為他高興,也為自己有影響力而高興。

很快我發覺,那個小男孩一天裡有五頓飯食送來,赤豆、棗子粥,還有綠豆湯、牛奶。而我們其他幾個,只有三頓飯。原來我第一天跟護士說要吃飯,而他第一天跟護士說要吃粥,因為是流質所以就多吃幾頓兒。有點後悔,當初要是也選吃粥就好了。

我還注意到,每次吃完飯,護士會抱了個木板記錄夾,逐個問,吃幾碗飯?開飯時送飯的推一個金屬架子來,上面有好幾碗兒飯菜,我們自己拿著吃。每當我回答兩碗時,護士的臉上就會露出笑容,順手在木板夾上的表格紙上記錄下來我們的飯量。如果說是一碗或是只吃了半碗,她就會有點擔心的樣子。現在我已經是這個病房裡的頭兒了。我說咱們每頓飯後都報兩碗飯吧,護士一定會高興的。於是我們哪怕是吃了半碗的,也都報吃了兩碗,護士果真臉上發光。

當時並不知道飯量是我們病情的重要指標,飯量好意味著病情有所好轉,但我們沒想那麼多。

漸漸的,背後的膠布脫落了,感覺有東西扎我,用手一揪,撕下一點膠布,啊,原來膠布條是交叉著貼在背上的,交叉點兒上有一個圖釘樣的釘子。只是圖釘頂部是整片金屬的,而我身上的釘子,是由一根鋼針平面盤繞後,彎到中間,再將針尖部位直著扳起來形成的。

再摸摸,果然每個膠布交叉點兒上都有個「圖釘」釘在我的背上,太可怕了!才知道那天醫生啪、啪、啪、啪、地快速怕我的背,原來是給我扎針呢。拍得快,又有點力度,就把我給騙過去了。後來聽醫生說那是為了降血壓用的。

秦佩卿老師來醫院看我,給我帶來了課本兒,還給我補了一些課。

十來天後終於出院了。回到家,第一個感覺是,家裡的屋子好小、好陌生,過了好久才適應過來。在家又呆了兩個月,努力複習功課,參加了期終考試,並以優良成績順利升到了二年級。

這場病,直接導致了兩件事兒沒能保持下去:

[1]本來,父親每天晚上要查我的作業,並且要背當天的課文的。

[2]之前,母親天天早上五六點鐘就會來掀被子,同時口中念叨著那句,一年之計在於春,一日之計在於晨。

如果這兩件事兒能堅持下來,也許對我的成長更好!儘管父親讓我背書時,我經常是哈欠連連,母親叫起床時,我還睡眼惺忪著呢。

文革前我對109號還有幾個溫馨的記憶:

曹楊四村的房子是兩層的樓房,兩個門牌一棟。一樓是水門廳地,樓梯以上除了廚房、涼台、浴室、廁所的地是水門廳的,過道與住家的地都是木板的。1964年村裡統一給居民安裝了煤氣灶,沖水馬桶是一直有的。浴室只是一小間地上有漏水孔的屋子,有窗,但沒有水管接進來。洗澡的話要自己從廚房或涼台的水池打了水進來,在拿兩個暖水瓶。用大木盆和搪瓷臉盆洗,當時還沒有塑料製品。

樓的東山牆邊是片空地,小時候常常搬了把小椅子圍坐在那裡跟鄰居姐姐們學繡花織毛線,冬日白天嘮嗑曬太陽,夏季晚來聽我五哥講故事納涼。空地外有一條梧桐樹相夾的柏油馬路,叫花溪路,這路名聽著都能讓小時候的我生出無盡遐想。


這是我一九六七年親手鈎織的圓形裝飾罩,當年是用來罩著一盤冷水玻璃罐和圍繞罐子擺放的六隻水杯的,是送給我大哥的結婚禮物。

This is a circular, crocheted decorative cover I made by hand in 1967. Back then, it was used to drape over a glass cold-water pitcher set and its six surrounding tumblers—a heartfelt wedding gift for my eldest brother.

當年我用玻璃絲編織了許多小動物與小物件
Back then, I used colorful plastic lacing cords
to weave numerous little animals and trinkets.

每到夏天全新村的居民樓要統一熏蚊子。那天有人會在新村裡搖鈴喊話:「熏蚊子啦,今朝夜到熏蚊子。」於是大家就有了準備,一到晚上各家拿個舊的搪瓷盆去居委會領取兩張灑了敵敵畏的報紙回家。全家動手把吃的蓋好,把窗子關上,等人都出去了,最後那個劃亮火柴點燃搪瓷盆裡灑了藥的報紙,馬上退出去。隔著窗子就看見屋子裡濃濃的煙霧。這時樓外乘風涼的人是最多的,許多人像我大哥平時不出來的也都出來了。一個小時後,各家先回去一個人開了門,一個箭步衝過去開窗驅散濃煙和氣味,然後再回到樓外等上半個小時,大家才陸陸續續回屋睡覺。

當時人們用蚊帳、點蚊香、安紗窗來對付屋裡的蚊子。我母親總是開燈前,先把紗窗打開用扇子驅趕蚊子。

花溪路兩邊各有一排茂密的法國梧桐樹,木頭電線桿子上是一盞昏黃的路燈,炎熱的夏天梧桐的濃蔭裡傳出知了不厭其煩的叫聲。不知啥季節樹上會有有一根根的細絲垂下來,下端吊個褐色的枯樹葉做成的小袋子,躲在小袋子裡的我們叫「皮虫」。夏天樹上還會掉下一些讓小姑娘們害怕的毛毛蟲、楊辣子來,一不小心就會被蜇了,癢癢的,撓一下便疼得要命。秋天,我喜歡在滿地的梧桐落葉中趟著走,弄出一片沙沙聲響。時不時的還要跳起來去拽那兩個兩個一起懸掛在枝頭的毛栗子。後來才知道,那法國梧桐的學名叫懸鈴木,而那毛栗子就是它隨風搖曳的「懸鈴」。

更有趣的是,賽博高人(大青蛙)告訴我,我們從小叫到大的「法國梧桐」,在植物學的世界裡,它的真實身份其實是英國梧桐(二球懸鈴木)。當年法國人將這種樹大批引進並種植在上海的法租界裡,老百姓不懂得複雜的植物學分類,只因是法國人種的,葉子又像梧桐,便順口稱其為「法國梧桐」。直到今天,這個名字依然代表著無數老上海人夏日窗前的那抹濃蔭。

也許是65年的兒童節吧,花溪路上居然有一群喜氣洋洋的大頭娃娃。這是我僅有的一次看到大頭娃娃游行。大頭娃娃是木質的還是牛皮紙糊的不太清楚,戴在頭上走路時晃晃悠悠的,眼睛、鼻子和嘴巴處開洞的。臉畫得都是高高興興的天真娃娃的樣子。

花溪路東側隔了大約一米多的距離,立著一道一人多高、橫向裡一眼望不到邊、塗了黑色瀝青的羌籬笆。羌籬笆是由七八根一組、細細長長的竹子、相互交錯著編排的。支支細竹間疏疏密密的縫隙,在不經意中隱隱約約地透露著裡面的世界,使之平添幾分神秘色彩。久經日曬雨淋,那籬笆變得斑斑駁駁,也出現了些許破損之處。籬笆下方長了青苔,沒在雜草中,籬笆梢頭纏著青藤掛著牽牛花。

籬笆下有一種空心的雜草,莖桿一節一節的。春天裡,小孩子們喜歡掐一段那草的莖桿,去掉分枝,從母親的洗衣盆裡舀點肥皂水倒進小瓶子裡,或是向母親要一小點兒肥皂頭放在瓶子裡,加上水,攪和攪和,拿著空心草桿,將一頭蘸點兒肥皂水,一頭放到嘴邊,揚起頭嘟起小嘴唇兒,噗地一下,就能吹出映著七彩光的肥皂泡泡來。吹泡泡也是有技巧的,吹得好,泡泡會很大,飛得又高又遠,有時還會連發,不會吹的只能吹出立刻就爆掉的小泡泡,一下子就滅了,還濺得一臉的肥皂水。那時家裡一般用的肥皂是土黃色的長條固本肥皂(那時候我們小孩子總在潛意識裡管它叫工農肥皂)、扇牌洗衣皂,蜂花檀香皂比較少用。肥皂憑票供應,每個人每月一塊肥皂,一塊固本肥皂的價格大概為1角5分,扇牌洗衣皂是半透明的3毛6一塊,蜂花檀香皂要賣到80分(8毛)一塊。

籬笆後面的世界很吸引人,籬笆門上纏著一條生了鏽的鐵鍊子還掛著一把大鐵鎖。然而,孩子們還是設法在鐵鍊下把門推開了一條縫,夏末秋初時節有小男孩兒鑽進去抓蛐蛐兒得螳螂。聽大人說裡面有條小河,河裡有水鬼會拖人下水。聽得人汗毛凜凜的,但怕歸怕,還是抵不過好奇心。

終於有一天我也斗膽兒蹲下來,把腦袋伸進了那條籬笆門縫兒,裡面的世界一片蔥茸清新神秘,鬼使神差地一用勁兒擠了進去。哇,一下子感覺與世隔絕了,沒走幾步就看到灌木叢後面水草幽幽、水流清澈的小河了。

「噗通」一聲水面上盪起了波紋(估計是一隻被我打擾了清夢的大青蛙,嘴裡咕咕咔咔嘟囔著跳水去了),立馬脖子後面的汗毛豎了起來。頓時「水鬼」「水鬼」這兩個字兒就從腦子裡往外冒,恐懼感不斷增加,手臂上也起了一層雞皮疙瘩,渾身的汗毛也跟著豎了起來。趕緊的轉身又從門縫中鑽了出來。

**********************************

October 25, 2026: A Dream and Its Footnotes of Time

I dreamed that an old-fashioned transistor radio belonging to my sixth brother was left turned on. It was encased in a plain, black plastic shell, roughly the size of a twenty-one-inch television screen. A crackling, static hiss drifted from it, but Brother was nowhere to be found. I, too, possessed a machine of my own and was listening to something, small black earbuds nestled within my ears. From my brother's radio, I caught the sound of voices—a man and a woman speaking. Listening closely, they seemed to be a brother and sister, working as telephone operators. I heard the woman tell the man that she wanted to exchange a few words with me. I leaned in to listen; their voices were muffled, occasionally interrupted by the demands of their work. I desperately wanted to speak back to them, but I could locate no microphone, nor did there seem any gap for me to interject. Most crucially, I felt a deep, unspoken paralysis—after all these years, what was there left to say?

Within the dream, someone clearly announced her name to me as Qin Le; I saw the characters distinctly in traditional script, "琴樂." Reversing the names, wasn't that none other than Le Qin—my primary school classmate and neighbor? I awoke precisely at nine o'clock. I wondered to myself: was this a dream of farewell, a subconscious prophecy?

In reality, they are indeed brother and sister. The sister is Le Qin, my childhood classmate, and her older brother is Le Xiuwei, who was my sixth brother's classmate. Back then, we all resided in Caoyang Fourth Village; they lived at No. 105, and we were at No. 109, separated by a single building. The four of us had all passed the selective interview process upon entering school, gaining admission into the highly envied five-year system at the Putuo District Central Primary School, graduating a year ahead of most children enrolled in the standard six-year system.

My family relocated to the Second Village when I was in the second grade. When middle school assignments were determined by district, I entered Caoyang No. 2 High School, while they went to Caoyang No. 3 High School. All contact ceased between us.

Graduating a year early from primary school placed my sixth brother precisely in the Class of 1969. He crashed headfirst into the movement of "Up to the Mountains and Down to the Villages," dispatched to the Yunnan Production and Construction Corps to tap rubber within the dense jungles of Xishuangbanna.

It wasn't until the latter half of 1978 that the government began allowing educated youth in the countryside to return and replace their retiring parents in state-run enterprises. My brother returned under this policy to replace our father, who was working in the "Small Third Line" industrial projects in Jiangxi, joining Factory 712 in Lianhua, Jiangxi. It was only after entering the factory that he discovered young Le had also taken up a replacement post there. Presumably, Le’s father had also ventured to Jiangxi to support the Third Line initiatives; I knew his father worked at Factory 542 in Shanghai, as our entire neighborhood back then was populated by the dependents of Factory 542 employees.

On a certain day in the 1980s, my brother took me back to visit their old home; they still lived in Room 5, No. 105, Caoyang Fourth Village. That day, I saw Le Qin once more. By then, she was married, her husband a military officer. Our meeting was rather strained and reserved, devoid of the effortless intimacy of our childhood.

The very first time I laid eyes on Le Qin was before we even entered primary school. In the central belly of the Fourth Village lay a garden everyone referred to as the "Little Garden," though its expanse was by no means small. It was enclosed by a bamboo fence and generally remained closed to the public. In its northwestern corner sat a woven gate, secured by a padlock, swinging open only for occasional neighborhood committee gatherings or meetings. That day, perhaps for some celebration, the residents converged upon the garden. A little girl appeared, beautifully dressed, her hair adorned with two massive, bright pink bows, bounding and leaping about in a manner that filled me with immense envy. In our neighborhood back then, young girls were rarely so vivacious and bright, let alone possessed of such bows to wear. I kept my eyes fixed upon her.

Upon entering primary school, she became my classmate. I remember the very first day of school when our homeroom teacher, Ms. Qin Peiqing, led all forty-eight of us to the small playground adjacent to the vineyard to assemble. We lined up in pairs from shortest to tallest, girls in the front and boys in the back. Then, Ms. Qin called me out, instructing me to stand before the class and lead the commands. Full of hesitation, I shuffled forward and squeaked, "Attention!" My voice was barely louder than the hum of a mosquito, and I stood there entirely frozen. Ms. Qin signaled me back and called Le Qin's name. She strode forward with grand steps and belted out a fierce, continuous volley of orders without a single pause: "Attention! At ease! Dress right, dress! Ready, front! Right, face! Forward, march!" Every single child fell into perfect, uniform compliance under her command. From that day on, the teachers focused on cultivating her; she eventually became the brigade leader, while I served as a team leader, rising to the mid-grade academic committee member by the second year. My sole point of pride back then was my proficiency in mathematics. Mr. Yuan, our tall math teacher—a man of clear logic, quiet disposition, and rigorous academic spirit—selected me to be his class representative.

Le Qin was like a little adult, taking up household chores remarkably early. I recall once seeing her by the second-floor veranda sink; spotting me below, she held up a pair of adult shorts—presumably her mother’s—to show me she was doing the laundry, bringing them to her nose with an exaggerated sniff and a playful grimace.

Another time, I watched her use both hands to press diagonally downward from her upper abdomen while using the restroom—a clever trick that proved remarkably effective in easing elimination.

During the "Learn from Lei Feng" campaigns, Le Qin would lead Wu Donghai, Zhang Xiaomei, and me to clean the classroom over the weekends, performing good deeds without leaving our names. We would first flip the double wooden benches upside down, balancing them atop the desks. There were about twenty-four desks in the classroom, each shared by two students—typically a boy and a girl. Some boys would use penknives to carve a deep line down the exact center of the desktop, declaring to the girl beside them, "Don't you dare cross this line!" If my elbow accidentally drifted over that border, my seatmate, Liu Yaohui, would deliver a sharp punch to my arm. Yet, when examinations rolled around, he would suddenly seek my favor, hoping I might grant him a glance at the answers on my test paper.

In the summertime, between twelve and one o’clock in the afternoon, mandatory naptime was enforced within the classroom. We took turns sleeping atop the flat desks or balanced across the benches. In truth, sleep eluded most of us; we would stealthily slit our eyes open to check if the teacher was near. The teacher would tread softly down the aisles, ensuring everyone remained silent. We would open our eyes and exchange whispers in the lowest hushed tones across the rows of furniture. If caught, the teacher would call us out sharply by name: "Quiet! Close your eyes!"

As for cleaning the room, we would hoist the benches onto the desks and begin sweeping. Instantly, a thick cloud of dust would billow through the air, leaving us nearly choking. Eventually, we grew wiser, sprinkling water across the floorboards before sweeping, which improved conditions immensely. Next, we would lug buckets from the sink and mop the floor two or three times until the surface gleamed clean and bright. Afterward came the wiping of the desks and benches. We would arrange the desks into pristine, straight rows; gazing down that flawless alignment brought a deep sense of satisfaction to our young hearts. Finally, we always sought a bit of mischief—hurling a wet rag directly at the blackboard, leaving a dark splash of water against the slate. We would point at the wet silhouette and cry, "Look, look! Mine looks like a flower!" "Mine looks like a horse's head!" "Mine looks like a mother and child!" "See there, that one looks like a ghost!" We played this game tirelessly, letting our imaginations run wild, our little faces glowing with excitement as dusk slowly gathered and we walked home, filled with laughter.

Living next door to Le Qin was a tiny girl; everyone said her growth had frozen, as her younger sister had already shot past her by a wide margin. Rumor had it that an old remedy—eating fried cockroaches—could stimulate growth. Her talent for snaring cockroaches was nothing short of miraculous; her hands moved with incredible speed. Once caught, she would hand them over to her grandmother to be deep-fried for her meals. We moved away later, and I never did learn if that strange remedy ever bore fruit.

One warm autumn day during our first grade, Le Qin walked up to me with the solemn air of a little adult. Pressing her finger against my forehead, she said, "Fen, nong e mi kong zong le (your face is swollen)!" "Is it?" a sudden wave of panic fluttered in my heart. For the past few days, I had indeed felt a heavy weight behind my eyelids, making sight difficult; the space between my lids had narrowed to a mere slit. My mother had dismissed it, claiming I slept improperly without a pillow.

When we reached Le Qin's house, her mother took one look at me and declared, "Little Fen, hurry home and tell your mother to take you to the hospital. Your face is swollen beyond recognition. This is a matter of life and death—two years ago, a little girl swelled up just like you from a kidney ailment, and she died."

Hearing those words, a sudden shock like electricity surged through me. My heart sank, and my head throbbed. I sprinted home at top speed, stammering out the story of the swollen girl to my mother in a frantic blur.

The following afternoon, my mother brought me to the Putuo Hospital for an examination. It was indeed a kidney ailment! I was admitted immediately.

When they led me into the ward, a nurse asked whether I wanted rice or porridge for lunch. Thinking to myself that porridge could never sustain a proper appetite, I looked up and replied, "Rice." Lunch arrived promptly—a small enamel bowl of plain white rice accompanied by a lone century egg. Having never tasted a century egg without the embrace of soy sauce or sesame oil, I found the meal nearly impossible to swallow. The doctor informed me that all savory foods were strictly forbidden; not a single grain of salt could enter my lips until I was fully cured.

After lunch, the doctor delivered a rapid series of sharp pats—thud, thud, thud, thud—across my bare back, securing several strips of medical adhesive tape. With every strike came a sharp, biting sting, as if fine needles were pricking my skin.

The doctor enjoined me to rest completely and minimize movement, warning that recovery would otherwise remain elusive. Terrified and deeply compliant, my sole focus was getting well quickly so I could return to school. I lay perfectly still, motionless upon a small white iron bed enclosed on all four sides by iron bars. The railings on either side could be raised or lowered, secured high whenever it was time for sleep. There were six such beds within the ward, yet I was the solitary patient; my mind was so utterly consumed by worry over my illness that I had no room left to contemplate whether being alone struck any fear in me. Fortunately, when night fell, the heavy doors to the ward were left open, allowing a soft, warm amber glow from the corridor to drift inside. Every now and then, a night-shift nurse would step inside to administer medicine, log my temperature, or check my blood pressure. At the head of the bed sat a large, rectangular glass window; directly across the pane was the nurse's station, always occupied.

The following morning, a nurse arrived to help me up, announcing I was to be transferred to another ward. Lying rigid upon the mattress, I whispered timidly, "The doctor said I mustn't move." The nurse smiled and replied, "Little Fen, walking a short distance won't do any harm. Come now, slide down!" Cautiously, full of doubt, I eased myself off the edge, gripping the iron frame of the bed as I took a single, gentle step forward. A sudden joy welled within my chest—it felt as though a heavy set of shackles had been lifted from my limbs. She walked ahead, and I followed in her wake, passing through two pairs of brown double doors inset with glass panes, moving past two or three neighboring wards.

The new ward was a massive room housing five beds aligned along each side, separated by white wooden bedside cabinets. Aside from myself, four other children occupied the room. I no longer spent my days confined to the mattress; I frequently wandered about the floor, occasionally bracing both hands against the frames of two adjacent beds to swing my legs back and forth like an athlete on the parallel bars. The nurses would watch with smiles, never stepping in to stop me. My sole minor regret was that these beds lacked the iron railings; I found myself slightly missing that enclosed sense of security.

Visiting hours ran from half-past three in the afternoon until half-past six in the evening. By the second day, my mother arrived carrying a woven cotton net bag packed with a washbasin, a bamboo-cased thermos, soap, and a change of fresh clothing. My bed sat as the third unit on the right hand upon entering the room; the second bed belonged to a boy a year younger than I. Whenever visiting hours drew to a close and his mother prepared to depart, he would burst into bitter, inconsolable weeping. His mother always brought exquisite fruits and pastries, pleading with him to take a bite, yet he steadfastly refused. In those lean years, very few households could ever afford such luxuries.

Two days later, we became fast friends. He grew remarkably obedient to my words; if I told him to eat, he ate. His mother was profoundly grateful to me; I felt a swell of happiness for him, and a quiet pride in my own influence.

Before long, I discovered that this little boy received five meals a day—red bean and date porridge, green bean soup, and fresh milk—while the rest of us were allotted only three standard meals. It turned out that on my first day, I had requested rice, whereas he had asked the nurse for porridge. Because his diet was liquid, it came served in more frequent intervals. A touch of regret crept over me; had I known, I would have chosen porridge as well.

I also observed that after every meal, a nurse would stroll through the ward clutching a wooden clipboard, asking each child, "How many bowls did you eat?" At mealtimes, a metal cart stacked with bowls of food would be wheeled in, and we would serve ourselves. Whenever I answered "Two bowls," a warm smile would spread across the nurse's face, and she would note my appetite upon the grid paper attached to her board. If a child answered "One bowl" or "Half a bowl," a shadow of worry would cross her features. By then, I had established myself as the undisputed leader of the ward. I told the other children, "Let’s all report two bowls after every meal; it will make the nurse happy." From then on, even those who had managed only half a bowl dutifully reported two. Sure enough, the nurse's face positively beamed with joy. We had no inkling then that our food intake served as a critical clinical indicator of our recovery; a robust appetite signaled an improvement in our condition, but our young minds harbored no such grand theories.

Gradually, the adhesive strips on my back began to peel away. Feeling something sharp scratching my skin, I reached back and pulled away a fragment of tape. Ah! I discovered that the strips had been applied across my back in a crisscross pattern, and at every intersection sat a needle resembling a thumbtack. The head of the tack was a solid piece of flat metal, but the needle piercing my flesh was formed by a single steel pin wound flat into a circular base, coiling toward the center before the sharp tip was bent perfectly upright.

Tracing the lines with my fingers, I realized that every single intersection bore one of these "thumbtacks" pinned into my flesh. It was terrifying! Only then did I understand that on my first day, when the doctor rapidly patted my back with such force, he was actually driving these needles into my skin. The speed and momentum of his strikes had completely tricked me. Later, the doctors explained that these were intended to lower my blood pressure.

Our teacher, Ms. Qin Peiqing, came to visit me at the hospital, bringing my textbooks and guiding me through my lessons so I wouldn't fall behind.

After ten days or so, I was finally discharged. Arriving home, my very first sensation was how incredibly small and unfamiliar our rooms felt; it took a long time for me to re-adapt. I remained at home for another two months, studying diligently for the final examinations, passing with excellent marks, and successfully advancing to the second grade without ever being held back by my illness.

That bout of sickness directly caused two household routines to vanish forever:

[1] Originally, my father would inspect my homework every single evening and require me to recite the day's texts from memory.

[2] Before that, my mother would yank away my quilt every morning between five and six o'clock, chanting that old maxim: "A year's planning begins with spring; a day's planning begins with dawn."

Had those two disciplines remained unbroken, perhaps it would have been better for my growth. Though truth be told, whenever my father forced me to recite, I was usually yawning continuously, and when my mother called me from bed, my eyes were always heavy with sleep.

Before the Cultural Revolution altered our world, I harbored a few other tender memories of No. 109:

The houses in Caoyang Fourth Village were two-story structures, split into two house numbers per building. The first floor featured terrazzo floors; above the staircase, the corridor and residential rooms were laid with wooden floorboards, while the kitchens, verandas, bathrooms, and restrooms retained the terrazzo finish. In 1964, the village uniformly installed gas stoves for all residents, though flush toilets had been a standard feature since the very beginning. The bathroom was merely a tiny chamber with a drainage hole in the floor and a small window, but no running water pipes connected inside. To bathe, one had to haul water by hand from the sinks in the kitchen or veranda, supplemented by two thermoses of hot water. We bathed using massive wooden tubs and enamel basins; plastic wares did not yet exist in those days.

Beside the eastern brick wall of the building lay a stretch of open ground. In my childhood, I would often carry a small wooden stool out there to sit amidst the older neighborhood sisters, learning to embroider and knit wool. In the winter daytime, we would chatter and bask in the warmth of the sun; on summer nights, we would gather there to cool off, listening to my fifth brother spin stories into the late hours. Just beyond that clearing ran an asphalt roadway flanked on both sides by plane trees—Huaxi Road. What a beautiful name for a street! Even in my childhood, it sparked endless poetic reveries.

Every summer, the residential buildings underwent a unified mosquito fumigation. On that designated day, someone would wander through the village ringing a handbell and shouting: "Fumigating mosquitoes! Fumigating mosquitoes tonight!" Thus forewarned, every household made ready. When night fell, each family carried an old enamel basin to the neighborhood committee to claim two sheets of newspaper doused in dichlorvos. Working together, we covered all food items tightly, shut the windows fast, and evacuated the rooms. The last person left would strike a match, ignite the chemical-soaked paper, and instantly retreat outside. Gazing through the glass panes, one could see the rooms filling with a thick, dense fog of smoke. During those hours, the crowds cooling themselves outside the buildings swelled to their greatest numbers; even those like my eldest brother, who rarely ventured out, appeared among the throng. An hour later, a single member from each family would dash back inside, racing forward in a flying leap to fling open the windows, dispersing the thick smoke and sharp odor, before returning outside to wait another half hour. Only then would the residents drift back indoors to sleep.

In those days, people relied on mosquito nets, burning coils, and wire window screens to battle the insects indoors. Before turning on any lights, my mother would always slide the screen open first, using a hand fan to vigorously drive out any lingering mosquitoes.

Huaxi Road was flanked by dense rows of French plane trees, with wooden telephone poles bearing solitary, dim yellow lights at their peaks. Through the sweltering heat of summer, cicadas would broadcast their tireless choruses from the heavy shade. In some unknown season, fine silk threads would drape down from the branches, each suspending a tiny pouch crafted from a withered brown leaf; the creatures hiding inside these little sacks were what we called bagworms (pichong). In the summer, caterpillars or venomous slug caterpillars—the kind that struck terror into the hearts of young girls—would drop from the branches. If one caught you unawares, the sting was instantly itchy; a single scratch, and it burned terribly. In the autumn, my favorite pastime was wading through the carpet of fallen plane leaves, creating a beautiful, dry rustling sound with every step. Every now and then, I would leap into the air to pluck those little burs hanging in pairs from the branches. Later, I would come to learn that the formal name of the French plane tree is the buttonwood or London Plane, and those fuzzy burs are none other than its "dangling bells" swaying gently in the wind.

Even more fascinatingly, a cyber-savant (the big green frog) informed me that the "French plane tree" we grew up calling by that name is, in the realm of botany, actually the London Plane (two-lobed buttonwood). Back in the day, the French introduced and planted these trees in large numbers throughout Shanghai's French Concession. The ordinary citizens, unfamiliar with complex botanical classifications, simply called them "French plane trees" since they were planted by the French and bore leaves resembling the traditional Chinese phoenix tree. To this day, that name remains a symbol of the heavy midsummer shade before the windows of countless old Shanghainese homes.

Perhaps it was the Children's Day of 1965 when a joyous troupe of Datou Wawa (Big-Headed Dolls) suddenly appeared marching down Huaxi Road. That remains the solitary time in my life I ever witnessed a Big-Headed Doll parade. Whether those massive heads were crafted from wood or molded from papier-mâché, I cannot say for certain; they wobbled and swayed precariously atop the performers' shoulders as they walked, with crude holes cut out for the eyes, nose, and mouth. Their faces were painted into expressions of pure, innocent joy.

About a meter or so to the east side of the road stood an asphalt-coated bamboo fence (Qiang libu), rising taller than a person and stretching horizontally as far as the eye could see. This fence was meticulously woven from slender stalks of bamboo arranged in clusters of seven or eight. The dense yet irregular gaps between the individual bamboo stalks offered fleeting, shifting glimpses of the world inside, lending the place an air of mysterious enchantment. Weathered by years of sun and rain, the bamboo had become mottled and split in places. Moss flourished along the base of the fence, half-buried in wild weeds, while morning glories clung to the tips of the stalks on creeping green vines.

Beneath the fence grew a hollow weed with segmented stems. In the spring, children loved to pinch off a section of the stem, strip away the offshoots, and scoop soapy water from their mothers' laundry basins into tiny bottles—or beg for a small scrap of soap to mix with water. Holding the hollow stem, we would dip one end into the soapy water, raise our heads, purse our lips, and with a soft puff, blow out magnificent soap bubbles reflecting the seven colors of the rainbow. There was an art to it; done well, the bubbles would expand massively, drifting high and far away, sometimes emerging in rapid succession. Those unskilled would merely produce a bubble that burst dangerously fast, splashing soapy water all over their faces. Back then, the common household soaps were the long, yellowish bars of the Guben brand (though we children always referred to it in our subconsious minds as the "Worker-Peasant soap") or Fan brand laundry soap; Fenghua sandalwood soap was a rare luxury. Soap was strictly rationed by coupons, one bar per person each month. A bar of Guben soap cost roughly fifteen cents, while the semi-translucent Fan brand laundry soap was thirty-six cents a bar, and Fenghua sandalwood soap demanded a steep eighty cents (eight mace) per bar.

The world behind the fence was full of allure. Wrapped around the gate was a rusted iron chain, secured by a large padlock. Yet, the children always managed to push the gate just enough beneath the chain to force open a narrow gap. In the late summer and early autumn, young boys would slip through to catch crickets and mantises. The adults said there was a small creek inside, inhabited by water ghosts that would drag people under. Hearing this made my hair stand on end, but despite the fear, curiosity proved irresistible.
Finally, one day, I summoned the courage to crouch down and poke my head through that gap in the bamboo gate. The world within was lush, fresh, and wrapped in mystery. As if possessed, I gave a sharp heave and squeezed my way inside. Wow—all at once, I felt entirely cut off from the outside world. After only a few steps, I caught sight of the small creek behind the bushes, its clear waters flowing over dim, swaying water weeds.
Plop! A sudden splash sent ripples across the surface of the water—likely a large frog whose sweet dreams I had disturbed, diving in while muttering a few croaks. Instantly, the hairs on the back of my neck stood straight up. The words "water ghost, water ghost" began to plunge through my mind. The dread mounted with every passing second, goosebumps broke out across my arms, and every single hair on my body bristled in fright. Hurriedly, I turned around and scrambled back out through the gap in the gate.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第四百三十二篇

Saturday, October 24, 2026

《笠窪片野的漣漪:從大山腳下到泰晤士河畔的鐘聲》

我們住在神奈川縣伊勢原市一個叫笠窪片野的地方。窗前遠眺能看到大山(Oyama)的山巔,附近的鶴卷溫泉以富含鈣質聞名。也許我生長在鬧市,對大自然充滿了幻想。笠窪、片野這幾個字對我來說也是富有詩意的。這些地名足以令人產生遐想,閉上眼睛彷彿就能看到遠古洪荒時代,這片草長鶯飛、溫泉滋潤的沃土上,有成群的仙鶴在築巢、繁衍、翱翔~~

鎮上的小巷深處有幾家幽雅的溫泉旅館,庭院深深的,很神祕。據說那裡溫泉含鈣量相當豐富,可與牛乳相比。偶爾去那兒的餐館享受一下美食,穿過幽靜的小路,透過朦朧的月光,會瞥見幾間隱掩在樹叢裡的溫泉雅室,地面上空開一截的小竹門下,露出擺放整齊的大小兩雙木屐……

1998年2月23日鶴卷溫泉站(途徑日本回上海)

從鶴卷溫泉站往北走十來分鐘到家。每天傍晚5點鐘,窗外會傳來一段報時音樂,似乎在親切地提醒在外玩耍的孩子們該回家了,主婦們該做晚飯了。1992年離開日本後,直到2003年2月27日,當我獨自在倫敦泰晤士河邊漫步時,突然聽到矗立在威斯特敏斯特橋邊的大本鐘裡傳出了動聽的鐘聲。「叮咚、叮咚」,那鐘聲是如此地耳熟,但似乎又是那麼地遙遠。

2003年2月27日大本鐘

啊~!想起來了,那不是當年我生活在日本時,每天晚上5點鐘的報時音樂嗎?!好溫馨哦。我駐足靜聽,這動聽的鐘聲似乎帶來了些許的鄉愁。2026年2月從 Gemini AI 那兒得知,這段音樂就是大本鐘著名的報時旋律(威斯特敏斯特鐘聲)。它實際上起源於1793年英國劍橋的聖瑪麗大教堂,之後於1859年被威斯特敏斯特採用。

1998年2月23日重訪鶴卷溫泉(往前走大約十分鐘到家)

回頭說日本。在超市進入之前,我們那裡都是小店小生意。肉店男主人認真勤懇、樸實無華,菜鋪子裡結實、勤快而和善的「歐巴桑」一直都蹲在地上忙活。一家水產店,一家小藥局,一家小電器店,一家小服飾棉被店,三兩家居酒屋,四五家小飯館,一家中華料理店,還有一家パチンコ(扒金宮)。

超市的進入給小店主們造成了很大的精神與生活壓力。菜鋪關了,肉店慌了。J 還是一如既往地去小店購物,從不去超市。正如我之前寫過他對「商業大鯊魚」的厭惡,他寧可多花幾塊錢,也不願看著這些各具風格、富有人情味的小街坊被整齊劃一的連鎖模式給吞噬。在美國也是如此,他盡著綿薄之力照顧著街邊小生意,固執地守護著那點日漸消失的人情味。

跟J一起外食,如果不是吃西餐,為了不使用一次性木筷子,我們都會帶上兩雙家裡的筷子。有時我揶揄地想,如今超市連鎖店發展的趨勢如此迅猛,J的做法是不是「螳螂擋車」?!

1986年10月18日廚房窗前遠眺Oyama山巔
A view toward the summit of Mount Oyama from the kitchen window

J 經常騎自行車鍛鍊身體,週末我們會去爬大山(Oyama)。大山就像是我們的後院兒,一有空就去爬。Oyama 大山有兩條道上山,一條險峻一些,我走過一次,後來便堅決不走,而 J 偏偏喜歡有挑戰性的。我們也常去 YMCA 活動中心游泳,他還教我潛水。說到潛水,J 還喜歡去水肺式潛水(Scuba diving),那我是堅決不敢去的。看著他拿著潛水面鏡等裝備出門,我是一次也沒跟著去過。你說我這人慫不慫?掃不掃興?!騎輕便摩托車(scooter)出門遇到陡坡就不肯上,連在湖裡游泳都不敢游出警戒線外去……

J 經常去書店消磨時光。我也曾經在新華書店開架書櫥前徘徊,但到了有好幾層樓的新宿紀伊國屋書店,我便成了文盲,英文的、日文的,各種書名在我眼睛裡只是單個字母的排列組合,卻怎麼也成不了句子。他在那裡可以忘了時間,而我穿著高跟兒鞋在那裡站得腳疼,如果我也入迷地看書,絕不會想到鞋尖兒夾腳。J 買了世界名著的英語簡寫本回來給我閱讀,買了英語語法、常用句等練習書籍給我學。

這是1989年1月20日我們在附近遠足的照片。天還比較涼,我們帶著一個暖水壺,在林間小道穿行,腳下是厚厚的落葉,踏上去沙沙作響。走著走著,眼前出現了一片開闊的、長滿了長草的斜坡。但眼前的草坡像是大海的波浪,一波一波的,還留著大風吹過的痕跡。似乎是在一夜之間,那一坡茂盛的、齊腰高的長草都被狂風吹倒。冬季黃黃的長草裡夾雜著早春的嫩綠,見了這片草坡就想在上面打滾,不願離開。


這張照片中的車庫只有一米多高,進深也是一米左右,而這棟兩層的住家小樓就在路邊,距離馬路也就兩米的距離。


房主把車停好後,只有車鼻子伸進了那個小車庫,整個車身的三分之二是露天的,車的尾部剛好離開馬路。真是螺絲殼裡做道場,頂級的空間設計。

路邊這是一家叫「車屋」的小餐館,門口掛著一條大河豚魚乾,不知是否是真魚製作的標本,估計裡面可以吃到河豚魚刺身。J 帶我吃過一次河豚刺身,五千多日圓一盤。魚片切得如紙薄,粉嫩透光,在盤子裡薄薄地碼了一圈,結果我根本沒吃出什麼不尋常來。

第一次知道河豚魚,是我在杭州灣五四農場漁業隊的時候。有一天,我得到中港收購站站長的允許,一個人跟著一條船出了海。當時我們隊裡好幾個女生吵著要跟船出海,站長說:「你們誰如果在原地轉幾個圈頭不暈的就行。」結果姑娘們都轉得七葷八素、東倒西歪,只有我被同意跟船。其實,我當時也轉暈了。船上的五六個青壯年是真正的東海漁民,不屬於我們農場,而我們漁業隊的漁船只能在內河河道裡開,出不了海。那天,他們在波濤滾滾的海裡撒了網。收網時,我也跟著一起將沉甸甸的魚網拽上船。我還看見他們在清理河豚魚,這才第一次知道那是毒魚。他們說:「不吃河豚魚,就不知道東海洋的滋味!」但我到底還是差了點膽子,沒敢吃。

從照相簿裡看,1989年1月20日我們在附近遠足的那一天,我們還去了鐮倉。在冬日慘淡的陽光裡,我們去了有七百多年歷史的光明寺。J 的照片捕捉到了鐮倉那種古老而深邃的寧靜。

在日本似乎很難丟失東西。有一次J下電車時,忘了取放在架子上的、從機場免稅店裡買的兩瓶洋酒和自己脫下的一件皮夾克。到家後給電車服務處打電話,一問果然東西已在總站的失物招領處了。

有一回我在鶴卷溫泉站後面的巴士總站上車時,發現了一隻皮夾子。立刻交給了駕駛員,他問我姓名和聯絡方式,我心裡湧動著自豪,告訴他我是中國人,沒想給他聯絡方式。但他例行公事,堅持要聯絡方式。無奈,我只能給了他。兩三個月後,忽然接到電話,要我去失物招領處領取四千日元。原來按規定,失物在一定時間內無人認領,他們就通知拾獲失物的人去領取財物。那錢包裡有四千元,我沒去。

打小養成的習慣,比如每天早上刷牙洗臉,過去條件不允許天天洗澡,那麼睡覺前都會洗臉、洗屁股、洗腳。到了日本後,家裡有浴室了,咱也就馬上跟上,天天洗澡了。過去洗身子上下分明,要有三塊毛巾:洗臉的、洗屁股的、洗腳的。哎~怎麼這外國人就一條大浴巾能從頭擦到腳呢?慢慢地我也學會了這樣用,也開始一天刷兩次牙了。好習慣咱就趕緊學。J 還有一點,就是出門前總要洗個澡,收拾得乾乾淨淨的,其實他早上已經洗過一次了。但我認為的壞習慣我就不學了,比如喝酒。

新生活的日子很溫馨。每天早上 J 都會對我說:“Good morning! Did you sleep well?” 晚上說一聲 “Sleep tight” 或 “Sweet dreams.” 真沒想到婚後的生活是這樣的甜美。

我們家在二樓最裡面的西南角上(1991年10月拍攝)
Our home, located at the very end of the second floor in the southwest corner. (Photographed in October 1991)

樓開放式過道在樓北邊,樓上三家的門前都有個洗衣機(1986年10月拍攝)
The open-air corridor on the second floor faces north; all three households on this floor have a washing machine placed outside their front doors. (Photographed in October 1986)

進門後是一間「洋式」客廳兼開放式廚房與餐廳,木地板。進門左手是鞋櫃、浴室的不透明磨砂玻璃門,浴室門裡面是廁所(不在照片中)。
Stepping inside leads to a Western-style living room combined with an open kitchen and dining area, featuring hardwood floors. To the left of the entrance is a shoe cabinet and the opaque frosted glass door of the bathroom, inside of which lies the restroom (not pictured).

進門右側屋子西南角是廚房一角,有煤氣灶台、洗碗池與冰箱(1991年10月拍攝)
To the right of the entrance, the southwest corner of the room serves as a kitchen nook, equipped with a gas stove counter, sink, and refrigerator. (Photographed in October 1991)

屋子中間放著一個長方形的餐桌、碗櫥,碗櫥後方是廁所(不在照片中)、碗櫃邊上是間儲藏室。南牆背面是中間那間屋子,門兩側掛的卷軸畫是一位在華東師大任教的教授畫的,送給J的(1991年10月拍攝)。
A rectangular dining table and a china cabinet occupy the center of the room. Behind the china cabinet is the restroom (not pictured), and adjacent to it is a storage room. On the other side of the south wall lies the middle room; hanging on both sides of the door are scroll paintings created by a professor from East China Normal University, gifted to J. (Photographed in October 1991)

1991年8月30日朋友來訪 Two friends visited on August 30, 1991.

中間是一間「和式」有6張榻榻米的屋子,我們用做書房。西南角放了書架(1991年10月拍攝)
The middle room is a Japanese-style washitsu with six tatami mats, which we used as a study. A bookshelf is nestled in the southwest corner. (Photographed in October 1991)

西南角,南面是玻璃大拉門,西邊是大拉窗,南邊有個陽台。角落裡放著一張低矮舒適的黑皮轉椅,和配套的黑皮翹腳凳子(1991年10月拍攝)。The southwest corner features large sliding glass doors to the south, a large sliding window to the west, and a balcony stretching to the south. Tucked into the corner is a low, comfortable black leather swivel chair with its matching ottoman. (Photographed in October 1991)

中間屋子東南角,我的寫字台,上面是我的一台帶有小型打印機的折疊式 ワープロ (Wapuro)。左邊牆上掛的是我畫的玫瑰和孔雀圖(工筆畫,1990年我才開始學畫畫)。另一邊牆上掛的是一米見寬的小掛毯,上面一個圓形圖案裡面有三隻簡化了的孔雀,似乎代表著小家庭,是我中專班的六個女生送的(1991年10月拍攝)。
The southeast corner of the middle room features my writing desk, with my folding Wapuro (word processor) along with its accompanying small printer. Hanging on the left wall is my drawings of roses and a peacock—done in the traditional gongbi (fine-line) style, which I only began learning in 1990. On the opposite wall hangs a small, meter-wide tapestry featuring a circular motif with three stylized peacocks, seemingly symbolizing a small family—a gift from the six girls of my technical secondary school class. (Photographed in October 1991)

中間屋子東北角,J的辦公角是一個高高的櫃子,中間有突出來的寫字平台。邊上有電視機、錄放影機以及錄影帶和CD,還有音響設備。J在家裡時始終有背景音樂繚繞。古典音樂,歌劇,爵士樂,偶爾是 The Beatles(1991年10月拍攝)。
In the northeast corner of the middle room is J’s workspace—a tall cabinet featuring a protruding writing ledge. Alongside it are the television, VCR, videocassettes, CDs, and audio equipment. Whenever J was home, background music would fill the air—classical, opera, jazz, and occasionally, The Beatles. (Photographed in October 1991)

臥室在中間屋子的東側,也有6張榻榻米。臥室西南角也有一個辦公桌,上面打開著的是我的那台 ワープロ,犄角裡是我的CD。牆上的畫是我畫的一棵開紫花的草本植物,右側木門板上貼著20幾張風景與家人的照片(1991年10月拍攝)。
The bedroom, also a six-tatami room, lies to the east of the middle room. It, too, houses a desk in its southwest corner, upon which sits my open Wapuro, with my CDs tucked into the nook. On the wall hangs my painting of a purple-flowering herbaceous plant, while the wooden door panel on the right is adorned with over twenty photographs of landscapes and family. (Photographed in October 1991)

臥室東南角靠窗是個竹編小櫃,有五個抽屜,上面放置一盆蕨類植物,左邊是大衣櫥(1991年10月拍攝)
By the bedroom window in the southeast corner sits a small bamboo cabinet with five drawers, topped with a potted fern. To the left of the small bamboo-woven cabinet is a large wardrobe. (Photographed in October 1991)

臥室東北角地上鋪著淺藍色的羽絨被子,左邊的拉門後面是書房,右邊的拉門是儲藏室,白天把被子收進去。牆上的畫是我畫的一紅一白兩朵牡丹(1991年10月拍攝)。
In the northeast corner of the bedroom, a pale blue down futon is laid out on the floor. The sliding door to the left leads back to the study, while the one on the right opens into a closet where the bedding is tucked away during the day. The painting on the wall features a pair of peonies, one red and one white, which I drew myself. (Photographed in October 1991)

最後一張是廁所照片只拍了部分水箱和上到天花板,平時一直保持得很乾淨,拍照那天順手插幾隻蘆葦,平時不裝飾廁所。
The final photograph captures a glimpse of the restroom, showing only part of the flush tank up to the ceiling. It was always kept impeccably clean; on the day of the photo, I happened to casually arrange a few reeds there, though the restroom was rarely decorated.

**********************************

The Ripples of Kasakubo-Katano: From the Foot of Mount Oyama to the Chimes of the Thames

We lived in a place called Kasakubo-Katano in Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture. From our window, we could gaze out at the distant summit of Mount Oyama, and nearby was Tsurumaki Onsen, renowned for its calcium-rich waters. Perhaps because I grew up in the bustling city, my heart was always filled with fantasies about nature. Even the names Kasakubo and Katano sounded poetic to me. These place names alone were enough to spark reveries; closing my eyes, I could almost see this fertile land in primeval times—lush with vibrant greenery, nurtured by warm springs, with flocks of sacred cranes nesting, breeding, and soaring through the sky.

Deep within the town's narrow alleys hid a few elegant hot-spring inns, radiating a mysterious charm with their deeply secluded courtyards. It was said that the calcium content of the springs there was so rich it could compare to milk. Occasionally, we would visit their restaurants to enjoy a fine meal. Walking along the quiet paths under the hazy moonlight, one could catch a glimpse of the private hot-spring rooms nestled among the thickets. Beneath the small bamboo gates, which hung a short distance above the ground, two pairs of wooden clogs—one large, one small—would be neatly arranged side by side...

It was about a ten-minute walk north from Tsurumaki Onsen Station to our home. Every evening at five o’clock, a time-chime melody would drift through the window, sounding like a tender reminder that the children playing outside should head home, and that it was time for the housewives to prepare dinner. After leaving Japan in 1992, it wasn’t until February 27, 2003, while strolling alone along the River Thames in London, that I suddenly heard the beautiful chimes of Big Ben standing by Westminster Bridge. "Ding-dong, ding-dong"—the sound was so incredibly familiar, yet it felt so distant. Ah! I remembered. Wasn't that the very same five o'clock chime from my days in Japan? It felt so heartwarming. I paused to listen closely, the cozy chimes carrying a faint, bittersweet touch of nostalgia. Later, in February 2026, I learned from Gemini AI that this melody was the famous Westminster Quarters. It actually originated in 1793 at Great St Mary's Church in Cambridge, England, and was later adopted by Westminster in 1859.

Back to Japan—before the supermarkets moved in, our neighborhood was entirely made up of small shops and local businesses. The master of the meat shop was diligent, earnest, and simple; the sturdy, quick, and amiable Obasan at the vegetable stall was always squatting on the ground, busily working away. There was a fishmonger, a small pharmacy, a tiny appliance shop, a little bedding and clothing store, two or three izakayas, four or five small diners, a Chinese restaurant, and a pachinko parlor.

The arrival of the supermarket brought immense mental and livelihood pressure to these small shop owners. The vegetable stall closed down; the butcher grew anxious. 

Yet, J continued to shop at the small stores just as he always had, completely bypassing the supermarket. As I have shared before, he harbored a deep distaste for those corporate "big sharks"; he would rather pay a little more than watch these distinctive, warm-hearted neighborhood shops be swallowed by a boring, cookie-cutter commercial model. It was the exact same when we lived in the United States—he quietly did his part to sustain local businesses, stubbornly holding onto the vanishing human warmth and regional culture.

When dining out with J, unless we were having Western food, we would always bring two pairs of chopsticks from home to avoid using disposable wooden ones. Sometimes I would think to myself with a touch of irony: with supermarkets and chain stores expanding at such a ferocious pace nowadays, wasn't J’s approach like a lone preying mantis trying to stop a runaway cart?

J often rode his bicycle for exercise, and on weekends, we would hike up Mount Oyama. The mountain felt almost like our own backyard; whenever we had a spare moment, up we went. There are two paths leading up Mount Oyama—one is significantly steeper and more treacherous. I tackled it once and firmly resolved never to set foot on it again, though J always relished a good challenge. We also frequented the YMCA activity center to swim, and he even taught me how to skin-dive. Speaking of diving, J was also keen on scuba diving, an endeavor I absolutely refused to touch. Watching him pack up his diving mask and gear to head out, I never once tagged along. Tell me, wasn't I just a complete coward? A total party pooper?! Even on a scooter, the moment I encountered a steep incline, I'd stubbornly refuse to go up, and when swimming in a lake, I’d never dare venture past the safety buoy line...

J used to spend hours losing himself in bookstores. I, too, had once spent time lingering in front of the open shelves of the Xinhua Bookstore back home, but upon stepping into the massive, multi-story Kinokuniya Bookstore in Shinjuku, I was instantly rendered illiterate. Whether in English or Japanese, the various book titles appeared to my eyes as mere random sequences of individual letters, stubbornly refusing to form sentences. He could lose all track of time there, while I stood till my feet ached in my high heels; had I been as captivated by the books as he was, I suppose I wouldn't have given a single thought to how tightly the toes of my shoes pinched. J also bought simplified versions of English literary classics for me to read, along with textbooks on grammar and common expressions for my studies. 

This memory stems from January 20, 1989, during one of our hikes nearby. The weather was still quite brisk, and we carried a thermos of warm water as we threaded through the woodland paths. Beneath our feet was a thick carpet of fallen leaves that rustled softly with every step. As we walked on, an open slope covered in tall grass suddenly unfolded before our eyes. But this grassy slope resembled the waves of the sea, rolling wave after wave, still bearing the distinct marks of a powerful wind. It seemed as though overnight, the entire slope of lush, waist-high grass had been swept flat by a gale. The yellowed grass of winter was interspersed with the tender green of early spring; seeing that slope made me want to roll around on it and never leave.

The garage in this photo is barely over a meter high, with a depth of about a meter as well. This two-story residential house stands right by the road, a mere two meters away from the pavement. When the owner parks, only the nose of the car tucks into that tiny garage; two-thirds of the vehicle remains entirely exposed to the elements, with the rear just clearing the roadway. It is a masterful display of craftsmanship—truly a masterclass in space utilization within the tightest of bounds.

By the roadside sits a tiny restaurant named Kurumaya (The Car House). Hanging at the entrance is a large, dried pufferfish. I cannot tell if it is a real taxidermy specimen, but I imagine one could order blowfish sashimi inside. J once took me to try blowfish sashimi. It cost over five thousand yen a plate. The fish was sliced paper-thin, a translucent, delicate pink, arranged in a subtle ring across the dish. In the end, however, my palate could discern nothing extraordinary about it.

My very first encounter with pufferfish dates back to my days with the fishery team at the Wusi Farm along Hangzhou Bay. One day, with the permission of the head of the Zhonggang Procurement Station, I alone was allowed to board a vessel and head out to sea. At the time, several girls from our team were clamoring to go. The station chief declared, "Whoever can spin around in circles on the spot without getting dizzy can come." The girls spun themselves into a state of utter disorientation, swaying and tumbling every which way. Only I was approved to go—though truth be told, I had spun myself dizzy as well. The five or six sturdy young men on board were genuine East China Sea fishermen, not part of our farm; our own fishery team’s boats were confined to inland canals and could never venture into the open ocean. That day, they cast their nets into the rolling, churning waves. When it came time to haul them in, I joined them, pulling the heavy, sodden nets onto the deck. It was then that I watched them cleaning pufferfish and realized for the first time that these were venomous creatures. They told me, "If you haven't tasted blowfish, you will never truly know the flavor of the East China Sea!" Yet, when all was said and done, my courage fell just a bit short, and I dared not take a bite.

Looking through the photo album, on that very day of our hike on January 20, 1989, we also visited Kamakura. Beneath the pale, somber winter sunlight, we wandered into Komyoji Temple, a sanctuary with over seven hundred years of history. J’s photographs beautifully captured the ancient, profound tranquility of Kamakura.

It seemed almost impossible to lose things in Japan. Once, when J was getting off the train, he forgot to take two bottles of liquor bought from the airport duty-free shop and a leather jacket he had taken off, both left on the overhead rack. After arriving home, we called the train service office, and sure enough, the items were already at the lost-and-found at the terminal station. Another time, as I was boarding a bus at the terminal behind Tsurumaki Onsen Station, I spotted a wallet on a chair. I immediately handed it to the driver. When he asked for my name and contact details, a surge of pride welled up inside me, and I told him I was Chinese, with no intention of leaving my contact info. However, he was just doing his duty and insisted on having it. Left with no choice, I gave it to him. Two or three months later, I suddenly received a phone call asking me to come to the lost-and-found to claim 4,000 yen. It turned out that by regulation, if lost property remains unclaimed for a certain period, they notify the finder to collect the money or items. There were 4,000 yen in that wallet, but I never went to pick it up.

There were habits ingrained since childhood, like brushing my teeth and washing my face every morning. Back then, circumstances didn't allow for daily baths, so before bed, it was a strict routine of washing my face, my backside, and my feet. Once we moved to Japan and had a proper bathroom of our own, I caught on quickly and started bathing every single day. In the past, washing oneself required a strict separation of upper and lower anatomy, meaning three distinct towels: one for the face, one for the backside, and one for the feet. Yet—lo and behold—how on earth could these Westerners use just one large bath towel to dry themselves from head to toe? Gradually, I learned to adopt their way, and I began brushing my teeth twice a day as well. Good habits are worth learning quickly. J had another quirk: he always insisted on taking a bath before heading out to present himself impeccably clean, even though he had already bathed first thing in the morning. However, if I deemed something a bad habit, I refused to pick it up—drinking, for instance.

Life in our new home was incredibly tender. Every morning, J would greet me with, "Good morning! Did you sleep well?" and in the evening, he would whisper, "Sleep tight," or "Sweet dreams." I truly never imagined that married life could be this sweet.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第四百三十一篇