1988年7月16日,我乘坐「鑑真號」輪船第一次離開故土去了日本。J 租了一輛小車,在18日中午抵達大阪碼頭來接我。回程的車中,我高歌一曲《妹妹你大膽地往前走》,就此開啟了我的海外生涯。
從大阪到位於神奈川縣伊勢原市的新家,如今用網上地圖一查,才五六個小時的車程。但當時的我並不知道,一切都是那麼的新鮮。J 不懂日語,全憑看著地圖開車,途中經常會遇到單行道,難免有些沮喪地嘟嘟囔囔。當晚我們在日本民宿住了一夜,途中 J 還帶著我轉了幾個地方。那時我人生地不熟,一個具體的地名也沒記住,只知道照片中的那尊大佛是鐮倉的。
多年後有了互聯網,上網一查才知道,鐮倉大佛距我拜訪的日子倒推700多年就開始建造了。大佛最初是木質結構,花了六年時間完成,三年後被颱風毀壞。1253年開始重鑄銅製坐佛像,供奉於大佛殿之內。而200多年後,大佛殿被海水倒灌沖毀,自此鐮倉大佛就成了露天大佛。我站在大佛像前時,大佛已經露天遮風擋雨將近500年了。這是多麼驚心動魄的歷程。難怪我那年元旦第一天就做了夢,夢見大地震,海水把一艘大船直接沖到了家門口。原來那是歷史通過夢的形式,小試牛刀演繹給我看一眼。
終於到家了。J 拿著鑰匙開了門,我剛要跨進去,J 說了一聲:「等等。」說著,他彎腰順勢抄起我的雙腿,將我整個橫抱起來走了進去。西方的這一習俗好溫馨。
屋子裡井然有序。放下行李,打開窗戶透氣,我們的小日子就開始了。
到家的第二天,J 給了我20萬日元。我當時全然不知道這筆錢是給我幹嘛用的,也許是讓我負擔起日常的開銷,我也沒問。但是平時出門買菜什麼的,他還會另外給我錢,我也就糊里糊塗地拿著。到了第二個月,他便沒有一下子再給我這麼多錢了,我同樣沒問。我腦子裡少了一根要「掌控」的弦,根本沒想過要當家、掌握經濟大權,本來這錢就不是我掙的。
抵達日本後的第五天,J 帶我去與他的朋友們見面。他們經常在附近的一家酒屋裡喝酒,裡面有日本教授,也有西方外教,都是東海大學的。一進門,媽媽桑就熱情地為我送上了鮮花和禮物。大家開開心心地聚集在一起分享美食、聊天,這還真是我頭一回被眾人如此「關注」,心裡有些不好意思。
![]() |
| 從北窗望去,遠處最高的山峰是Oyama大山 |
接下來的幾天我們就在附近轉了轉。我們去爬了大山(Oyama),又去了古都鐮倉。
那時我發覺,結了婚的第一個好處是:再也不用偷偷摸摸的了。過去無論是愛誰還是被誰愛,心裡都覺得是一件見不得人的事。原因是我當年愛著的人,後來得知他早已經有了對象,所以我們在公園裡散步都是一前一後地保持著距離。或者是那個我不愛、但他偏偏愛我的人,因為害怕得罪他有權有勢的爸爸,我不得不一次次跟著他出去,嘴裡重複著說「我們就做朋友吧」。當然,我更不願意讓別人看到我和他走在一起。再後來的姐弟戀,也是同樣見不得光的。
J 在歐洲待了幾年,有點「崇歐媚外」,總覺得什麼優格、起司、麵包、香腸、酒等等都是歐洲的最好。他自己也會做一手美味的意大利和法國料理。
他做的青醬意大利麵(Pesto Spaghetti)非常好吃,做法也簡單:用新鮮羅勒葉、烤松子、現磨碎的 Parmesan 奶酪、大蒜、現擠的檸檬汁和橄欖油。說到帕爾馬干酪(Parmesan),這裡還有一個小插曲。
剛到日本的某一天,我正在水池邊洗菜。J 從後面伸過手來,將一塊黃兮兮的東西送到我嘴邊。我把頭讓開了一點,想看清那到底是什麼。那東西看上去就像一小塊過去用的「工農肥皂」。不容我多問,J 臉上帶著神秘的微笑,將那塊「肥皂」塞進了我的嘴裡。我頓時驚呼:「Soap!Soap!」然而第二聲「Soap」還沒喊完,一股無法言喻的美味便在嘴裡漾了開來。原來,那是一塊意大利的 Parmesan 起司。這是我這輩子第一次吃起司。
J 還做過另外一種意大利面,同樣好吃且做法簡單。用大蒜、辣椒、番茄、黑橄欖(Black Olives)、刺山柑(Capers)、鹹魚(Anchovies)和橄欖油。J 說這道麵有一個特殊的名字,叫「Whore Spaghetti」,也就是「妓女麵」。據說是因為過去的妓女接客太忙了,為了節省時間才做這種麵。但我後來記錯了,這些年裡,我一直把那道「青醬意大利麵」誤記成了妓女面。
說到美食,J 是比較講究的。他自己精通意大利和法國美食的烹飪,下館子必須要吃精緻美食(Gourmet Foods),從不吃任何快餐。他也從不去超市或大型連鎖店,買東西一定要去照顧街邊那些誠實本分、產品質量極高的小實體店生意,哪怕價格貴一點也無妨。面對經濟發展的迅猛趨勢,他的這種堅持,真的帶有一點螳臂擋車的無奈。
喝酒方面 J 同樣有講究。儘管我們兩人在家吃飯時不喝開胃酒和餐後酒,但佐餐酒是必不可少的。吃海鮮必須配乾白葡萄酒,吃肉類則喝乾紅葡萄酒,普通的日常菜餚喝啤酒。到了睡覺前,在悠然輕鬆的背景音樂中,J 還喜歡喝上一點威士忌或白蘭地。
而過去只有在節假日才喝一點像甜水兒一樣的紅葡萄酒的我,一時間根本無法適應這種生活方式。為此 J 特意給我買了愛爾蘭百利甜(Baileys Irish Cream)和法國的金萬利(Grand Marnier)。我當時心裡還有些嫌他喝得太多。你想啊,我那時剛剛從一個貧窮、節儉的生活環境中走出來,哪裡見過這種架勢。沒見過家裡備有酒櫥,沒見過櫥裡擺著那麼多種類的酒,更沒見過天天都要喝酒的人。
那時的我根本沒有意識到這其實是一種中產階級(Bourgeois lifestyle)的生活方式和享受,反而認為這些都是不好的壞習慣。所以我是能不喝就儘量不喝。現在想想,是不是顯得有些大煞風景?確實是。我簡直是有福不享,生在福中不知福。
但是,到頭來生活了許多年後才知道,原來滴酒不沾才是最健康的。
**********************************
The Voyage of the Jianzhen, the Prophecy of the Great Buddha, and a Cheese update like Peasant Soap
On July 16, 1988, I boarded the liner Jianzhen and departed from my homeland for Japan for the very first time. Renting a small vehicle, J arrived at the Osaka pier at noon on July 18 to receive me. On our return drive, I sang aloud the song "Sister, Boldly March Forward," thus initiating my life overseas.
The distance from Osaka to our new home in Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, is merely a five-to-six-hour drive by modern online maps, though I had no inkling of this at the time; everything felt entirely novel. J understood no Japanese and navigated strictly by consulting paper maps; encounters with one-way streets were frequent, causing him to mutter with frustration. We lodged at a Japanese guesthouse for the night, and J guided me to see several locations along the way. Being completely unfamiliar with the country, I failed to record a single specific place name, knowing only that the giant Buddha in our photograph belonged to Kamakura.
Years later, with the advent of the Internet, I researched online and discovered that construction on the Great Buddha of Kamakura had commenced over 700 years prior to my visit. Initially a wooden structure, it required six years to complete, only to be demolished by a typhoon three years later. In 1253, casting began on the bronze seated statue, which was housed within a grand temple hall. However, over two centuries later, the hall was entirely swept away by a catastrophic tsunami, leaving the Great Buddha exposed to the elements ever since. By the time I stood before the statue, it had already weathered the sun and rain in the open air for nearly 500 years. What a breathtakingly monumental history. No wonder on the very first day of that New Year, I had a dream—dreaming of a massive earthquake where the surging sea pushed a grand vessel straight to our doorstep. It was history utilizing the architecture of sleep to grant me a brief preview of its power.
Upon arriving at our destination, J produced the key and opened the door. Just as I prepared to step across the threshold, J interjected, "Wait." Bending down, he caught both my legs in his arms, lifted me entirely into a bridal carry, and walked inside. This Western custom felt remarkably warm and welcoming.
The interior of the house was in immaculate order. We dropped our luggage and opened the windows to air out the space; our daily life together had begun.
On the morning following my arrival, J handed me 200,000 Yen. I had absolutely no conception of what this fund was intended for; perhaps it was meant for me to manage our daily expenses, though I never questioned him. However, he would still provide additional money whenever we went out for groceries, and I simply accepted it blindly. By the second month, he ceased giving me such a large sum all at once, and again, I asked no questions. The desire for "control" was entirely missing from my nature; it never crossed my mind to manage the household finances or seize economic authority—after all, the money was not earned by me.
On our fifth day in Japan, J took me to meet his companions. They regularly gathered for drinks at a local pub nearby; among them were Japanese professors and Western foreign language instructors, all belonging to Tokai University. The moment we entered, the proprietress (Mama-san) warmly presented me with fresh flowers and gifts. Everyone joyfully shared fine delicacies and chatted together; it was truly the first time in my life that I had been the focus of such attention, leaving me somewhat bashful.
Over the succeeding days, we toured the immediate vicinity, scaling the heights of Mount Oyama and visiting the historic ancient capital of Kamakura.
I quickly realized that the first true benefit of marriage was that there was no longer any need for secrecy. In the past, whether loving someone or being loved by another, it always felt like a shameful affair to be hidden from sight. The reason was that the man I loved was later revealed to already have a partner, meaning we walked through the park strictly with one behind the other, keeping our distance. Or, in the case of those I did not love but who loved me, out of fear of offending his powerful and influential father, I was forced to accompany him out time and again, repeating, "Let us simply be friends." Naturally, I was utterly unwilling to let anyone witness me walking beside him. The later relationship with a younger man was similarly barred from the light of day.
Having resided in Europe for several years, J possessed a certain penchant for Western imports, firmly believing that yogurt, cheese, bread, sausage, and wine were always superior if they came from Europe. He was highly skilled at preparing delicious Italian and French cuisine. His Pesto Spaghetti was exceptionally savory and simple to make: using fresh basil leaves, toasted pine nuts, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, garlic, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and olive oil. Regarding Parmesan, there remains a brief anecdote.
On a certain day shortly after my arrival, I was washing vegetables by the sink. J reached his hand out from behind me, bringing a yellowish wedge directly to my lips. I drew my head back slightly to discern what it was. The object resembled a small block of the crude "peasant soap" issued by factories in China back in the old days. Before I could question him, J wore a mysterious smile and popped the "soap" straight into my mouth. I instantly shrieked, "Soap! Soap!" Yet before the second cry could escape my lips, a wave of pure deliciousness rippled across my palate. It turned out to be a piece of Italian Parmesan cheese—the very first time in my life I had tasted cheese.
J also prepared another variety of pasta that was equally delicious and simple. It utilized garlic, chili peppers, tomatoes, black olives, capers, anchovies, and olive oil. J mentioned that this pasta bore a peculiar name called "Whore Spaghetti" (Pasta alla Puttanesca), explaining that prostitutes in the old days were far too busy receiving clients and prepared this dish simply to save time. However, my memory failed me later; for all these decades since, I had mistakenly remembered the Pesto Spaghetti as the "Whore Spaghetti."
When it came to culinary tastes, J was remarkably particular. He was an expert in cooking Italian and French delicacies; dining out required Gourmet Foods, and he never touched fast food of any kind. He similarly avoided supermarkets and massive retail chains, insisting instead on patronizing small brick-and-mortar storefronts along the street because they were honest, decent, and offered exceptional quality—even if the prices were slightly higher. Faced with the roaring velocity of modern economic development, his persistence truly carried the poignant futility of a mantis trying to stop a cart.
J was equally particular regarding alcohol. Though the two of us never consumed aperitifs or digestifs when dining at home, a table wine was mandatory. Seafood was strictly paired with dry white wine, meats required dry red wine, and ordinary daily dishes were accompanied by beer. Before retiring for the night, amidst a backdrop of serene and relaxing music, J also liked to savor a glass of whiskey or brandy.
Yet for someone like me, who in the past had only consumed sweet, juice-like red wine exclusively during festive holidays, I simply could not adapt to this way of living. For my sake, J specifically purchased Baileys Irish Cream and French Grand Marnier. Internally, I harbored a slight resentment that he drank so excessively. Consider it: I had only just emerged from a destitute, frugal environment and had never witnessed such a grand display. I had never seen a home outfitted with a liquor cabinet, never seen a cabinet packed with such a vast assortment of spirits, and certainly had never encountered a person who drank every single day.
At the time, I entirely failed to recognize that this was actually a Bourgeois lifestyle—a form of enjoyment; instead, I judged these practices as inherently bad habits. Consequently, I avoided drinking whenever possible. Reflecting on it now, did I not act as a total wet blanket? Indeed, I did. I was blessed with good fortune yet utterly failed to recognize it, living in comfort without realizing its value.
Yet, after living through it all to the very end, one finally learns that remaining entirely teetotal is the only true way to health.
特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。
Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.
第四百二十六篇


























