Saturday, October 31, 2026

《1990年代日本留學打工記:從流水線到日式酒吧》

真沒想到婚後的生活是這樣的溫馨,可好景不長。太安逸了我就想做點什麼,我也老大不小了,不能荒度光陰。J不讓我出去幹アルバイト(打工),找份白領工可以考慮,幹藍領工則不允許。可是這不現實呀我還沒有過語言關呢。當然生兒育女也行,奈何他還沒打算要孩子,納悶西方人怎麼不把傳宗接代當回事。

小時候看到小寶寶坐在花生殼裡的宣傳畫,就以為寶寶是從花生殼裡生出來的
When I was little, I saw a propaganda poster of a baby sitting inside a peanut shell, so I genuinely believed that babies were born out of peanut shells.

那麼進大學繼續深造怎麼樣?不行,根據J的收入,我在日本大學很難申請到獎學金。學費又高他不想把剛賺來的錢,又都交了回去。對此我很理解但也鬱悶。

別科日語班裡大陸的同學不少,大都在伊藤堂超市肉類加工廠裡打工。一天課間休息,聽他們說起昨晚上班時有個在生肉包裝組的女留學生跟日本歐巴桑爭吵起來,竟然將肉甩在了地上。說這女生肯定會被開除,聽說廠裡有嚴格的衛生制度。進廠時都要換衣服換鞋,進加工室要經過一間吸塵室,人站在裡面被強力吸塵器吸一下,手指甲都要剪乾淨,不可塗指甲油,頭髮都要掖在髮罩裡面。

這個小故事又勾起了我出去找工作的念頭,回到家我又跟J商量。我說「出去工作我的語言也會有很快的提高的,同學們的口語都說得很溜」,結果他同意了。同學帶我去了伊藤堂面試,因為不是學生簽證還被拒絕了。

第一個工作是一位台灣女生帶我去的,在一家小型電子加工株式會社裡幹。那女生20歲還不滿,但是很懂金融投資。她說如果看好了某地段有發展前途,比如會是醫院學校或是廠家擴建,就買一小塊緊挨著的地:「等它們擴張時,你的地就升值了,你就發財了。」我當時聽了很驚訝,納悶兒她小小年紀腦子怎麼那麼靈。而當時我對金融呀投資根本沒概念。

我們每星期工作20小時,白天日本人多,歐巴桑們都比較和善。晚上6點到12點是由一個日本大叔おじさん和一個日本男青年帶著十來個學生幹。他倆都不多說話,認真工作。我們則圍著長桌坐著邊工作邊說說笑笑。

下班時間還差幾分鐘,大家都急忙下樓等在打卡機旁,時間一到紛紛將工卡插入打卡機。然後騎上scooter(小型摩托车)飛速趕回家去,也有騎自行車的,不騎車的則要走到地鐵站趕末班車。

我們的工作是用鑷子夾住薄薄的半寸左右長的小銅條兒,往一個扁扁的深褐色的比巴掌大點兒的長方形模子裡放,模子裡有槽,先放進一個梳子狀的銅片,再八字形放四對小條。小條一端與銅片重疊。重疊處壓上一顆深褐色的與模子同樣材料的小彈珠。然後一個個放在水平滾動輸送金屬網上送進烤爐,烘烤20分鐘,冷卻後取出鑲著8隻腳的銅片就算成品了。此工作就是要小心仔細,接觸點要牢固。有時在搬運過程中,不小心碰了模子,震歪了的要重新放。當然烘烤出爐後再檢查到接觸歪了或接觸太少等就是廢品了。後來據說是我們晚上出的次品太多就全不讓幹了。

第二個工作是在另一家大一點的電子株式會社。在流水線上插電路板,我手腳麻利插好的板子很快就堆積上了。惹得下家那個小胖胖日本中年女工紅著臉低著頭很尷尬很生氣。我確實不是故意的,就是慢不下來。

組長將我換到他們僅有的一台自動升降供貨機上幹。工作台的前方有個一排六組光控小升降機。電子原件分別放在一個個小盒子裡,只要手伸過去取出一個原件,光控啟動,下一個盒子就會升上來。這樣既避免了流水線下家的不愉快,又由於整塊板子的所有元件都由我一個人插了,工作效率大大加快了。幹練的組長每次來搬走一摞摞我插的板子時,臉上都掛著強忍著的發自內心的笑意。我不是在賣力討好,只是我性子急、手腳快、幹事慢不下來。

估計我的工作效率是她從未見過的。那是,我早些年在華師大讀中專班的時候,電子實驗課上組裝過7管半導體收音機,我是第一個完成任務的。我們還組裝過12英吋的黑白電視機,插板子的活,我是得心應手。日本組長和車間頭頭們都很高興,一有外來參觀的人,就會被帶到我這裡來看我的操作,並介紹一番。但是自動機也會因為我的動作太快而出故障。比如我剛取出一個原件對號入座插進線路板,頭都沒抬就伸手去取下一個原件。可是光控才啟動,下一個盒子還沒到位我的手就伸過去了,造成光控一時的紊亂以至卡機、宕機。幹活麻利心情好就不覺得累,小小的鶴立雞群感,令人滿足。

但是她們也有一件令我佩服的事兒,午飯後盥洗室內,長長的洗漱水池邊站滿了正在刷牙的女工,這可真是個良好的衛生習慣。

見學回來後,就跟班上的同學去派金宮打工了。派金宮就是在日本到處都有的一家家裝飾華麗的遊戲場,其實就是變相的賭場。因為據說在日本賭博是違法的。所以場內櫃檯上沒有現金轉換。賭客的籌碼想換成現金的話,要到賭場外邊的一個小屋去換。往往這小屋在賭場百米開外。從表面上看這小屋和派金宮沒關係。而且換錢的小窗口開在封閉的牆上,裡面的人看不見來者的臉,以保護顧客的隱私。

這種遊戲場裡只有兩種遊戲機。店鋪大廳裡一排排的老虎機和彈珠機。工資給得高,每小時八百日元,但是要忍受刺眼的燈光、震耳的噪音和嗆鼻的香菸味兒。那時還沒有健康意識,其實這噪音和二手菸對人體的傷害絕不是八百日元能補回來的。

多數時候我是站在一個小櫃檯後邊,給客人手裡的籌碼換取小禮物。有時我也下場子,手拿開機器的鑰匙,站在大廳某兩長排機器的過道口。等著做的有兩件事:一旦在我的管轄內的某部機器開過,也就是開獎、客人大贏一筆,馬上走過去重新啟動該機器,翻一下計數牌,表明當天這台機器開獎過的次數。再就是,注意每台機器上的指示燈,如果有人的機器卡住了,出現小故障等,馬上過去幫助解決,大事故向上匯報。按規定解決彈子卡機後要將兩顆珠子放進孔裡,它們會帶出十來個珠子,以示補償。這時,我往往就抓上一把多放一些,客人們當然就很高興,但是這絕對不能讓老闆知道。

還有老虎機快要開獎時,也就是三個七要對齊時,有些顧客就會讓我來摁第三個鍵。每個按鍵對應裡面的一個輪子,輪子外圍是一圈畫有各種圖案的紙,例如櫻桃等。三個七要是對齊的話,就是要開獎了。此時第三個七停的位置至關重要,都在一行裡才行,不論是橫向的還是對角的。往往這時顧客心比較忐忑,好不容易對齊了兩個,第三個不小心就會滑走。他們要我按,似乎我的手氣還真不錯,十有八九是摁準的。摁的時候眼睛要盯住那個七出現的節奏,看幾圈,心裡跟上頻率,待到七再次出現的那一剎那立刻摁下去。當然機器真的要開獎的時候,總是會自動對齊的,只是你還要不斷下籌碼餵牠,三個鋼幣、三個鋼幣地餵,也要花費不少。我的動作是減少了他們的不必要的花費。

還有,有兩個年輕顧客,每次都是晚上來,專挑開獎次數多的台子下手。不一會兒那台機子就又開了獎。一般人是不敢找已經開過多次獎的機器玩的。一排排望去,有的只開過一兩次,有的幾乎沒開過,高頻的會達到十幾次。一般人想,沒出過獎的幾率高,畢竟裡面都吃飽了珠子或鋼幣總要出一次的吧。結果,是越開獎的越開,越不吐骨頭的越不吐。據說是跟趨勢有關,趨勢來了擋都擋不住。

每天開門前店裡都會調整機器,最簡單的做法是將小孔上方的兩根釘子敲一敲,使之開口變寬或窄一點,寬,鋼珠就會容易落進小孔去,帶出多個鋼珠。反之鋼珠碰到釘子就彈開不容易進下面的小孔。

在派金宮打工時遇到一個女生也在店裡打工,福建來的還不到20歲,大方得體。只是一張口說話露出的牙齒間縫上,有大片黑黃污垢。沒人的時候我跟她說「去診所花4千日圓就能洗乾淨牙齒」。她很驚訝說「自己怎麼刷也沒用」。我以前牙齒內側也有些發黃,來日本後J帶我去洗牙。在國內時還沒有洗牙意識,好像那時牙科也沒這項服務。過了幾天在店裡再看到她時,她笑靨如花一口白牙,還挺靦腆地說了「謝謝」。同學中有個文靜的女生也是二十上下不與人扎堆兒說笑,不得已與同學在一起時她總是坐在下風。我發覺她腋下有異味。沒人時我悄悄拿出一個J用得只剩一點了的腋下除臭劑deodorant給她。說「西方人腋下都有異味的,每天完洗澡在腋下抹一下就行了」。僅管我說的時候語氣很委婉,但小姑娘還是紅著臉。以後也沒再提起這事兒。我想我的善意應該是幫了這兩位花季女生的。估計西方人是不知道我們東方人大多數是沒有狐臭的,幾年後我在美國超市麵包房裡打工時,遇到一位中年白女人,問我「deodorant 在哪條過道賣」,我還真不知到,便搖了搖頭。她卻睜大了眼睛像看怪物一樣看著我,以為我沒聽懂,一邊用手在腋下比劃著,一邊說「deodorant deodorant」。那意思是「你怎麼不知道 deodorant?你不用嗎」。

1991年,我在日本的Amada(天田株式會社)擔任過臨時日語-英語的口譯。Amada是生產各種金屬板材成形加工機床、鋸切機等的大型跨國公司。許多國家買了他們的加工機床(沖床、彎板機、剪板機和雷射切割機等),就會派工程師前來日本培訓。我的工作是他們在上課時候把日本講師的講課翻成英語。其實,我當時的日語很爛,英語水平也不咋地,奈不過朋友的極力推薦(有日語-漢語的翻譯他們自己做),趕鴨子上架接了這活兒。

好在他們上課內容是Amada數控沖床編程,編程術語也基本上用的是英文字,我的壓力不大。坐在課堂裡不一會兒我就掌握了數控沖床的編程,根據設計好的圖樣數據,用電腦語言編指令,讓大型機床的沖頭在金屬板上依照座標軸的(x、y)定點、有序、有效地鑽孔切割。

我過去在中專班裡學過電腦CPU(中央處理器)的工作原理、與非門邏輯電路、學過Basic和C計算機語言…… 而且成績相當不錯,可以說是非常好。

在Amada用的什麼計算機語言記不起來了,多年後聽賽博空間高人(大青蛙)說是G代碼(G-code)。程序編好後打印在穿孔紙帶上。結果是那些來聽課的工程師都沒有我邏輯清晰,連日本講師也驚嘆我的編程能力與速度。有三個從伊朗來的工程師,其中帶頭的總工說我比他手下的人都強,問我「是否願意去伊朗,在他的手下工作」,說是會給我高薪水。

這話在後來SU雪城大學計算機課程的三人小組裡的印度女人的丈夫也曾說過。當時,我、一個印度女人和另外一個中國留學生,三人一組用電腦語言C++編程做課題。他們倆都是在讀碩士學位。

印度女人編程能力相對來說比我們差一點,但用英語寫實驗報告的能力比我們強得多了,所以我們相輔相成、各盡所能一起討論、做功課很得力、很和諧。

她的丈夫是SU的Information Science and Technology(信息科學和技術)的教授。聽了老婆的描述發出了這樣感嘆:「要是能讓fen做我的下屬就好了,一個策劃設計、一個迅速執行,一定個是絕好搭檔。」

這照片是Amada公司的休息大廳,課間休息時我喜歡玩電腦遊戲,連平時很一本正經的講師都會忍不住過來玩一會兒,三人中間的是伊朗人總工的下屬,他的頭兒還要帥氣些、矜持些。

那三位伊朗工程師在結束培訓快要離開日本的時候,我們幾個在大廳休息室裡聚了聚,喝點飲料。他們還拿出了幾個塑料袋裝著的食物,看來是他們來日本前妻子給準備的家鄉酥餅。那時已經吃得差不多了,塑料袋裡只剩下不到半袋的碎渣,但他們還是非常善意地拿出來與大家分享,大家都是用手抓著吃。我出於禮貌,也用手抓了一小撮放進嘴裡,味道還真不錯!

然而,當時旁邊還有兩個日本男青年,一臉鄙夷地用日語低聲說:「Kitanai!Kitanai!(髒死了!髒死了!)」。可是在我看來,伊朗工程師們完全是出於好心,想分享自己家鄉的美味。我當時心裡根本就沒去想什麼髒不髒的問題。

1991年暑假,J要帶我去歐洲旅行,有了辦理泰國簽證艱難的前車之鑑,我放棄了。歐洲那麼多要去的國家簽證,我持的中國護照肯定在短時間裡辦不下來。再說這幾年裡已經去了美國4次(1988年暑假、1988年寒假、1989年暑假、1990年暑假),夠忙活的了,再則我有點怕坐飛機。

結果是J一個人去的歐洲。這以後我悔得呀,腸子都青了。直到1999年才自己一個人去了歐洲。整整八年啊,多大的變化呀,這要是擱在過去抗戰都結束了。

言歸正傳,在J赴歐洲之前,我向J徵求意見,是否能讓我去一家我們都熟悉的斯納庫SNAKU(日式酒吧)裡面做一個月。

當時有個我在上海工作時就認識的女友在那個裡幹。我和J都去過,漂亮的店主媽媽桑很和藹,我朋友在裡面頂個二當家的,口語順溜得讓人羨慕,她比我晚一年才來的日本。除了她倆還有一個年輕的日本服務生,她白天有份白領工作。

一提到SNAKU,就容易讓人想入非非。在那兒工作的20天裡,我根本就沒見過客人有過過分的、不雅的舉動。女友也舉止大方,很會周旋,台前桌後忙著招呼客人,給客人添酒還要到小灶上做炸雞腿等食物給客人吃。雖然有時看她也跟熟客說說笑笑,但並沒看出任何夾帶的色情成分。

這家店在本厚木靠近車站附近的一條小街上,叫「Princess」。店面很小,呈長方形,進門處右手邊有一張不大的吧台,吧台後面是酒架,上面有許多滿的、不滿的酒瓶。酒瓶脖子上都掛著個牌子,上面寫著客人的名字。客人每次來就給他們喝存放在那裡屬於他們自己的酒。或加冰塊兒或加什麼其他飲料。當然也可以開別的新瓶酒喝。我那朋友幾乎都能一看見人進來就馬上能取出他的酒瓶子。

屋裡能容納四五張桌子,每個桌子能坐四五個人。客人進來喝酒,也有人唱卡拉OK,不論誰唱了,唱得好壞,在坐的都會鼓掌,但好像日本人都唱得不錯。

這樣的SNAKU我和J不止去過一家,有時我們自己去、有時跟J的同事朋友一起去。每次都是很輕鬆愉快。

晚上8點到12點,每小時掙2500日元。我們每天幹的是:先開門換空氣、打掃屋子和最裡面的廁所(只有一小間)。然後把一摞外面洗衣店送來的小白毛巾卷成卷兒放進像微波爐一樣大小的恆溫箱裡,一旦客人進屋就取出一卷給客人。

客人一進來,先要喊:「いらっしゃいませ(歡迎光臨)」。然後帶他們入座,遞上熱氣騰騰的小毛巾卷兒。這時我朋友就會拿了客人的酒瓶過去噓寒問暖一番,手裡便麻利地給客人調酒。客人會問她喝點兒什麼,她就會要一瓶啤酒、或是一聽番茄汁、或是什麼其他的軟飲料、或者就用客人的酒調上一杯給自己。

這就是媽媽桑掙錢的地方,那飲料都是1000日元一聽或一杯。所以不言而喻的要求是我們服務生能喝,我只喝番茄汁。那朋友的啤酒量真大,三個小時喝下來是臉不改色心不跳。有時媽媽桑只來一會兒跟老顧客說上幾句就走了,屋裡就我們三個服務生。

媽媽桑和我 Mama-san and me
我第一次打保齡球,沒想到竟然拿了個全倒!
My very first time bowling. unbelievably, it turned out to be a strike!

一次媽媽桑請我們出去打保齡球。照片中一個女生只是過來玩兒的。我是第一次玩兒保齡球,這第一次投球就將所有球瓶擊倒了,全倒!媽媽桑還趕緊幫我拍了下來。

我們還在附近的商場裡轉了轉,那天還下了點小雨。後來媽媽桑還請我們吃燒烤,她點的生牛肝我們都不敢碰。

我的口語直到這次打工才有了個小小的飛躍。第一句從我嘴巴裡喊出來的「いらっしゃいませ(歡迎光臨)」真不知道別人聽見沒有,反正我自己都差點兒沒聽見。

客人有獨自一人來的,有公司會社下班後幾個人一起來的。有低頭喝悶酒的,有喜歡嘮嗑的。一次,五六個同夥坐那喝酒聊天兒,還真有一個日本人在捧著一本書看得津津有味。問是什麼書,他翻過封面給我看,是日文版的三國演義。可惜我沒怎麼仔細看過三國,但知道裡面幾個最有名的人物,就跟他瞎聊了一會兒,他被我那破日語加點破英語侃得眉飛色舞(日本人對會說英語的刮目相看),我喝了他們兩聽番茄汁。不好意思多喝人家的,要按她們幾個一定會宰得客人心疼。他們走時有人給了我一張名片,跟我說他們的社長希望跟我交朋友,讓我第二天去會社一次。我當時也是傻乎乎地,既然交朋友,那就去看看,多個朋友多條路嘛。我還真去了。那個社長四五十歲的樣子,一副文人類型,很寡言少語,昨晚在喝酒時他也沒多說話。我到了他的辦公室他也沒說什麼,坐了一會兒我就告辭了。

我們不用固定坐在哪個桌子旁,要眼觀六路耳聽八方。走來走去給各個桌子的客人添酒、能搭上話兒更好,但我這拙嘴笨舌的臨時工就免了。做點心、小吃、端盤子、客人走後擦桌子麻利點兒就行了。媽媽桑對我們都很客氣,也主要是我那朋友很能干。

一個月下來掙了20幾萬,第一次掙大錢,就都花了,買了一輛嶄新黑色的Yamaha(雅馬哈)scooter給J。J從歐洲度假回來,看到我為他買了新車,很吃驚,當然很高興。問為什麼我會給他買scooter。我說「你的那輛 scooter 已經舊了」。我們當時有兩輛紅色的Honda(本田)scooter,他開的那輛比較舊,是住我們二樓樓梯口那家的鄰居,美籍白人女教師離開日本時,以1萬日元賣給我們的。他從歐洲給我帶了一個紅寶石掛件。

最後的一次打工是在我們家附近新開的一家叫做三和スーパーマーケット(超市)裡做,在早上店家還沒開門前,10點開門,把所需貨物搬運到貨架旁,打開紙板箱,把物品,我管的是豆製品和醃菜類,補充到空缺的貨架上,按嘗味期排前後,過期的取下來。把剛過保質期的食物扔掉太浪費了,打工的歐巴桑們會在休息室裡用爐子燒一燒吃掉,趕巧時,我也會被分一份吃。

一切就緒等開門前,所有人都會拿一把拖把,拖本來就已經很乾淨的地,所有的拖把當然也都是很乾淨的白色。

這裡插一句,日本街上的垃圾車都是簇新、乾淨、沒有一點污跡的。垃圾工人都穿著整潔的制服。不像美國的垃圾車陳舊、污點斑駁、垃圾裝卸口大敞開著、髒不忍睹。

雖然工作幹得不錯,但出過一次小小的尷尬。第一次上他們的廁所,進去後卻出不來、打不開門!看到烘乾機旁,牆上還安了一個東西,也沒去研究它。等吧,等別人來用廁所,好在廁所裡相當乾淨,不僅無臭還有空氣淨化器噴出的淡香。感覺好長時間過去了,還沒人來,沒辦法只能按了緊急呼救按鈕。等到別人從外邊開了門把我救出來,才被告知,「要出門只要把手在牆上的那個裝置前伸一下,門就自動開了」。那個是光感裝置,還帶消毒功能。

**********************************

Memoirs of My Part-Time Jobs in Japan: From Factory Lines to Snaku Bar

I never imagined married life would be so warm and cozy, but the good times didn’t last long. Life became too comfortable, and I felt the urge to do something. I wasn't getting any younger, and I couldn't just waste my time away. J wouldn't let me do just any "arubaito" (part-time job). A white-collar position was open for consideration, but blue-collar work was strictly off-limits. However, that wasn’t realistic because I hadn't passed the language barrier yet. Of course, having children was an option, but unfortunately, he had no plans for a baby yet. I wondered why Westerners didn't seem to take the continuation of the family line seriously. What about entering a university for further studies? No, based on J's income, it would be very difficult for me to apply for a scholarship at a Japanese university. The tuition was high, and he didn't want to hand back all the money he had just earned. I understood his point, but I still felt depressed.

In my preparatory Japanese class, there were quite a few mainland Chinese students, most of whom worked at the meat processing plant of Ithoyokado Supermarket. One day during recess, I heard them talking about a female international student in the raw meat packaging section. The night before, she had gotten into an argument with a Japanese "obasan" (middle-aged woman) and actually threw the meat onto the floor. They said she would definitely be fired because the factory had strict hygiene regulations. Employees had to change clothes and shoes upon entering, and go through a dust-removal room before entering the processing area. You had to stand inside while a powerful vacuum blew off dust. Fingernails had to be trimmed perfectly clean, no nail polish was allowed, and all hair had to be tucked inside a hairnet.

This little story rekindled my desire to find a job. When I got home, I discussed it with J again. I said, "If I go out to work, my language skills will improve very quickly. My classmates all speak very fluently." In the end, he agreed. A classmate took me to Ithoyokado for an interview, but I was rejected because I didn't hold a student visa.

My very first job was introduced by a Taiwanese girl, working at a small electronic processing corporation. She was not even 20 years old, but she was very knowledgeable about financial investments. She told me that if she saw a piece of land with a promising future—for instance, if a hospital, a school, or a factory was going to expand nearby—she would buy a tiny plot right adjacent to it: "When they expand, your land will appreciate, and you'll make a fortune." I was astonished to hear this, wondering how such a young mind could be so clever. At that time, I had absolutely no concept of finance or investment.

We worked 20 hours a week. During the day, there were many Japanese workers, and the "obasans" were generally quite kind. From 6:00 PM to midnight, a Japanese gentleman and a young Japanese man led a group of about ten students. Neither of them spoke much; they just focused seriously on their work. The rest of us sat around a long table, working while chatting and laughing. A few minutes before clock-out time, everyone rushed downstairs to queue by the time clock. The moment the clock struck, we slipped our cards into the machine one after another. Then, people would speed off home on their scooters, while some rode bicycles. Those without rides walked to the subway station to catch the last train.

Our job required using tweezers to grip thin, copper strips about half an inch long and place them into a flat, dark-brown, rectangular mold slightly larger than a palm. There were grooves in the mold. First, we placed a comb-shaped copper piece inside, and then arranged four pairs of small strips in a V-shape. One end of the small strips overlapped with the copper piece. At the overlapping point, we pressed down a small, dark-brown marble made of the same material as the mold. Then, one by one, they were placed on a horizontally rolling conveyor wire mesh and sent into an oven to bake for 20 minutes. After cooling down, the finished product was a copper piece embedded with eight pins. This job required extreme care and patience; the contact points had to be solid. Sometimes during transit, if the mold was accidentally bumped, the pieces would get shaken out of alignment and had to be rearranged. Of course, if they were inspected after baking and found to be crooked or lacking contact, they became defective scraps. Later, it was said that we produced too many defects during the night shift, so they stopped letting us do it altogether.

My second job was at another, slightly larger electronics corporation. My task was inserting components onto circuit boards on an assembly line. Because my hands and feet were nimble, the boards I finished quickly piled up. This left the next worker in line—a chubby, middle-aged Japanese woman—blushing, lowering her head in deep embarrassment and anger. I really didn't mean to do it; I just couldn't slow down. The supervisor moved me to their only automatic lifting supply machine. In front of the workstation, there was a row of six sets of light-controlled mini-elevators. Electronic components were placed in individual small boxes. As long as my hand reached out to take a component, the light sensor would trigger, and the next box would rise up. This not only avoided causing unpleasantness for the next person on the assembly line, but since I ended up inserting all the components for an entire board by myself, my work efficiency increased dramatically. Every time the capable team leader came to carry away the stacks of boards I had populated, a genuine smile was suppressed on her face. I wasn't trying hard to please anyone; I am just naturally impatient, quick-handed, and unable to do things slowly.

I guess my efficiency was something she had never seen before. Well, years earlier when I was in the vocational class at East China Normal University, I had assembled a 7-transistor semiconductor radio in our electronics lab class, and I was the first to finish the task. We also assembled 12-inch black-and-white televisions. Populating circuit boards was something I could do with my eyes closed. The Japanese supervisor and the workshop bosses were all very pleased. Whenever outside visitors came for a tour, they would be brought to my station to watch me operate, accompanied by an introduction. However, the automated machine would also malfunction because my movements were too fast. For instance, right after I took out a component, matched its position, and inserted it into the circuit board, I would reach for the next component without even lifting my head. But the light control had just been initiated, and before the next box was in place, my hand had already reached over, causing temporary confusion in the optical sensor, which led to jams and system crashes. Working efficiently and being in a good mood kept me from feeling tired; that slight feeling of standing out from the crowd was quite satisfying. However, there was one thing they did that I truly admired: after lunch, the long sink in the restroom was packed with female workers brushing their teeth. This was truly an excellent hygiene habit.

After returning from a field trip, I went to work at a Pachinko parlor with my classmates. Pachinko parlors are gorgeously decorated amusement halls found everywhere in Japan, but in reality, they are casinos in disguise. Since gambling is said to be illegal in Japan, there are no cash exchanges at the counters inside the parlor. If players want to exchange their chips or tokens for cash, they have to go to a small booth outside the parlor. Often, this booth is located about a hundred meters away. On the surface, the booth has no connection to the Pachinko parlor. Moreover, the small window for exchanging money is built into a solid wall; the person inside cannot see the face of the visitor, thereby protecting the customer's privacy.

This kind of amusement hall featured only two types of gaming machines: rows upon rows of slot machines and Pachinko machines in the main hall. The wages were high, 800 yen per hour, but one had to endure the glaring lights, deafening noise, and choking smell of cigarette smoke. Back then, there was no health awareness. In fact, the damage done to the human body by that noise and secondhand smoke could never be compensated for by a mere 800 yen.

Most of the time, I stood behind a small counter, exchanging small gifts for the tokens in the customers' hands. Sometimes I would also go onto the floor, holding the key to unlock the machines. Standing at the aisle entrance of two long rows of machines in the hall, I waited to do two things. First, if a certain machine under my jurisdiction hit the jackpot—meaning the customer won big—I would immediately walk over to restart the machine and flip the counter board to show how many times that machine had paid out that day. Second, I had to watch the indicator lights on each machine. If someone's machine jammed or experienced a minor glitch, I would go over immediately to help resolve it; major incidents were reported upward. According to the rules, after fixing a jammed ball mechanism, two pinballs had to be dropped into the slot, which would automatically release about ten balls as compensation. At those times, I would often grab a handful and put in a few extra, which made the customers very happy. Of course, this could absolutely not be let known to the boss.

Also, when a slot machine was close to hitting the jackpot—meaning the three sevens were about to align—some customers would ask me to press the third button for them. Each button corresponded to a reel inside, and the outer edge of the reel was a strip of paper printed with various symbols, like cherries. If the three sevens aligned, it meant a jackpot. At this moment, where the third seven stopped was absolutely critical; they all had to be in a single line, whether horizontally or diagonally. Usually, customers felt quite anxious at this point; after managed to align two, the third one could easily slip away if they weren't careful. When they asked me to press it, it seemed my luck was actually quite good, as I nailed it eight or nine times out of ten. While pressing, my eyes had to lock onto the rhythm of that seven appearing. I would watch it for a few rotations, catch the frequency in my mind, and press the button instantly the very split second the seven appeared again. Of course, when the machine was truly programmed to pay out, it would always align automatically anyway; it’s just that you had to keep feeding tokens into it—three steel coins at a time, three steel coins at a time—which could cost quite a lot. What I did was save them from that unnecessary expense.

Also, there were two young customers who came in every single evening and specifically picked the machines that had already hit the jackpot the most times. Before long, that very machine would hit the jackpot yet again. Most average players wouldn't dare touch a machine that had already paid out multiple times. Looking down the rows, some machines had only paid out once or twice, some almost never, while the high-frequency ones would reach over a dozen times. The average person would think that a machine which hadn't paid out yet must have a higher probability—after all, it was already stuffed full of pinballs or steel coins, so it had to spit something out eventually, right? As it turned out, the ones hitting jackpots kept on hitting them, while the ones holding out kept swallowing everything without spitting out a bone. It was said to be related to the trend; once a trend arrived, there was simply no stopping it.

Every day before opening, the shop would adjust the machines. The simplest way was to tap the two nails above the small slot with a hammer to make the opening slightly wider or narrower. If it was wider, the steel balls would easily fall into the slot, releasing multiple balls. Conversely, if the steel balls hit the nails, they would bounce away and not easily enter the slot below.

While working at the Pachinko parlor, I met a girl who also worked there. She came from Fujian and was not yet 20 years old, carrying herself with poise and grace. However, the moment she opened her mouth to speak, large patches of dark-yellow stains were visible in the gaps between her teeth. When no one was around, I said to her, "You can get your teeth cleaned at a clinic for 4,000 yen." She was surprised and said, "I’ve tried brushing them myself, but it never works." The inner sides of my own teeth used to be a bit yellow, but after coming to Japan, J took me to get a dental cleaning. Back in China, there was no awareness of dental cleaning, and it seemed dental clinics didn't even offer that service at the time. A few days later, when I saw her in the shop again, her smile was like a blooming flower, revealing a row of white teeth, and she quite shyly said, "Thank you." Among my classmates, there was a quiet girl, also around twenty, who didn't mingle or joke with others. When forced to be with classmates, she always sat downwind. I noticed an odor coming from her underarms. When we were alone, I quietly gave her an underarm deodorant stick that J had used until only a little was left. I said, "Westerners all have underarm odors. Just rub it under your arms every day after taking a shower." Although I spoke in a very tactful tone, the young girl's face still turned red. She never brought it up again afterward. I believe my kindness must have helped these two girls in the bloom of their youth. I suppose Westerners don't know that the vast majority of us Easterners do not have body odor. Years later, when I was working in a supermarket bakery in the United States, I met a middle-aged white woman who asked me, "Which aisle is the deodorant sold in?" I really didn't know, so I shook my head. She widened her eyes and looked at me as if looking at a monster. Thinking I didn't understand, she gestured under her arms while saying, "Deodorant, deodorant." Her expression implied, "How could you not know what deodorant is? Don't you use it?"

In 1991, I served as a temporary Japanese-English interpreter at Amada (Amada Co., Ltd.) in Japan. Amada is a massive multinational corporation that produces various metal sheet forming machine tools, sawing machines, and so on. Many countries bought their processing machine tools (such as punches, bending machines, shearing machines, and laser cutters), and would send engineers to Japan for training. My job was to translate the Japanese instructors' lectures into English during class. In fact, my Japanese was terrible at the time, and my English level wasn't great either, but I couldn't resist a friend's strong recommendation (they handled the Japanese-Chinese translation themselves), so I took the job like a duck driven onto a perch.

Fortunately, the course content was Amada CNC punch press programming, and the programming terminology mostly used English words, so my pressure wasn't great. Before sitting in the classroom for long, I mastered the programming of the CNC punch press. Based on the designed blueprint data, I used computer language to code instructions, allowing the punch head of the large machine tool to drill and cut holes on the metal plate sequentially, effectively, and precisely according to the coordinate axes (x, y).

In the past, during my vocational class, I had learned the working principles of a computer CPU (Central Processing Unit), NAND gate logic circuits, and had studied Basic and C computer languages... and my grades were quite excellent—one could say very good.

I can't recall what computer language was used at Amada, but years later, I heard an expert from cyberspace (the Big Frog) say it was G-code. Once the program was coded, it was printed onto perforated paper tape. As it turned out, none of the engineers who came to attend the class had a clearer logic than I did; even the Japanese instructors were amazed by my programming capability and speed. There were three engineers from Iran, among whom the leading chief engineer said I was better than anyone under his command. He asked me, "Would you be willing to go to Iran to work under him?" saying he would give me a high salary.

These same words were later echoed by the husband of an Indian woman in a three-person project team during a computer course at SU (Syracuse University). At that time, I, the Indian woman, and another male Chinese international student formed a trio to do a project using C++ computer language. Both of them were pursuing their master's degrees.

The Indian woman's programming capability was relatively a bit weaker than ours, but her ability to write lab reports in English was much stronger than ours, so we complemented each other, did our best, and discussed and did homework together very effectively and harmoniously.

Her husband was a professor of Information Science and Technology at SU. After hearing his wife's description, he sighed with admiration: "If only I could have fen as my subordinate. One to plan and design, and one to execute swiftly—it would definitely be an absolute dream team."

This photo shows the classroom and the lounge hall of the Amada Company. During recess, I liked to play computer games. Even the instructors, who were usually very solemn, couldn't help but come over to play for a while. The person in the middle of the three is the subordinate of the Iranian chief engineer; his boss was even handsomer and more reserved.

When those three Iranian engineers were about to finish their training and leave Japan, a few of us gathered in the lounge hall to have some drinks. They brought out some food kept in plastic bags, which looked like homemade traditional pastries their wives had prepared for them before they left for Japan. By then, the pastries were mostly gone, leaving less than half a bag of crumbs, but they very kindly offered them around to share. Everyone ate them by grabbing them with their hands. Out of politeness, I also pinched a small handful and tried it—it actually tasted quite delicious!

However, there were two young Japanese men present who said with a look of disdain, "Kitanai! Kitanai! (Dirty! Dirty!)" But I saw that the Iranians were acting entirely out of good intentions, wanting to share a delicious treat from their homeland. As for me, the thought of whether it was clean or dirty never even crossed my mind.

During the summer vacation of 1991, J wanted to take me on a trip to Europe. Having learned a hard lesson from the difficult process of obtaining a visa for Thailand, I gave up. With so many countries to visit in Europe requiring visas, my Chinese passport would definitely not get them processed in a short time. Besides, I had already been to the United States four times in recent years (summer 1988, winter 1988, summer 1989, summer 1990), which kept me busy enough, and furthermore, I was a bit afraid of flying.

Consequently, J went to Europe alone. After that, I regretted it so much that my intestines turned green with remorse. It wasn't until 1999 that I went to Europe by myself. A full eight years had passed—what a massive change! If that had been in the past, even the War of Resistance would have ended.

To return to the main story, before J left for Europe, I consulted him for his opinion on whether I could work for a month in a "Snaku" (a Japanese-style bar) that we were both familiar with.

At that time, a female friend I had known since working in Shanghai was employed there. Both J and I had been there before. The beautiful owner, the "Mama-san", was very kind, and my friend held a position like the second-in-command inside. Her spoken language was so fluent it made people envious; she had arrived in Japan a year later than I did. Apart from the two of them, there was a young Japanese waitress who held a white-collar job during the day.

The mere mention of a "Snaku" easily triggers wild imaginations. During my 20 days working there, I never saw a customer make any improper or indecent gestures. My friend also behaved gracefully and was very skillful at socializing. She was busy hosting customers in front of the bar and behind the tables, pouring drinks for them, and even going to the small stove to cook fried chicken thighs and other food for them to eat. Although I sometimes saw her chatting and laughing with regular customers, I didn't see any hidden erotic element.

This shop, called "Princess," was located on a small side street in Hon-Atsugi, quite close to the station. The storefront was very small and rectangular. To the left of the entrance was a small bar counter, behind which was a liquor rack containing many full and half-empty liquor bottles. A tag was hung around the neck of each bottle with the customer's name written on it. Every time a customer came, we would serve them their own alcohol stored there, either adding ice cubes or some other beverage. Of course, they could also open a new bottle. My friend could almost always pick out a person's liquor bottle the moment she saw them walk in.

The room could accommodate four or five tables, with each table seating four or five people. Customers came in to drink, and some sang karaoke. No matter who sang, or how well or poorly they performed, everyone present would applaud, though it seemed the Japanese generally sang quite well.

J and I had visited more than one such "Snaku". Sometimes we went by ourselves, and sometimes we went with J's colleagues and friends. Every time was very relaxing and pleasant.

From 8:00 PM to midnight, I earned 2,500 yen per hour. Our daily routine involved opening the doors to ventilate the room, cleaning the place, and tidying up the restroom at the very back (which was just a tiny room). Then, we took a stack of small white towels delivered by the outside laundry service, rolled them into cylinders, and placed them into a hot towel warmer about the size of a microwave. Once a customer entered, we would take out a roll for them.

As soon as a customer came in, we had to shout, "Irasshaimase! (Welcome!)" Then we would lead them to their seats and hand over the steaming small towel rolls. At this point, my friend would bring over the customer's liquor bottle, exchange some warm pleasantries, and nimbly mix drinks for them. The customer would ask her what she wanted to drink, and she would request a bottle of beer, a can of tomato juice, or some other soft drink, or perhaps just mix a glass for herself using the customer's liquor.

This was where the "Mama-san" made her money—those drinks were 1,000 yen a can or a glass. Therefore, the unspoken requirement was that we servers had to be able to drink. I only drank tomato juice. That friend of mine had an incredible tolerance for beer; after four hours of drinking, her face wouldn't change color and her heart wouldn't skip a beat. Sometimes the "Mama-san" would only show up for a short while to chat with regular customers before leaving, leaving just the three of us waitresses in the room.

Once, the Mama-san treated us to a night out of bowling. One of the girls in the photo had just tagged along for fun. It was my very first time bowling. Incredibly, on my first throw, I knocked down all the pins—a strike! The Mama-san even rushed to capture it on camera for me. We also strolled around a nearby shopping mall, and it was drizzling a bit that day. Later, the Mama-san treated us to a barbecue dinner, but none of us dared to touch the raw beef liver she ordered.

My spoken language didn't experience a small leap until this part-time job. I really don't know if anyone heard the very first "Irasshaimase! (Welcome!)" that came out of my mouth; anyway, I could barely hear it myself.

Some customers came alone, while others came in groups of several people after finishing work at their companies. Some lowered their heads to drink in solitude, while others loved to chat. Once, a group of five or six colleagues sat there drinking and chatting, and there was actually a Japanese man holding a book, reading with great relish. I asked what book it was, and he flipped the cover to show me—it was the Japanese version of Romance of the Three Kingdoms. Unfortunately, I hadn't read the Three Kingdoms very carefully, but I knew several of the most famous characters inside, so I chatted aimlessly with him for a while. He was completely delighted and animated by my broken Japanese plus a bit of broken English (Japanese people look at those who can speak English with mutual respect), and I drank two cans of their tomato juice. I felt embarrassed to drink too much of other people's stuff; if it had been the other girls, they would surely have fleeced the customer until his heart ached. 

Before they left, someone handed me a business card and told me that their president wished to make friends with me, asking me to visit the company the next day. I was also quite naive back then, thinking that since it was about making friends, I might as well go take a look—more friends meant more paths in life. And I actually went. The president was in his forties or fifties, looking very much like a quiet scholar. He was a man of very few words and hadn't said much while drinking the night before either. When I arrived at his office, he didn't say much of anything; after sitting there for a little while, I took my leave.

We didn't need to sit fixedly by any particular table; we had to keep our eyes and ears open to everything around us. Walking around to top up drinks for customers at various tables was the routine. It would have been better if I could strike up a conversation, but as a temporary worker with a clumsy tongue, I skipped that. It was enough to be quick at making snacks, serving platters, and wiping tables after customers left. The "Mama-san" was very polite to us, mostly because my friend was highly capable.

After a month, I earned over 200,000 yen. It was the first time I had made big money, so I spent it all to buy a brand-new, black Yamaha scooter for J. When J returned from his vacation in Europe and saw that I had bought a new vehicle for him, he was very surprised and, of course, very happy. He asked, "Why did you buy a scooter for him?" I said, "Your scooter is already old." We had two red Honda scooters at the time; the one he drove was relatively old, which had been sold to us for 10,000 yen by our neighbor living at the top of the stairs on the second floor, a white American female teacher, when she left Japan. He brought me back a ruby pendant from Europe.

My final part-time job was at a newly built supermarket called Sanwa near our home. Before the store opened in the morning—it opened at 10:00 AM—we carried the required goods to the sides of the shelves, opened the cardboard boxes, and replenished the items on the vacant shelves. I was in charge of bean products and pickled vegetables. We arranged them from front to back according to their expiration dates, and removed the expired ones. It felt like such a waste to just throw away food that had just passed its expiration date. The working "obasans" would heat it up on a stove in the breakroom and eat it, and whenever I happened to be there at the right moment, I would be given a portion to enjoy as well.

Once everything was set and right before the doors opened, everyone would grab a mop to mop the floor, which was already very clean to begin with, and all the mops were, of course, a very clean white.

To insert a side note here, the garbage trucks on the streets of Japan are brand-new, clean, and without a single stain. The sanitation workers all wear neat uniforms. They are nothing like the garbage trucks in the United States, which are ancient, heavily stained, with their loading bays wide open, looking unbearably filthy.

Although the work went well, I did experience a minor, embarrassing moment. The first time I used their restroom, I went inside but couldn't get out—I couldn't open the door! Next to the hand dryer, I saw something mounted on the wall, but I didn't bother to examine it. I decided to wait for someone else to use the restroom. Fortunately, the restroom was exceptionally clean; not only was it odorless, but it also had a faint fragrance sprayed from an air purifier. After what felt like a long time passed and still no one came, I had no choice but to press the emergency call button. When someone finally opened the door from the outside and rescued me, I was told, "To exit, you just need to wave your hand in front of that device on the wall, and the door will open automatically." That was a light-sensing device, and it even came with a disinfection function.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第四百三十七篇

Friday, October 30, 2026

《從高速新幹線到失落的千禧之約:我的1989日本回憶錄》

在自然環境長大的我,1988年夏一下子闖進了現代化的社會環境,身體還真的跟不上。坐飛機暈機,坐小車也暈車。你想啊,過去在國內的時候身體的五臟六腑幾乎都是處在四平八穩的狀態下的。那時國內的公共汽車甚至綠皮火車的速度都是比較慢的,眼睛根本不會跟不上看移動的物體。這一跨進現代化的環境,交通工具幾乎都是高速的,那習慣了看平穩慢速物體的眼睛在高速行駛的交通工具中看啥都是拉風拉道道的,能不眼花嗎?腦子就跟著受不了,那胃也是啊,在開長途的車裡,那胃老是在晃動的感覺,能不翻江倒海嗎。出門坐車要帶上好幾個塑料袋,好在是在自家的車裡鬧騰,沒在大眾面前出醜。又好在高速公路上常有加油站,可以停車及時扔垃圾。後來隨著時間推移,慢慢適應了,就不再暈車也不吐了。

1988年9月中旬從美國回到日本後,我就去橫濱市的飛鳥學院學日語了。但這種對現代化節奏的不適應還在延續——每天來回要坐2個多小時的電鐵,中途換一次車。在國內坐過的車,車窗都基本上開著的,而且車速都比較慢,根本沒有憋氣的感覺。現在一下子要在全封閉的電鐵裡待一個多小時,真的很難受。感覺憋得慌,透不過氣來。我只能靠車門站著,一旦車靠站了我馬上把頭探出去做深呼吸。人多下班擁擠的時候,車廂裡的人味兒也受不了。日本車廂裡貼滿了廣告,頭上方也掛滿了廣告,眼花繚亂的我還真不適應。讀了3個月那期日語班就結束了,修了證書上的日期是昭和63年12月23日。

1989年3月初從泰國回到日本後,J經人介紹幫我找了一位三十來歲的台灣女生教我日語,按2千日元一小時付費。當時在一般工廠、超市裡打零工(アルバイト)是五六百日元一個小時。不久她就回台灣了,她還把跟她學中文的一位在日本一所中學教書的日本中年男子介紹給我,跟我學中文。後來J又幫我在東海大學的別科報了名。4月開始,我就拄著拐杖,乘巴士去學校上課。大約半小時的車程。頭一天中午,J還給我送了便當過來,很暖心,也引人羨慕。記得教日語的中年女老師也看見了,她在接下來的課裡教日語單詞「親切」時還舉例說「グノさんの夫は親切ですね。」(グノ先生的丈夫真體貼呢。)你猜我怎麼回答的:「えっ、本当ですか?」(誒?真的嗎?)引得教室裡哄堂大笑。那位老師布置的作業寫短文,我就把做電鐵透不過氣來,一旦停車就把頭伸出去深呼吸的事寫了,她還當作範文在課堂上讀了。

跟日本的男人相比,J真是「親切」多了。1990年11月底在日本東海大學醫院做手術取出大腿骨上的三顆釘子。一年前在泰國北部清邁坐大象穿山谷時,被大象顛下來摔斷了左腿。泰國醫生用三枚釘子給我固定接骨。這次住院同病房有四五位日本病友,看著J每天都帶著鮮花來探望,她們都很羨慕我。J還給我拿來我喜歡聽的錄音帶和隨身聽。她們的丈夫可能是風俗,平時幾乎不來探病,只是手術那天現身。

在病床上我畫了幾張畫,還送了一張單支紅玫瑰畫給了對面床上那位很質樸的老婦人,她很高興。開刀當日J給我的鮮花我也畫了下來。

這两張J拍的照片是27日那天,手術前扎針準備做手術。從服裝上看,給我打針的這位小帥哥,好像不是護士。賽博高人(大青蛙)說:這位看起來不像是護士的小帥哥,極有可能是實習醫生(研修醫)或者是專門負責抽血檢驗的臨床檢驗技師。果然,從照片上看,他穿著醫生穿的白大褂,那動作好像是在抽血。我左手臂彎上方有條橡皮筋扎著,我的左手腕是立著的,大魚際在上面,他似乎是在手腕側面扎我。很痛的。照片中我都痛得張大了嘴巴,當然是無聲的。他是看不見的,他正低著頭聚精會神地扎我呢。

我們日語班上有十幾個學生,大多是大陸來的,還有從台灣、韓國、東南亞和北歐來的。

有一天我在家附近等巴士,一輛小車停在車站前方的幾米距離,一位很有學者風度的中年男士,打開車窗朝我招招手,跟我說:「是去東海大學的吧?」「是的。」我回答。「快上車吧。」他說:「我認識你丈夫。」原來他是我們別科的主任。到了學校,他會把車停在別科樓附近的樓前請我下車的,很低調。後來他還給我搭過幾次車。我很感激這位善良的別科主任,很有學識風度,但對我卻沒擺架子。

1989年11月14日到17日,我們TOKAI大學別科日語班的大部分同學與教授們一起坐新幹線去奈良、京都、廣島見學。

當晚我們參觀了大唐高僧鑑真和尚在公元759年所創建的唐招提寺。鑑真和尚從公元742年到753年,不畏艱險六次東渡五次失敗,途遇狂風怒濤、海盜官府追截以及觸礁,抵達日本時鑑真和尚已是66歲高齡,並且雙目失明。他為弘揚佛教以及促進中日文化交流做出了傑出的貢獻。

奈良公園內建於公元728年的東大寺,是世界上最大的木製建築。

這兩個立在地上的木雕頭像神態生動,是江戶時期的増長天王和持國天王的頭像。

奈良公園的鹿被視為神的化身。我們都買了鹿餅,餵了這頭餵那頭,很有趣。

這集體照是在奈良的法隆寺拍的,我站在最後一排的最左邊。站在最前排中央位置一臉笑容的是別科頗有聲望的老教授,大概是副主任,比較幽默。有一次上大課,課堂上學生基本上是不敢調侃老師的。那天他說了一句似乎是自嘲的話,我卻忍不住說了聲:「やっぱり」(果然如此!)。他聽了一愣,那一愣的意思是說,咦,怎麼有學生敢調侃他,而且個女生,但他也只能尷尬地笑了,同學們也都在偷笑。當然他也調侃地說過我拄著拐杖走路像風一樣快。

在奈良傍晚跟同學們自由逛街時,看到一家店燈火輝煌,門前有一排花籃,旗幡招展,從裡面傳出鈴鈴瑯瑯的聲響和傳聲器裡興高采烈的說話聲,十分熱鬧。在日本常看到這樣的店,但不知是幹啥的,同學說那叫パチンコ是彈珠房,便帶我進去玩兒。在彈珠機邊的小口投入500硬幣,嘩啦啦滾出一把鋼珠來,放進機器入口,轉動把手,鋼珠就唰唰地往上亂打。有點眼花繚亂,他們說手勁兒要悠著點兒,將鋼珠朝一個點打,那樣鋼珠才有機會落進那些一開一合的小洞,就會回流出幾顆珠子。珠子多到一定數量可換錢。那晚還經過一個脫衣舞店,時間已經過了大半場,好奇呀,也就跟著他們進去看看,我坐在最後一排,台上有幾個女人一個個單獨出場表演,都幾乎一絲不掛,她們和觀眾還有互動,尺度很大。最後那個拿著燃燒的蠟燭表演,還把蠟燭流出來的蠟滴在身上做出自虐狀。那是屬於我不該去的地方。

上面三张夜景是在奈良站附近

坐落在音羽山的半山腰、建於公元798年的清水寺,是京都最古老的寺院,其結構巧妙沒有用一顆釘子。

京都東映太秦映畫村是很多日本古代劇取景的地方。村裡有仿造的江戶時代明治時代的古街。街邊放著一台江戶時代的轎子,簡樸無華,就是一張木凳子兩側後邊與上方用席子擋住,頂部有一根粗木槓子。多年後的今天,2026年10月29日才從賽博高人(大青蛙)那兒知道,這轎子在日語裡叫「駕籠」(かご),是江戶時代日本平民和低級武士最真實的代步工具。再一看照片,後面屋子的牆上就醒目地寫著「駕籠」這兩個字,只是我一直沒把這兩個字與這頂破轎子聯想到一塊兒。這不,我剛在轎子上坐下,即刻樂呵呵地過來一個抬轎子的,他不是我們班的,有人端起相機拍了一張,這時又跑過來一位我們班的「轎夫」,就又接著拍一張。在布景道具小茶館兒裡,我也拿起茶壺茶碗兒當一回老闆娘給客人倒茶。拍這張照片時我試圖拔守門武士的腰刀,被他一臉佯裝嚴肅地一折扇劈將下來。同學們嘻嘻哈哈玩兒得很盡興。

映畫村裡還有拍和服照的業務,樣品照片都美得令人想起「最是那一低頭的溫柔」詩句。2千日元一張,貴是貴了點兒,打工一小時才賺五百多點兒。我還是忍不住排隊拍了一張,當照片寄到家時打開一看,真是太醜了。那樣品照片裡的女人都是精心化妝過的,白臉紅唇,很美。而我們排大隊等拍照的就沒有被精心化妝的可能,結果拍出來的是黃臉婆,戴著不服帖的假髮,表情也不嫻靜。你想啊,這邊排著大隊等拍照,照相館數錢數得手酸,沒時間給你捯飭,有下一位等著上鏡頭,你也心不定,怎麼會氣定神閒?!這和服穿在我身上也顯得太短了,即刻我就把照片撕了。

京都金閣寺1397年初建,曾是幕府將軍的度假別墅,後來成了禪寺。金閣寺曾在1950年被寺裡一名21歲的見習僧人林承賢縱火燒毀,據說他是要報復社會。

具有盛唐文化氣息的二條城建於公元1603年,是德川家康幕府將軍在京都的行宮。二條城的木質走廊有鸝鳴地板之稱,人走在上面會發出鳥鳴的響聲,是防止刺客的報警機關。二條城唐門雕樑畫棟極盡唯美。這次活動中其他班的日本老師與不同班裡的同學開始熟悉了,雖然還不知道對方姓甚名誰,拍照時也會有人走上來一起拍。有的照片不知是誰抓拍的,回到學校後統一貼在牆上,找到自己想要的付個沖印費去取。

我比較喜歡這張照片,是一個不認識的老師抓拍的。背景的那棟建築因為只有一小部分看不出地點,大家都站在建築前的空地上,似乎在聽取介紹。我和後面的一位其他班的男同學都側頭抬望我們的右側,面部表情嚴肅。我穿的米色立領風衣敞開著,內側是深藍色的薄絨,裡面是件披在肩上的紅毛衣,襯衫是黃色的。脖子上還掛著相機,雖然照片只有胸口之上,但我卻顯得知性大氣,似乎思緒被帶到了過去。我對被拍照全然不知。這就是抓拍的妙處,真實自然。

我們見學的最後一站是廣島,在那裡我們參觀了原爆紀念館。雖然早就知道二戰末期,美國總統杜魯門下令美軍在廣島與長崎投下了兩顆原子彈。但參觀時目睹歷史照片中的慘狀,心情還是十分沉重。1945年8月6日早上8點15分原子彈爆炸的瞬間造成了廣島市超過十萬居民死亡,城市遭毀滅性打擊。

走出展館看見和平公園裡一大群和平鴿在自由飛翔,便走過去餵鴿子。留個影吧,走過來一個其他班不認識的男同學坐在了邊上。這是我有生以來唯一的一次拍照時伸出兩根手指,發自內心的願望世界和平。

這張照片是我拍的那棟被原子彈炸毀的樓,另外一張是網上找到的是這棟樓沒被炸毀之前的樣子。原子彈爆炸後,只有這棟樓殘留了下來。1945年8月15日,日本宣布無條件投降。任何戰爭都是百姓遭殃。

在紀念雕塑前留影時一位不認識的男老師也過來跟我合影。不同班的幾個同學一起拍個集體照,我們的班主任齊老師匆匆趕來,側著身子右腳都還沒落地,就被快門抓拍了下來。

我們還去了廣島西南部的宮島,這是我在宮島入口處,一隻鹿正向我鞠躬行禮,不知被誰抓拍的。

這次見學最後一晚的旅館大廳
The hotel lobby on the final night of this study trip

在大願寺裡轉了轉,據說大鳥居代表神域的入口,用於區分神域和人類居住的世俗界。

1990年2月18日我們去班主任齊老師家作客。這是我和另外兩位同學三人走在去她家的路上。

這是齊老師一人在廚房裡忙活,我們在廳裡聊天兒。一共八個同學去了齊老師家,一個南韓的、一個泰國的、一個歐洲人,和五個大陸的,其他的打工等原因沒去。

至今我還保留著我們九個人連齊老師在內的約條。約條上寫著2000年8月第二星期天,我們班的這些人將再一次在中國的北京聚集,還寫有學校留學教育中心的電話號碼。我們每個人都信誓旦旦地簽了字。齊老師當場去樓上她家的書房裡,用複印機也許是FAX傳真機給每個在座的影印了一份複印件。當時覺得2000年是個好遙遠的日子。不知道別人怎樣,我失信了,我來美國後就與他們失去了聯繫。現在想想,我至少應該在2000年8月給學校留學教育中心打個電話的,很後悔~~



1989年8月一天放學回家,在家門前的走道上,看見J正舉著相機,就來一張,住著拐杖歪著頭,似乎疲憊不堪。隨即把拐杖放一邊兒再來一張精神點兒的,結果這張照片是我一生中難得的好照片。

One day in August 1989, on my way home from school, I saw J holding up a camera on the walkway in front of our apartment. I posed for a shot, leaning on my crutches with my head tilted, looking completely exhausted. Right after that, I set the crutches aside for another shot, trying to look more spirited. As it turned out, this second photo became one of those rare, cherished shots of my lifetime.

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From High-Speed Shinkansen to the Lost Promise of 2000: My 1989 Memoir in Japan

Growing up in a natural environment, I suddenly burst into a highly modernized society in the summer of 1988, and my body truly struggled to keep up. I got airsick on planes and carsick in automobiles. If you think about it, back when I was in China, my body and organs were used to a perfectly steady, slow-paced existence. In those days, the speeds of domestic public buses and even the "green-skin" trains were quite slow; your eyes never struggled to keep up with moving objects. But stepping into a modernized environment meant almost all transportation moved at high speeds. To eyes accustomed to steady, slow-moving objects, looking at anything from a speeding vehicle turned the world into a blur of rushing streaks. How could one not feel dizzy? My brain simply couldn't handle it, and neither could my stomach. In a car on a long-distance drive, my stomach felt as if it were constantly rocking—how could it not churn violently? Whenever I went out by car, I had to bring several plastic bags along. Fortunately, all this commotion happened inside our own family car, so I never made a fool of myself in public. It was also a blessing that gas stations were frequent along the highways, allowing us to pull over and discard the trash in time. Over time, as I gradually adapted, the carsickness and vomiting stopped.

After returning to Japan from the United States in mid-September 1988, I went to the Asuka Academy in Yokohama to study Japanese. Yet, this maladjustment to the fast pace of modernization persisted. Every day, my round-trip commute on the electric train (densha) took over two hours, requiring one transfer along the way. The trains I had ridden back in China usually kept their windows wide open and traveled at a much slower speed, so you never felt suffocated. Now, suddenly having to spend over an hour inside a completely sealed electric train was incredibly difficult. It felt stifling, as if I couldn't catch my breath. I had no choice but to stand right against the train doors; the moment the train pulled into a station, I would immediately poke my head out to take a deep breath. During the crowded rush hour after work, the sheer smell of the packed carriage was unbearable too. The inside of Japanese trains was plastered with advertisements, and placards hung thick right over your head; it was a dizzying sight that I truly found hard to get used to. That Japanese language program lasted for three months before concluding, and the date printed on my certificate of completion was December 23, Showa 63 (1988).

After returning to Japan from Thailand in early March 1989, J found me a Taiwanese young woman in her thirties through an acquaintance to tutor me in Japanese, paying her 2,000 Yen per hour. At that time, part-time jobs (arubaito) in typical factories or supermarkets only paid about 500 to 600 Yen an hour. Not long after, she returned to Taiwan, but she introduced me to a middle-aged Japanese man who taught at a local junior high school and was learning Chinese with her, so he could study Chinese with me. Later, J helped me enroll in the Bekka (Special Course) at Tokai University. Starting in April, I relied on crutches to take the bus to school for classes. The commute was about half an hour. At noon on my very first day, J even came over to deliver a bento box to me; it was deeply heartwarming and drew envious glances from others. I remember our middle-aged female Japanese teacher saw it too. In a subsequent class, while teaching the vocabulary word "Shinsetsu" (kind/thoughtful), she used us as an example and said, "Guno-san no otto wa shinsetsu desu ne" (Mrs. Guno's husband is so thoughtful, isn't he?). Can you guess how I responded? I blurted out, "Eh, hontō desu ka?" (Huh, really?), which sent the entire classroom into roars of laughter. Later, when the teacher assigned a short essay as homework, I wrote about how I felt suffocated on the electric train and would stick my head out for a deep breath the moment it stopped. She actually read it out loud to the class as a model essay.

Compared to typical Japanese men, J was indeed vastly more "shinsetsu." Near the end of November 1990, I underwent surgery at Tokai University Hospital to remove the three steel pins from my femur. A year earlier, while riding an elephant through a valley in northern Chiang Mai, Thailand, I had been thrown off by the elephant and broke my left leg. The Thai doctors had used three pins to secure and set the bone. During this hospitalization, there were four or five Japanese roommates in my ward. Watching J arrive every single day bearing fresh flowers to visit me, they envied me tremendously. J also brought along a Walkman and cassette tapes of the music I loved to listen to. For those Japanese women, it seemed to be the cultural custom that their husbands barely ever visited them while they were hospitalized, only showing up on the actual day of surgery.

While bedridden, I sketched a few drawings. I even gifted a drawing of a single red rose to the very simple, old woman in the bed opposite mine, which made her incredibly happy. I also sketched the fresh flowers J gave me on the day of my operation.

This photograph taken by J shows the day of the 27th, when I was being put on an IV needle in preparation for surgery. Judging by the uniform, the young fellow giving me the injection didn't look like a nurse. The cyber-expert (the Cyber-Frog) remarked: This young man who didn't look like a nurse was highly likely either an intern doctor (kenshū-i) or a clinical laboratory technician specializing in drawing blood. Sure enough, looking closely at the photograph, he was likely a clinical laboratory technician; he wore a doctor’s white lab coat, and his movements looked exactly like he was drawing blood. A rubber tourniquet was tied just above the bend of my left elbow, and my left wrist was propped upright with the thenar eminence facing up; he seemed to be piercing me right on the side of the wrist. It was excruciatingly painful. In the photo, my mouth is open wide in a silent gasp of pain. Of course, he couldn't see it—he was looking down, completely absorbed and concentrated on piercing my wrist.

There were a dozen or so students in our Japanese class, mostly from Mainland China, along with others from Taiwan, South Korea, Southeast Asia, and Northern Europe. One day, while I was waiting for the bus near my house, a small sedan pulled up a few meters ahead of the station. A middle-aged gentleman with quite a scholarly air rolled down the window, waved at me, and asked, "Are you going to Tokai University?" "Yes," I replied. "Hop in," he said, "I know your husband." As it turned out, he was the director of our Bekka department. Upon arriving at the university, he would low-key drop me off right in front of the building near the Bekka department. He gave me a ride a few more times after that. I was incredibly grateful to this kind department director; he was a man of great learning and stature, yet he never put on airs with me.

From November 14 to 17, 1989, most of the students from our Tokai University Bekka Japanese class, along with our professors, took the Shinkansen for a study tour to Nara, Kyoto, and Hiroshima.

That evening, we visited the Toshodai-ji Temple, which was founded in 759 AD by the great Tang Dynasty monk, Master Jianzhen. From 742 to 753 AD, braving unimaginable perils, Master Jianzhen attempted the eastern voyage to Japan six times, failing five times due to fierce winds, raging waves, pirates, government interceptions, and shipwrecks. By the time he finally arrived in Japan, he was already 66 years old and completely blind. He made monumental contributions to propagating Buddhism and promoting cultural exchange between China and Japan.

The Todai-ji Temple in Nara Park, built in 728 AD, is the largest wooden structure in the world.  These two large wooden sculpted heads resting on the ground, dating back to the Edo period, possessed incredibly vivid expressions; they are the heads of Zōjō-tennō (the Growth Heavenly King) and Jikoku-tennō (the Dharma-Protecting Heavenly King), though they consist only of the neck and head without bodies. The deer of Nara Park are revered as messengers of the gods. We all bought deer crackers (shika-senbei), feeding this one and then that one—it was wonderful fun.

This group photo was taken at the Horyu-ji Temple in Nara; I am standing on the far left of the very back row. Standing front and center with a broad smile was a highly esteemed old professor from our Bekka, likely the associate director, who was quite humorous. On one occasion during a large lecture class—where students typically never dared to tease a teacher—he made a self-deprecating remark. I couldn't help but call out, "Yappari!" (Just as I thought!). He froze for a second, and that stunned look on his face seemed to say, "Huh? A student actually dares to tease me, and a female student at that?" But he could only offer a helpless, embarrassed smile, while the rest of the class quietly snickered. Of course, he also playfully retaliated later by teasing me that even on crutches, I walked as fast as the wind.

While wandering the streets freely with classmates in Nara during the evening, we saw a shop brilliantly lit up. A row of flower baskets stood before the entrance, banners fluttered, and a loud, clattering clink-clink-clink sound echoed from within, accompanied by excited voices over a loudspeaker. It was incredibly bustling. One often saw such shops in Japan, but I didn't know what they were for. A classmate told me it was called a Pachinko parlor and took me inside to play. After dropping a 500-Yen coin into a small slot on the machine, a handful of steel balls came rolling out with a loud clatter. You feed them into the machine's tray, turn the handle, and the steel balls go shooting upward in a flurry. It was a bit dizzying. They told me to relax my grip and aim the balls toward a single spot, as that gave the balls a chance to fall into the little pockets that blinked open and shut, which would then return several more balls. If you accumulated enough balls, they could be exchanged for cash. That night, we also passed by a strip club. The show was already more than halfway through, but out of curiosity, I followed them inside to take a look. I sat in the very back row. On stage, several women performed solo one after another, almost entirely stark naked. They interacted with the audience, and the performance was highly explicit. The last performer used a burning candle, letting the dripping wax fall onto her skin in a self-punishing display. That was a place where I truly didn't belong.

Perched halfway up Mt. Otowa, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, built in 798 AD, is the oldest temple in Kyoto. Its structure is remarkably ingenious, constructed entirely without a single nail.

The Toei Kyoto Studio Park (Eigamura) is a place where many historical Japanese dramas are filmed. Inside the park, there are replica old streets from the Edo and Meiji periods. By the roadside stood an Edo-period palanquin. It was simple and unadorned—essentially just a wooden bench covered on both sides, the back, and the top with woven mats, topped with a thick wooden pole. It wasn't until decades later, today on October 29, 2026, that I learned from a cyber-expert (the Cyber-Frog) that this palanquin is called a Kago in Japanese, and it was the most authentic mode of transportation for commoners and low-ranking samurai during the Edo period. Looking closely at the photograph again, the two kanji characters for "Kago" (駕籠) were actually written conspicuously on the wall of the building in the background; I just had never connected those words with this dilapidated palanquin before. Sure enough, the moment I sat down on the bench, a local carrier happily came over to lift the palanquin. He wasn't from our class. Someone raised a camera and snapped a photo. Just then, another "carrier" from our class ran over, so another photo was snapped. In a prop-set tea house, I also picked up a teapot and tea bowls, playing the role of the shop mistress pouring tea for guests. When taking the photo with the guard, I tried to draw the waist sword of a gate-guarding samurai, only to have him bring a folding fan snapping down on my wrist with a mock-serious expression on his face. The classmates laughed and giggled, having an absolute wonderful time.

Inside the studio park, there was also a service for taking photos in traditional kimonos. The sample photos were so beautiful they brought to mind the poetic line: "Most beautiful is that gentle drop of the head." At 2,000 Yen a photo, it was a bit expensive—considering a part-time job only earned a little over 500 Yen an hour. Still, I couldn't resist waiting in the long line to take one. When the photograph finally arrived at our home and I opened it, it was shockingly ugly. The women in those sample photos had been meticulously made up with porcelain faces and crimson lips—they were gorgeous. But for those of us waiting in a massive queue, there was absolutely no chance for careful primping. The result turned out looking like a sallow, haggard woman wearing an ill-fitting wig, with an expression that was far from serene. If you think about it, with a huge line waiting, the studio staff were counting cash until their hands grew sore; they had no time to groom you. With the next person waiting to jump on camera, you couldn't settle your mind either—how could anyone look composed and at ease? Furthermore, the kimono looked far too short on my frame. I tore the photograph up immediately.

The Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto, originally built in 1397, was once a vacation villa for a Shogun before becoming a Zen temple. Kinkaku-ji was destroyed by arson in 1950 by a 21-year-old novice monk named Hayashi Yoken, who reportedly did it out of resentment toward society.

Exuding the rich cultural atmosphere of the Tang Dynasty, Nijo Castle was built in 1603 AD as the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The wooden corridors of Nijo Castle are famously known as "nightingale floors"; walking upon them produces a bird-like chirping sound, serving as an alarm system against assassins. The Kara-mon Gate of Nijo Castle is carved and painted to absolute perfection. During this trip, Japanese teachers from the other Bekka classes and students from different classes began to grow familiar with one another. Although we didn't yet know each other's names, people would willingly walk up to join in whenever a photo was being taken. Some photos were candid shots taken by unknown hands; upon returning to school, they were all uniform pasted on a wall, and you could pay a printing fee to retrieve whichever ones you wanted.

I am particularly fond of this photograph, which was a candid shot captured by a teacher I didn't know. Because only a small section of the background building is visible, the location is hard to discern. Everyone is standing on the open ground in front of the structure, seemingly listening to an introduction. A male student from another class behind me and I are both turning our heads to gaze up toward our right, our facial expressions serious. I am wearing a beige stand-collar trench coat left open, revealing a deep blue thin fleece lining over a red sweater draped across my shoulders, with a yellow shirt underneath. A camera is slung around my neck. Although the photo only captures me from the chest up, I look intellectual and dignified, as if my thoughts had been carried back to the past. I was completely unaware of being photographed. That is the magic of a candid shot—it is completely authentic and natural.

The final stop of our study tour was Hiroshima, where we visited the Peace Memorial Museum. Although I had long known that at the end of World War II, U.S. President Truman ordered the military to drop two atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, witnessing the sheer horror in the historical photographs during the visit left me with an incredibly heavy heart. At the exact instant of the atomic blast at 8:15 AM on August 6, 1945, over 100,000 residents of Hiroshima lost their lives, and the city suffered a catastrophic blow. Stepping out of the exhibition hall, I saw a massive flock of peace doves flying freely in Peace Memorial Park, so I walked over to feed them. Wanting to capture the moment, a male student I didn't know from another class walked over and sat down beside me. This was the only time in my entire life that I raised two fingers in a V-sign for a photograph—a heartfelt wish for world peace. One photo is of the building I snapped that was ruined by the atomic bomb, and the other is one I found on the internet showing what the building looked like before it was destroyed. After the atomic blast, only this building remained standing. On August 15, 1945, Japan announced its unconditional surrender. In any war, it is always the ordinary citizens who suffer.

While posing for a photograph in front of the memorial sculpture, a male teacher I didn't know also came over to join me. When a few classmates from different classes gathered for a group photo, our class advisor, Teacher Qi, came rushing over; her body was tilted and her right foot hadn't even touched the ground yet when she was caught by the shutter.

We also traveled to Miyajima in southwestern Hiroshima. This is a photo of me at the entrance of Miyajima, where a deer is actually bowing to me in greeting, caught in a candid shot by someone unknown. I wandered around Daigan-ji Temple. It is said that the Great Torii Gate represents the entrance to the sacred realm, serving to separate the divine domain from the secular world where humans dwell.

On February 18, 1990, we went to visit our class advisor, Teacher Qi, at her home. This is a photo of me and two other classmates walking on our way to her house. Here is Teacher Qi busy working all by herself in the kitchen while we chat in the living room. A total of eight students went to Teacher Qi's house—one from South Korea, one from Thailand, one European, and five from Mainland China—while others couldn't make it due to part-time work or other reasons. To this day, I still keep the written pledge signed by the nine of us, including Teacher Qi. The pledge states that on the second Sunday of August in the year 2000, our class would gather once again in Beijing, China, and it even includes the phone number for the university's International Student Education Center. Every one of us signed our names with absolute solemnity and devotion. On the spot, Teacher Qi went upstairs to her home study and used a copier—or perhaps a FAX machine—to make a photocopy for each of us present. Back then, the year 2000 felt like such a distant date. I do not know how it went for the others, but I broke that promise; after I came to the United States, I lost touch with them entirely. Thinking about it now, I should have at least made a phone call to the university's International Student Education Center in August 2000. I regret it so much...

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第四百三十六篇