Sunday, October 11, 2026

《青春斷代史:1988年,紫羅蘭美髮廳的捲髮、黑絲絨婚紗,與東渡扶桑的紅高粱》

從廣州回到上海後,我報名上了英語課,並開始每天早上去長風公園跟人學習吳氏太極拳,每個月交兩塊錢的學費。老師姓吳,不知是否與吳氏太極拳的正式傳人有所淵源。一起練功的有二十來個人,年紀最大的一位已經八十二歲了,依舊很有精神,他曾說自己的手骨折過,是他自己動手接好的。另一位是一退休的老公安,他對我說,看一個人如果想要快速記住長相,必須立刻抓住其面部特徵,比如臉上某個部位長有痦子或雀斑等。

公園裡還有其他鍛煉的人群。我經常看到一個跟我年紀相仿的姑娘,獨自一人來公園練習太極劍。她的動作非常漂亮,長相、身材和氣質都很好,十分吸引人。漸漸地,我和她認識了,她姓L,是一個非常努力上進的姑娘。後來,我們還一起各花了四十二塊錢的報名費,參加了當時在上海比較有名氣的時裝設計裁剪班。那時聽說美國的人工成本貴,一件手工編織的毛衣能值六十美元。準備出國的人除了上外語課,大都在抓緊學習烹飪、裁剪、按摩等各種生存技能。
其間,我還學了幾回美聲唱法。Z老師是一位從部隊文工團轉業到我們學校的老師,她的聲音嘹亮圓潤。第一次是在學校裡幫我練聲,她教我必須用腹部呼吸,唱歌時要把嘴巴豎著張開,像打哈欠那樣,讓氣流往上,把鼻腔打開,這樣頭部都會產生震動與共鳴。後來,她便請我去她家裡練。當時年少不懂事,跟著她學唱歌,我也沒有送過禮或付過學費。後來,我也將小L介紹到這位Z老師家去學習唱歌。
【幾年後,我給小L介紹了一個美國丈夫。對方是西方人,畢業於美國西點軍校,當時也是在東海大學任教的外教,他過去也曾去過中國,交往過一個中國姑娘,但後來沒能成功。
樓梯在照片的右邊
我們住的那棟二層的日式公寓樓並不在校園內,去學校需要坐電鐵坐兩站路。公寓樓上下各有三套房間,他住在公寓樓東側露天樓梯上來的第一間套房,我們則住在西側頂端的那套。每套公寓一進門是廚房與餐廳在一起的一大間,鋪著洋式的木地板,一側有浴室廁所;走過這間屋子有一扇拉門,後面有兩間各鋪有六個榻榻米的和式屋子,可以分別作為書房和臥室。樓裡幾乎全都住著東海大學的外教。
當小L抵達日本時,我已經離開了日本。還記得那個我在黃山認識、在留學生食堂裡工作、後來幫我領進留學生舞會從而結識了J的小Z嗎?她後來也去了日本。我在信裡介紹初到日本、無親無友的小L與小Z認識,她們因此成了朋友。小Z後來又通過小L,結識了另一位來自加拿大的西方人外教,而那位外教恰好就住在我也曾居住過的那棟公寓樓的底層。他們最終組建了家庭。這一環扣一環的因果,繞不繞?奇不奇怪?後來由於我自身的生活也陷入不穩定,便與她們都失去了聯繫。那都是後話了。】
回頭接著說1988年。記得那一九八八年的第一天,我做了一個夢。夢見了大地震,海水把一艘大船沖到了家門口。我在惶恐中剛想定睛一看,卻醒了。奇怪的是,從此以後,地動山搖、洪水氾濫的驚天動地場面,便頻繁進入了我的夢境。【順便提一句,我是在1988年7月搭船東渡扶桑的。元旦的那場大船與地震之夢,是否正預示著我接下來的東「渡」?去往一個多地震的島國?】
我讓自己隨時保持忙碌,但我仍然感到孤獨,我非常想念J。J之前的兩次婚姻試探——“Maybe we should get married.”——我當時都沒有回答。我不知道該怎麼去回答這個“Maybe”。J後來也沒有再追問,只是在來信中讓我去打聽辦理涉外婚姻的手續和步驟。
我前往相關部門了解到,辦理結婚他需要出具:三張個人照片、帶有照片和編號那一頁的護照複印件、中國簽證,還必須持有一份由他們美國州政府出具、並經中國領事館或大使館認證的公證書,內容需包括姓名、性別、出生日期、出生地點和婚姻狀況(單身證明)。該公證書的有效期僅為六個月。而我則需要提供由派出所出具的戶籍證明,以及由單位出具的單身證明。1988年的1月30日至2月25日是學校放寒假的時間。我必須抓緊時間辦理,否則在寒假期間是找不到負責人開證明的。記得我找單位領導開具單身證明時,周圍的閒言碎語就傳開了,大都在議論男方的年齡大。J比我大十三歲。結婚證書開具出來大約需要等待十天。
1988年3月,J來到了上海。我們前往民政局辦理了結婚登記手續,並做了婚前體檢。
1988年3月11日,是我正式出嫁的日子。那天大清早,我先去了上海著名的紫羅蘭美髮廳燙了頭髮。幫我做頭髮的年輕師傅是朋友介紹認識的。當他把一個個捲髮筒從我頭上取下來、拿起吹風機準備幫我梳理造型時,我從鏡子裡看到那一縷縷、一捲捲富有彈性的頭髮卷兒掛在前額、鬢邊和耳後兩側的脖子上,已經非常好看了。我便對他說:「師傅,不用吹風了,就讓它這樣一捲卷自然垂蕩下來的樣子,蠻好。」我擔心吹了風難免顯得刻板,反而少了些許自然與飄逸。
那種一圈一圈垂下來的捲髮,是我曾經在西方老電影裡看到過的古典髮式。在那些電影的宮廷舞會場景中,女子們身穿上身緊繃、束腰的奢華禮服和大蓬蓬裙,在舞池裡跳著集體舞,耳鬢兩側垂掛著的縷縷髮卷正是這個樣子。我頭髮的樣式雖然沒有那麼精緻,我當時也不是追求精緻,只是打心底裡喜歡那種蓬鬆、飄逸與富有彈性的自然狀態。
當我出門上「轎」(接親的小汽車)時,四哥和五哥開始在門前燃放雙響爆竹和鞭炮。梧桐樹的疏影裡頓時飛揚起爆竹的碎屑,空氣中彌漫著硝煙的味道。J興奮地舉著照相機「咔咔咔」地拍,拍得街坊鄰居與家人都顯得有些不好意思。六哥和他的朋友則開了兩輛單位裡的小汽車來接送我們。
我們在梅隴鎮酒家舉辦了婚宴。我坐的那輛小車後到,J坐的車先到。他用相機抓拍到了兩個小姪女下車時的情景。小姪女當時有些暈車,下車時整個人還暈暈乎乎的;小侄子坐在副駕駛座上,而我當時還坐在後座上。
那天,我穿了一襲黑絲絨的長裙。裙子的領口邊、袖口邊與腰帶邊,點綴著一圈手工縫製的金片和小珠子。右邊胸口、左前方腰圍下方與裙擺處,有手工縫製的彩色金片與亮珠組合而成的精美花卉圖案。長裙外面,我罩了一件大紅色的全羊毛呢大衣。當我一走進梅隴鎮酒家時,就聽到旁邊有兩個年輕的女服務生用上海話小聲嘀咕:「搿個新娘子哪能穿黑顏色?!」(這個新娘子怎麼穿黑顏色?!)在那個年代,以前好友出嫁時從裡到外穿的都是紅色的,據說什麼紅都行,但必須是紅的。不吉利嗎?頭腦簡單的我當時完全沒有在意,覺得不以為然。
餐廳裡,我們那一桌的旁邊坐著三四個西方人,正等著用餐。看到我們在這裡舉辦婚宴,他們顯得很高興。其中一位女士特意給我們端來了一盤服務生剛剛給他們端上桌的松鼠大黃魚,以此作為賀禮。我們也隨即送給他們喜糖,回了禮。
喜宴結束、送走所有的客人後,我也跟著住進了專家樓。第二天,J就必須趕回日本工作了。我送他去碼頭坐船。我獨自站在碼頭上,等待客輪啟航離開。等了很久很久,新買的高跟鞋把我的腳夾得非常疼。
四哥在2022年拍的匯山碼頭佈局似乎還是老樣子
1988年7月16日,我乘坐「鑑真號」客輪去往日本。在上海匯山碼頭登船時,我意外遇到了一位我當年上中專班時的女同學,她恰好也坐這趟船。
她上學時曾是班幹部,比較清高,長得很漂亮,溫文爾雅,也有一米七十頎長的個子,或許比我還要高出一點兒。雖然中專畢業後她也留校在電教所工作,但我們平時並不常往來。我們班裡一共只有八個女生。在我出國前夕,我們其餘七個女生在一同學家聚了聚,她們當時還合送了我一幅孔雀圖案的羊毛掛毯。
客輪上的小賣部入口處,挂著一件標價一萬多日元的毛巾浴衣。我當時看著,暗自慶幸自己隨身帶著的那件全棉毛巾浴衣只花了十四元人民幣。為了防止暈船,多數時間我都在船體中線部位的鋪位上躺著。比起大唐高僧鑑真和尚六次東渡、五次失敗的艱難,我的這趟遠航簡直是一帆風順,一路上連狂風怒濤都沒有遇到,更別說海盜、觸礁或官府追截了。我們是星期六中午十二點出發的,抵達大阪港時,已經是星期一的中午十二點了。
J租了一輛小車,開到大阪港來接我。當晚,我們入住了一家日本典型的民宿。沿途我們還去了一些地方遊玩。記得在開車途中,J轉過頭對我說:「唱首歌吧。」在黃山時他曾聽我哼過一段費加洛的詠嘆調,這時,我居然開口唱的是1987年電影《紅高粱》裡的插曲:
「嘿~~妹妹你大膽地往前走哇,往前走,莫回呀頭!通天的大路九千九百,九千九百九哇!」
估計我那粗獷的歌聲,聽得他心裡直犯嘀咕。我當時也沒跟他解釋這句歌詞的大意。興許,這首歌曲正完完全全表明了我當時的心聲:三十多歲了,獨自一人出國闖蕩,我需要這首歌來鼓勵自己——大膽地往前走。
許多年後的2011年7月,我們闊別了三十年的中專班同學重新取得了聯繫。當年和我一起坐船去日本的那位女同學,特意給我發來了一封電子郵件。她在信中寫道:
「我有個謝意,二十幾年來一直沒有機會表達,今天總算得到了妳的聯繫方法……記得在1988年7月16日,我們倆是一起坐『鑑真號』船離開上海去日本的。抵達大阪港後,妳先生已經在那裡等妳了,我當時羨慕極了……可是接我的人沒有來,我急壞了。我用了五百塊日圓,在港口一個不找錢的電話機上打電話給學校(後來才知道其實只要十塊日圓就可以了)。我當時不知道日本電話的撥打方法,弄來弄去,大約花了三十分鐘才把電話打通。而妳當時沒有馬上和妳先生離開。妳擔心我萬一聯繫不上學校會遇到困難,有妳和妳先生在,也許還可以幫上點忙。妳就一直那樣耐心地等著我跟學校聯絡……時間的流逝沒有帶走我當年的感激心情,那情景牢牢地印在我的記憶裡。在此,請接受我這封遲到了二十三年的謝意!」
收到她的郵件後,我隨後寫了回信。我在信中對她說:「妳的第一封Email使我流淚,這封卻又讓我在夜深人靜中笑出了聲。給我的感覺如今的妳相當謙虛,在我的印象中妳以前真有些公主般的高傲呢;背著相機在校園裡當女記者的矜持、酷酷的形象令人羨慕。
說來奇怪,昨天,也就是妳的第一封Email之前的那個晚上,我做了一個在日本的夢,要去三個地方(夢裡反覆出現過三個地名),記得一個是六本木、一個是我原來住過的地方神奈川的伊勢原,另外一個好像是相模原。我要上一個很陡的高坡去見一個過去的朋友,女的,高挑靚麗,但是錯過了車,沒見著,電話接通了,但又沒聯繫上。
奇怪嗎?我經常做夢的第二天,世間發生的事兒總帶有夢中的信息。前兩天我做了一個有關航天飛機的夢,第二天就從新聞節目中眼看著中國的神八飛船發射。雖然夢裡的是飛船事故,兩個宇航員跳傘,一個掉在了我家的陽台上,我還參與了救護打911(報警電話)。呵呵~有好多問題要問,但得忍著點兒,細水長流,以後再聊。」
後來我了解到,這位同船共濟的班幹部同學,她的奶奶竟然也同樣是旗人。在2015年的郵件中,我還曾跟她開玩笑說:「我想,咱倆還一定是有緣分的。我們註定是要遇上的。你想啊,要是還是大清,咱們倆肯定會碰上。因為躲不過旗人每三年一次選秀的。像妳這樣出挑的,一定會被選上。我也可能被留在宮裡做個真正的繡女。嘻嘻~」
正如我2009年電子筆記裡寫下的那段話:「船到達大阪,看到前來接我的家人,我的搭伴黯然傷感;雖說都是新婚燕爾,可一聚一散將演繹出多少悲歡離合的故事……」那時她隻身一人前來日本,新婚的丈夫被留在了上海。
命運的因果在幾十年間悄然嚙合。那些失散在歷史狂風裡的清高、孤傲、大船之夢與手心戒尺,最終在二十一世紀的電子信箋裡細水長流。大宅門不倒,血脈至今落鎖,我們終究是在文字的世界裡,大膽地往前走,完成了最圓滿的重逢。

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Chronicles of Youth: 1988—The Curls at Violet Salon, Black Velvet Wedding Dress, and "Red Sorghum" Eastward Across the Sea

Upon returning to Shanghai from Guangzhou, I enrolled in English classes and began going to Changfeng Park every morning to study Wu-style Taiqi Quan, paying a tuition fee of two RMB per month. The instructor’s surname was Wu; I remain unaware of whether he shared any lineage with the official masters of the style. Our practice group consisted of roughly twenty individuals; the eldest among us was eighty-two years of age but remained exceptionally spirited, noting that when he once fractured his own arm, he had set the bone back in place himself. Another participant was a retired public security officer. He told me that if one wished to quickly memorize a face, one must immediately seize upon a distinct feature, such as a mole or freckles on a specific part of the countenance.
There were other groups exercising within the park. I frequently observed a young woman near my own age who came to the park alone to practice Taiqi Jian (swordplay). Her movements were exceptionally beautiful, and she possessed fine looks, a good figure, and a refined bearing that drew much attention. Gradually, I became acquainted with her; her surname was L, and she was a highly diligent and aspiring young woman. Later, we each paid a registration fee of forty-two RMB to enroll in a fashion design and tailoring class that was quite well-known in Shanghai at the time. Word circulated then that manual labor was expensive in the United States, and a single hand-knitted sweater could fetch sixty dollars. Those preparing to depart the country, aside from taking foreign language classes, were mostly rushing to acquire practical survival skills such as cooking, tailoring, and massage.
During this period, I also took several lessons in bel canto singing. Master Z was an instructor who had transferred to our institution after being discharged from a military performing arts troupe; her voice was resonant and rounded. During our first session at the school to train my voice, she instructed me that I must utilize abdominal breathing. When singing, the mouth had to be opened vertically, precisely as one does when yawning, directing the airflow upward to open the nasal cavity, which generated vibrations and resonance throughout the head. Later, she invited me to her home to practice. Young and ignorant of the world back then, I studied singing under her without ever offering a gift or paying tuition. Afterward, I introduced Little L to this same instructor’s home to study singing as well.
[Years later, I introduced Little L to an American husband. He was a Westerner who had graduated from the United States Military Academy at West Point; at the time, he was also a foreign instructor teaching at Tokai University. He had previously traveled to China and courted a Chinese woman, though that relationship had ultimately failed to realize.
That two-story Japanese-style apartment building where we lived was not located on the campus; reaching the university required riding the electric railway for two stations. The building contained three separate suites on each floor, upstairs and down. He occupied the first suite immediately at the top of the exterior open-air staircase on the eastern side of the building, while we resided in the westernmost suite at the far end. Upon entering each apartment, one found a large room combining the kitchen and dining area, with a bathroom and toilet situated along one side. Passing through this room led to a sliding door, behind which lay two Japanese-style rooms, each floored with six tatami mats, which could serve as a study and a bedroom. Virtually all the residents within the building were foreign instructors teaching at Tokai University.
By the time Little L arrived in Japan, I had already departed the country. Do you recall Little Z, whom I had met at Mount Huang, who worked in the international student cafeteria and later brought me into the foreign students' dance where I met J? She had relocated to Japan as well. Through my letters, I introduced Little L—who was newly arrived in Japan without a single friend or relative—to Little Z, and they became close friends. Little Z subsequently utilized her connection with Little L to meet another Western foreign instructor from Canada, who happened to reside on the ground floor of the very same teaching dormitory building where I had once lived. They ultimately established a family together. Is this causal chain not remarkably winding and peculiar? Later, as my own circumstances grew unstable, I lost contact with both of them. But that is an afterthought.]
Returning to the timeline of 1988: I remember that very first day of 1988. I experienced a dream of a massive earthquake, where the ocean waters crashed a gargantuan ship straight to our front door. Terrified, I focused my eyes only to realize it was a dream. Peculiarly, from that moment forward, cataclysmic scenes of shifting earth, shaking mountains, and raging floods frequently invaded my dreamscapes. [I might mention that on July 16, 1988, I boarded a vessel to cross the sea eastward to Japan. Did that New Year’s dream of a massive ship and an earthquake precisely foretell my subsequent eastward "crossing" to an island nation prone to earthquakes?]
I kept myself continuously busy, yet I remained consumed by loneliness, missing J intensely. Regarding J’s two prior marriage probings—"Maybe we should get married"—I had offered no answer at the time. I simply did not know how to respond to that "Maybe." J did not pursue the question further afterward, but merely instructed me in his letters to inquire about the procedures and steps for registering an international marriage.
Upon inquiring with the relevant authorities, I learned that for the marriage registration, he needed to produce three personal photographs, a photocopy of the passport page bearing his photograph and number, a Chinese visa, and a certificate of notary public issued by his state government in the United States and authenticated by the Chinese consulate or embassy. This document had to verify his name, gender, date of birth, place of birth, and marital status (a certificate of singleness), and its validity was strictly limited to six months. For my part, I was required to provide a household registration certificate issued by the local police station and a certificate of single status issued by my work unit. The school’s winter break ran from January 30 to February 25. I had to rush to complete these matters, as it would be impossible to find the responsible officials once the vacation commenced. I recall that when I approached the unit leadership to obtain the single status certificate, idle gossip began to circulate immediately, mostly murmuring about the groom’s advanced age. J was thirteen years senior to me. The marriage certificate itself required a waiting period of roughly ten days to be issued.
In March 1988, J arrived in Shanghai. We proceeded to the civil affairs bureau to complete the marriage registration procedures and underwent the pre-marital medical examination.
March 11, 1988, was the day of my official marriage. Early that morning, I went to the famous Violet Hair Salon in Shanghai to have my hair permed. The young stylist who worked on my hair had been introduced to me by a friend. When he removed the rollers from my head one by one and picked up the blow dryer to style it, I looked into the mirror and saw those bouncy curls hanging gracefully across my forehead, temples, and behind my ears on both sides of my neck. It already looked exceptionally fine. I turned to him and said, "Master, there is no need to blow-dry it. The way it hangs naturally in these curls is quite good." I worried that utilizing the dryer would inevitably make it look rigid, robbing it of its natural, flowing grace.
Those curls hanging down row after row represented a classical western hairstyle I had observed in old foreign cinema. In the court ball scenes of those films, women dressed in lavish, corseted gowns with tight bodices and billowing hoop skirts performed formation dances across the ballroom, their hair styled precisely in that fashion. My own hair was by no means that meticulously refined, nor was I seeking refinement at that moment; I simply loved the voluminous, flowing, and bouncy nature of that natural state.
When I stepped out the door to enter the "bridal carriage" (the wedding car), my fourth and fifth brothers began detonating double-bang firecrackers and strings of small firecrackers in front of the gate. Amidst the sparse shadows of the phoenix trees, fragments of the firecrackers flew through the air, and the smell of gunpowder filled the breeze. J excitedly raised his camera, snapping photos with a barrage of clicks, which made the neighbors and family members feel quite self-conscious. My sixth brother and his friend drove two small cars borrowed from their work units to handle our transportation.
We held our wedding banquet at the Meilongzhen Restaurant. The car I occupied arrived later, while the car J rode in reached the venue first. He caught a candid photograph of my two young nieces as they stepped out of the vehicle. My nieces were suffering from car sickness at the moment, stepping onto the pavement thoroughly dazed; my young nephew sat in the front passenger seat, while I remained in the rear.
That day, I wore a long black velvet dress. The borders of the neckline, cuffs, and belt were adorned with a row of hand-sewn gold sequins and tiny beads. Across the right breast, below the left front waistline, and along the hemline were exquisite floral patterns assembled from hand-sewn colored sequins and bright beads. Over the gown, I wore a bright red coat of pure wool cloth. The moment I stepped inside the Meilongzhen Restaurant, I overheard two young female servers murmuring in Shanghainese: "How can this bride wear black?!" In that era, whenever my friends had married, they wore red from the inside out; it was said that any shade of red would suffice, but it absolutely had to be red.
Was it a harbiner of ill fortune? Simple-minded as I was, I paid it no heed at the time, remaining entirely indifferent.
Inside the dining room, a group of three or four Westerners sat at the table adjacent to ours, waiting for their meal. Upon seeing us hosting our wedding banquet there, they appeared highly delighted. One of the ladies personally carried over a platter of Squirrel-Shaped Mandarin Fish that the server had just set upon their table, presenting it to us as a wedding gift. We immediately returned the gesture by presenting them with wedding candies.
After the banquet concluded and all the guests had been sent away, I moved into the Foreign Experts Building alongside him. The following day, J had to rush back to Japan for work. I accompanied him to the wharf to see him off onto the passenger ship. I stood alone upon the pier, waiting a very long time for the steamer to depart. My newly purchased high-heeled shoes pinched my feet terribly.
On July 16, 1988, I boarded the Jianzhen passenger liner to travel to Japan. While boarding at the Shanghai Huishan Wharf, I unexpectedly encountered a female classmate from my technical certificate program who happened to be taking the same voyage. 
During our school years, she had served as a class monitor and possessed a somewhat aloof reserve; she was remarkably beautiful, gentle, and elegant, standing with a slender, tall stature of 1.7 meters, perhaps even a bit taller than myself. Although she was also assigned to remain at the school to work within the Audio-Visual Education Institute after graduation, we did not associate frequently in our daily lives. There were only eight female students in our entire class. On the eve of my departure from the country, seven of us gathered together for a farewell, and they presented me with a wool tapestry featuring a peacock pattern as a joint gift.
Near the entrance of the ship’s small commissary hung a terrycloth bathrobe priced at over ten thousand yen. Looking at it, I secretly rejoiced that the pure cotton terrycloth robe I carried with me had cost merely fourteen RMB. To prevent seasickness, I spent the majority of the voyage lying down in a berth located along the ship’s centerline. Compared to the hardships of the Great Tang monk Jianzhen, who crossed the sea six times and failed five times, my long voyage was entirely smooth sailing; we encountered not a single gale or wild wave along the way, to say nothing of pirates, running aground, or pursuit by government officials. We departed at twelve noon on Saturday, and by the time we reached the Port of Osaka, it was twelve noon on Monday.
J had rented an automobile and drove to the Port of Osaka to receive me. That evening, we stayed at a typical Japanese minshuku (guesthouse). Along our route, we visited several locations. I recall that while he was driving, J turned his head toward me and said, "Sing a song." At Mount Huang, he had heard me humming a segment of an aria from The Marriage of Figaro; this time, I opened my mouth and sang loudly the theme from the 1987 film Red Sorghum:
"Hey, sister, stride boldly forward! Forward you go, never turn your head! The road to heaven has nine thousand, nine hundred, nine hundred and ninety-nine…"
I suppose my coarse singing voice left his mind thoroughly bewildered. I offered no explanation of the lyrics' meaning to him at the time. In truth, that song precisely articulated my innermost voice back then: entering my thirties, venturing abroad alone, I required that very song to encourage myself—to stride boldly forward.
Many years later, in July 2011, our technical program classmates reestablished contact after thirty years of absence. The woman who had taken the ship to Japan alongside me sent an email. In her letter, she wrote:

"I possess a debt of gratitude that I have lacked an opportunity to express for over twenty years, and today I have finally obtained your contact details... I remember that on July 16, 1988, the two of us boarded the Jianzhen together to leave Shanghai for Japan. Upon arriving at the Port of Osaka, your husband was already there waiting for you, and I was filled with envy... However, the person who was supposed to receive me failed to arrive, and I panicked. I used a 500-yen coin in a non-changing public telephone at the port to call the school (only later did I learn it actually required a mere 10 yen). I didn't know how to use a Japanese telephone back then, and after fumbling about, it took roughly thirty minutes to finally get through. Yet you did not depart immediately with your husband. You worried that if I failed to contact the school, I would face difficulties, and reasoned that with you and your husband present, perhaps you could offer some assistance. You remained there, waiting patiently until I completed my contact with the school... The passage of time has not carried away my gratitude from that day; that scene remains firmly stamped within my memory. Please accept this expression of gratitude, twenty-three years late!"
Upon receiving her message, I penned a reply, stating to her:
"Your first email brought tears to my eyes, but this one made me laugh aloud in the dead of night. It feels to me that you are remarkably modest now; in my memory, you used to possess a touch of princess-like haughtiness. Your reserved, cool demeanor as a female journalist walking the campus with a camera slung over your shoulder was thoroughly enviable.
Strangely enough, yesterday—the very evening prior to your first email arriving—I experienced a dream set in Japan. I was trying to reach three specific locations that surfaced repeatedly in the dream: one was Roppongi, another was Isehara in Kanagawa where I once resided, and the third seemed to be Sagamihara. I was attempting to ascend a very steep slope to meet a friend from the past—a woman, tall and beautiful—but I missed the vehicle and failed to see her. The telephone call went through, yet we never established a connection.
Is it not peculiar? Frequently, the day following my dreams, events unfolding in the physical world bear the exact information from those visions. A couple of days ago, I dreamed of a space shuttle, and the very next day, I watched the broadcast of China’s Shenzhou-8 spacecraft launch. Though in the dream it was a shuttle accident with two astronauts parachuting down, one landing upon our balcony, and myself assisting in the rescue and dialing 911. I have countless questions to ask you, but I must restrain myself; let our words flow like a steady, gentle stream, and we shall converse more in the days ahead."
I subsequently discovered that her grandmother, too, was of Manchu banner lineage. In an email correspondence from 2015, I joked with her: "I believe there must be a destined connection between the two of us; we were bound to cross paths. Consider it—had the Great Qing Dynasty endured, we would have certainly met. There would be no evading the imperial draft for banner girls held every three years. With your exceptional appearance, you would have undoubtedly been selected. As for me, I might have been retained within the palace to serve as a genuine embroiderer."
It perfectly aligns with the entry I recorded within my digital journal back in 2009: "When the vessel reached Osaka and she saw my family member arriving to receive me, my traveling companion was consumed by a profound, silent sorrow. Though both of us were newlyweds embarking on fresh marriages, this single moment of crossing paths—one being received while the other was left waiting—was destined to play out countless narratives of joy, sorrow, parting, and reunion..." At that time, she had journeyed to Japan entirely alone, her newlywed husband left behind in Shanghai.
The causal gears of destiny meshed quietly across the decades. The haughtiness, the tall statures, the New Year's dreams of massive vessels, and the hand-carved brass rulers scattered by the historical gales finally reunited within the text of these electronic letters, flowing like a gentle, endless stream. With the ancestral foundations remaining unyielding and our lineages firmly anchored, we continue, after all, to stride boldly forward through the realm of words, achieving the ultimate, flawless reunion.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第三百八十八篇

Friday, October 9, 2026

《青春斷代史:1987年盛夏,海南島的軟翡翠海水、沙灘帳篷與第二次婚姻試探》

1987年5月,我夜大畢業了,寒窗苦讀了五年。成績很不理想,總報告單上沒有優,只有七個良,三個中,五個及格,兩個補考及格,一個合格。本來我的文科就不是強項,當初是考進了夜大數學系的。為了躲避一段情,我一開始就轉讀了中文系,結果最終還是沒能躲掉這段情,栽了大跟頭。看來,命是躲不掉的。然而,這個跟頭也逼得我不得不把目光看得遠了,心思不再放在眼前的一畝三分地上了。

同年6月24日,是我們同學的畢業聚會。每個人都帶了一份小禮物放在一個大紙箱裡,聚會結束時,大家會從紙箱裡隨機抽取一個。禮物大都是杯子、筆記本之類的,我現在不記得自己給的是什麼,也不記得自己拿的是什麼了。也許我們彼此不太了解,這小禮物就沒有意義;也許我們已經熟悉,請讓我留在你心裡。五年下來,班上80%的同學我其實都不認識。
1987年7月17日上午8點半,我跳上了開往廣州的49次列車,從上海北站出發,去廣州與J相會。一個月前他便說要來看我,問我是去三亞還是去陽朔。這兩個地方我當時都沒去過,我擔心去陽朔需要爬山,就選了三亞。我買了硬臥票,睡中鋪,在車上待了三十個小時左右。對面上下鋪有兩個做生意的上海年輕人,很健談。他們說做生意並不難,他們從廣州採購服裝物資到上海出售,僅僅三年就發財了。真是撐死膽大的,餓死膽小的。那時一般人還不敢放棄體制內的鐵飯碗下海做生意。
抵達廣州後,我在中山大學招待所住了一晚。那時候出差住宿必須憑單位的介紹信。中山大學校園裡有一棟樓,從正門進去下了一層樓,由後門出來時,眼前不再是平坦的地面,竟然是一道順坡下山的台階。這個突變讓在平原長大的我吃驚不小,有一種一腳踏空的錯覺。
南園酒家 1987年7月
7月20日晚上6點半,我在中國大酒店跟從澳門轉道而來的J見了面。隨後,我們去了位於珠江河畔的北京大酒店進餐,之後又去了南園酒家的酒吧坐了坐。走出酒吧,街燈朦朧,晚風習習,我們又沿著珠江散步。
第二天早上7點,我們登上了去海南島的客輪。鳴笛啟航後,船緩緩駛出了港口。遊客們站在甲板上遠眺,城市的輪廓漸漸地從視野中消失,只有海鷗還在船尾盤旋。J帶了一個精美的索尼(SONY)隨身聽送給我。聽著音樂,眼前浩淼的南海碧空萬里,白雲舒捲,心中好不舒暢。
不知不覺中,晚風盈袖,霞光燦爛。船在海上顛簸了一夜。我們的客艙裡有兩張上下鋪的床,一共睡四個人。J睡在上鋪,我睡在同一側的下鋪。
次日清晨七點走出船艙,不少乘客已經在甲板上了。月亮還掛在天上,太陽遲遲不肯露面。漸漸地,東方海平線上的天空紅成了一片,太陽才姍姍地浮出水面。通紅通紅的、雍雍容容的、朦朦朧朧的,像是一個睡美人。太陽離開水面的那一瞬間,略帶著楚楚動人的慵懶與不情願。升高後的太陽彷彿是一個睡醒了的剛毅男子,他似乎有點怪罪我們窺視了他不想讓人看到的媚態,慢慢地發出耀眼的光芒,刺得還在注視著他的人們睜不開眼睛。太陽不僅擁有女性的柔美,更具男性的威力。遠遠的海平線彎成了一條弧,美不勝收。
太陽刺眼不能再看了,我便低頭看海水。不料,這一低頭,卻發現我們的客輪正在無情地將清澈如綢緞般柔軟光滑的海水撕裂沖破。那些被強行分離的海水,剎那間像軟翡翠一樣,被大塊大塊地撞離船體,向外倒飛出去,同時分崩離析化為水珠浪花。在船行過去之後,那些被強行沖開的海水便急不可耐地相擁在一起,彷彿在訴說著別離的痛苦與無奈。此時,我心中的輕鬆豪邁消失了,興奮也減退了,取而代之的是長時間的沉寂和惆悵。
海南島就在眼前但我有點捨不得下船
Hainan Island is right before my eyes
yet I’m somewhat reluctant to disembark
上下照片是海口街景
The photos above and below show street scenes in Haikou
7月22日晚上,我們在海口華僑大廈過夜。我和其他五個女性住在一間集體宿舍般的457號房間。第二天早上,我去了J的房間,居然驚奇地發現他住在一間臨時改用作睡房的會議室裡,有八個西方人男女混住。本來西方人就人高馬大,加上背包行李,把一間大屋子撐得滿滿當噹。
7月23日中午,天氣炎熱。我們坐上了擁擠、車窗敞開著的長途汽車,一路顛簸了好幾個小時前往三亞。
大東海酒店 1987年7月
下午5點左右,我們到達了僅有三層樓高的大東海賓館。入住者大都是金髮碧眼的西方人。我們被前台告知客房已滿,服務台建議我們在沙灘上的帳篷裡先住上一夜,第二天就有空房間了。
令我驚訝的是,到了這裡真是山高皇帝遠,前台竟然沒有要我們出示結婚證。我主動拿出我的工作證時,服務生似乎也沒看,還讓我們登記住在同一個帳篷裡。簡直難以置信。在客房前台辦理入住時,我的頭一直抬不起來,心裡忐忑,臉紅到了脖子根。畢竟,這是我第一次與男朋友在外面開房住宿。
棕櫚樹下的海灘上有一排大約十來頂帳篷。放下行李,我們就撲向了大海。海岸呈弧形,白色的沙灘被婆娑的棕櫚環繞。在長途汽車上顛簸了一下午、蓬頭垢面的我們,實在無法形容接觸到大海時的剎那喜悅。沙灘上遊人不多,風平浪靜,水溫也剛好。這是我第一次在大海裡游泳。1983年暑假我參加單位工會旅遊,在普陀山的千步沙那次,我們僅僅是在淺淺的、剛沒過腳面的水裡走了走,穿著泳裝趴在淺水灘上拍張照片而已。但在大東海完全不一樣了,天是那麼藍,身邊的J看起來似乎也挺帥。
第一次入海水,海浪一來我便跟著倒,連滾帶爬地很是狼狽。J教我,在浪頭過來的剎那,只要輕輕地向上一抬身子就行了。左右看看,還真是這樣,連小孩子都會。我們站在齊腰深的水中,每當海浪襲來時,我都會控制不住地驚呼著、興奮地跳起來,那水浪從身子周圍湧過,非常舒服。
沙灘上有穿著漂亮服飾的少數民族姑娘跟遊客拍照,兩塊錢一張。也有一些中年婦女四處找外國遊客兌換外匯。天漸漸黑了,我們上了岸,在餐廳裡吃了一頓海鮮。餐後我們又回到沙灘上,在夜幕下聽濤。有巡邏的保安用手電筒在水面上搜尋,確保沒有人在夜間的水中。
我們都精疲力盡,很快J就睡著了。帳篷頂上有一個紗窗,月光將棕櫚樹的疏影映在帳篷上。海水嘩嘩地拍打著沙灘,濤聲催人入眠。海風徐徐舞動著椰子樹,卻就是吹不進我們的帳篷。帳篷裡又悶又熱,怕蚊子,又不敢打開帳篷門睡覺。突然,一隻蜥蜴爬上了帳篷頂,細長的尾巴擺動著。我是在大城市長大的,沒見過這場景,四腳蛇這個名字聽著就夠滲人的。我馬上起來將帳篷門關嚴實。不一會兒,又爬來了一隻蜥蜴。我驚恐地注視著牠們,希望牠們能消失,不敢想偏想,萬一牠們溜進了帳篷……不由得身上起了一層雞皮疙瘩。J醒來後說不用怕,牠們不傷人。
幸運的是,第二天早上我們便搬進了219客房,陽台正對著大海。這是我第一次入住高檔酒店。不用再擔心蜥蜴了,放下行李,早餐後我們去小鎮附近轉了轉。
當時有三輪車服務載著遊客遊覽景點
There were tricycle services that took tourists around to see the sights
那時的三亞質樸無華,水上的木結構小樓雖然簡陋,但風光宜人。回到沙灘上時間還早,沿著海灣走走,空曠的沙灘上有一群悠閒的牛。當日頭高照,海水中有了戲水者的喧囂聲。我們又抓起大沙灘巾回到了沙灘上、海水裡、然後躺在沙灘上曬太陽。
天黑後,J居然提出要去裸泳(skinny dipping)!這對我來說簡直是天方夜譚!黑暗的大海和隆隆的濤聲令人望而止步,儘管我內心深處還真有一點蠢蠢欲動。但夜間游泳安保會抓,我的水性也差,我害怕了。他一個人躍入了大海,一絲不掛,而且越游越遠,最終游出了我的視野。留下我一個人坐在沙灘上,擔驚受怕,胡思亂想。如果……如果他出事了,我該怎麼辦?
果然,巡邏的保安來了,用手電筒在水面上來回搜索了一通,但沒有發現遠處的J。當他精神抖擻地上岸後,居然要在沙灘上野合!這簡直就是瘋狂!在月光下的海水中,無遮無攔,自由自在地暢遊,那該是多麼美好的時光,而我卻膽怯了、錯過了。心裡帶著一絲內疚,我便順從了他。但我全程被緊張、恐懼與羞澀之心控制著,儘管這時附近的沙灘上沒有其他人,但感覺周圍似乎到處都是眼睛,連天上的星星也一眨不眨地盯著我們。
7月25日,我們去了天涯海角。一路上有不少小攤位賣水果,許多品種我都不認識。賣椰子的用刀幫我們把椰子砍開了口子,插上吸管一吸,清淡略帶甘甜的椰汁就流進了嘴裡。天涯海角的沙灘上有小孩子兜售紀念品,也有男人在拉客騎駱駝。
7月26日12點半,我們乘車離開三亞返回海口。晚上7點半,搭乘飛機回到廣州。那是我第一次坐飛機。在飛機上我感到身體不舒服,穿上了所有的衣服仍然冷得發抖。我知道自己要發燒了,那時心想有一片阿斯匹靈就好了。
回到廣州中國大酒店時,我病得很重,幾乎站不起來。前台服務生同情我的遭遇,允許我直接住在J的客房裡。我倒在床上,蓋上房裡能找到的任何東西。J跑出去幫我找藥,但太晚了,街上沒有一家藥店還開著門。最後,他在飯店大廳裡四處詢問客人,終於要到了兩顆藥。他給我倒了一杯熱水,我吃了一顆藥,躺在床上蜷縮著身體等待發汗。
很快我就感覺到了熱,熱得難以忍受。我知道這是關鍵時刻,不能讓自己在這個時候著涼,所以我把自己裹得嚴嚴實實的。我的身體很燙,血液像是在沸騰。最後在夜裡,我終於出汗了,床單都被汗水濕透。等到體溫恢復正常後,我洗了個熱水澡,感覺好多了。
第二天中午時分我醒了,說的第一句話就是:「我餓了。」
「很好,如果你餓了,那就說明你正在好轉。」J說。
他必須在當天下午2點離開廣州,經香港返回日本。在他登上開往香港的噴射快艇之前,我們坐在碼頭附近的一家餐廳裡。我身體仍然很虛弱。
「對不起,寶貝,」J說,「我得走了,但妳還病著。我希望能和妳待得更久一些。」他抓住我的手說:「我會想念你的,寶貝。」
那一刻,我想起了蘇聯電影《鄉村女教師》裡的一句台詞,便憂傷地脫口而出:「我們總是分離的。」
J在分手的最後一刻看著我,說道:“Maybe we should get married.”(也許我們應該結婚)。
J走了,快艇把他帶去了外面的自由世界。他還會回來嗎?我獨自留在碼頭,感到無比虛弱和悲傷。寒意再次席捲了我的身體,很快我回到酒店躺在床上,昨晚高燒的經歷再次襲來。這一次更厲害,我開始咳嗽,身邊再也沒有人給我端一杯熱水。J,你在哪裡?我想你。我在黑暗而孤獨的床上默默地哭了。又冷又熱,渾身發抖,我哭得很慘,感到非常難受。我非常想念J,看著他的照片,心裡才稍微平靜了一些。
第二天,我獨自搭乘火車回上海。這兩天在火車上的路途極其艱難。我很虛弱,怕冷,需要躺下,但我坐的是硬座車廂,沒有臥鋪床位。我需要被子保暖,但我沒有。我病得很重,無法忍受風吹,但炎熱的夏日裡,火車所有的窗子都大開著。我只能把自己縮成一團。
那時我想,這十四天裡,我去過天堂,也肯定到過地獄。海南島留下了我的不少第一次,但人生路途上,還有多少個第一次在等待著……
Maybe we should get married.

**********************************

Chronicles of Youth: Midsummer 1987—The Soft Jade Waters of Hainan, Beach Tents, and The Second Marriage Proposal

In May 1987, I graduated from the evening university, concluding five years of bitter study. My grades were far from ideal; the final transcript bore not a single "Excellent," containing merely seven "Goods," three "Fairs," five "Passes," two "Passes after re-examination," and one "Qualified." Liberal arts had never been my strength; I had originally passed the entrance examination for the evening university’s mathematics department. To escape a certain romantic entanglement, I had transferred midway to the Chinese department, yet in the end, I failed to evade it anyway and suffered a heavy fall. It seems destiny cannot be bypassed. Yet, this setback forced me to look further ahead, pulling my mind away from my immediate square inch of existence.
On June 24 of that same year, we held our class graduation gathering. Everyone brought a small gift to place inside a large cardboard box; at the conclusion of the party, each person drew one out at random. The presents consisted mostly of mugs and notebooks; I no longer recall what I gave or what I drew. Perhaps because we did not truly know one another, these small gifts carried little meaning; or perhaps we had already grown familiar—please let me remain within your heart. After five years, I remained unacquainted with eighty percent of my classmates.
At 8:30 on the morning of July 17, 1987, I boarded Train 49 bound for Guangzhou, departing from the Shanghai North Railway Station to rendezvous with J. A month prior, he had stated his intention to visit me, inquiring whether we should travel to Sanya or Yangshuo. I had visited neither location at the time; worried that Yangshuo would require mountain climbing, I selected Sanya. I purchased a hard-sleeper ticket, occupying the middle berth, and remained aboard the train for roughly thirty hours. The two young Shanghainese businessmen occupying the berths opposite me were highly talkative. They remarked that commerce was not difficult; they procured garments in Guangzhou to sell in Shanghai, making their fortunes in a mere three years. Truly, the bold gorge themselves while the timid starve. At that time, ordinary citizens still lacked the courage to abandon their state-secured iron rice bowls to plunge into private business.
Upon reaching Guangzhou, I stayed one night at the Sun Yat-sen University guesthouse. In those years, securing lodging required an official introductory letter from one's work unit. There was a building on the Sun Yat-sen University campus where one entered through the main doors, descended one floor, and exited through the rear doors, only to find that the ground ahead was no longer flat. Instead, a flight of stone steps led straight down the slope of a hill. This sudden transition startled me, having been raised on the flat plains, evoking a brief illusion of stepping into mid-air.
At 6:30 on the evening of July 20, I met J, who had traveled by way of Macau, at the China Hotel. Afterward, we dined at the Beijing Hotel situated along the banks of the Pearl River, and subsequently stopped at the bar of the Nanyuan Hotel. Emerging from the bar, the streetlights were hazy and a gentle evening breeze blew; we strolled along the Pearl River.
At 7:00 the following morning, we boarded the passenger steamer to Hainan Island. The horn sounded, and the vessel slowly departed the port. Passengers stood on the deck gazing back as the city’s skyline gradually receded from view, leaving only seagulls circling the stern. J had brought an exquisite SONY Walkman as a present for me. Listening to the music, the vast South China Sea stretched clear for thousands of miles beneath drifting white clouds, bringing immense ease to my heart.
Unknowingly, the evening wind filled our sleeves as the sunset flared brilliantly. The ship rolled through the waves all night. Our cabin contained two sets of bunk beds, accommodating four passengers in total. J occupied the upper berth, while I slept in the lower berth on the same side.
When I stepped out of the cabin at seven the next morning, many passengers were already gathered on the deck. The moon still hung in the sky, and the sun seemed reluctant to show itself. Gradually, the eastern horizon turned a solid crimson before the sun finally emerged, slowly floating above the water—deep red, majestic, and hazy, like a sleeping beauty. The exact moment the sun broke from the water’s surface carried a delicate, visible laziness and reluctance. As it climbed higher, it transformed into the likeness of a resolute, newly awakened man, appearing slightly displeased that we had witnessed the soft charm he wished to keep hidden, slowly casting an intense radiance that blinded those who continued to stare. The sun possessed not only feminine grace but also masculine power. The distant horizon curved into a sweeping arc, beautiful beyond description.
The sun grew too bright to look at, so I turned my gaze down toward the sea. Looking down, I discovered our steamer was ruthlessly tearing and breaking through the water, which was clear and soft like silk fabric. Those forcibly separated waters were instantly struck away from the hull in large blocks like soft jade, shattering into droplets and foam as they flew outward. Once the ship passed, the waters that had been violently forced apart rushed impatiently to embrace one another again, as if recounting the pain and helplessness of their separation. At that moment, my sense of ease and grandeur vanished, my excitement faded, and it was replaced by a prolonged silence and melancholy.
On the evening of July 22, we lodged at the Haikou Overseas Chinese Mansion. I stayed in Room 457, a dormitory-like space shared with five other women. The next morning, I went to J’s room and was astonished to find he was staying in a conference room temporarily converted into a sleeping quarter, shared by eight Western men and women. The Westerners were naturally large in frame, and with their backpacks and luggage, the large room was packed to capacity.
At noon on July 23, amidst sweltering heat, we boarded a crowded, open-windowed long-distance bus, enduring several hours of jolting travel toward Sanya. Around five in the afternoon, we arrived at the Dadonghai Hotel, a structure only three stories high. The guests were mostly blonde-haired, blue-eyed Westerners. We were informed at the reception counter that the guest rooms were entirely occupied; the desk suggested we sleep for one night in a tent upon the beach, promising a vacancy the following day.
To my astonishment, out here where the mountains are high and the emperor is far away, the reception desk never requested our marriage certificate. When I automatically produced my work ID, the clerk barely glanced at it, registering us both into the exact same tent. It was hard to believe. While checking in at the counter, I could not lift my head; my heart fluttered with unease, and my crimson blush crept down to my neck. After all, this was the very first time I had ever registered to share a room with a boyfriend.
A row of roughly ten tents sat beneath the palm trees on the beach. Dropping our bags, we flung ourselves into the sea.
The coastline formed an arc, its white sands bordered by swaying palms. Having spent the afternoon jolting inside that long-distance bus, disheveled and covered in grime, we found it impossible to articulate the instantaneous joy of touching the ocean. The beach was uncrowded, the water calm, and the temperature perfectly fine. This was my first time swimming in the open sea. During the summer break of 1983, when I joined a tour organized by the work union to the Qiandusha beach on Putuo Mountain, we had merely waded through water that barely covered our feet, posing for a photograph while lying across the shallow surf in our swimwear. At Dadonghai, it was entirely different; the sky was intensely blue, and J looked quite handsome beside me.
Entering the ocean for the first time, I tumbled whenever a wave approached, scrambling in a thoroughly clumsy manner. J instructed me that the moment a wave neared, I simply needed to lift my body lightly upward. Looking left and right, it was indeed that simple; even the children were doing it. We stood in water up to our waists; whenever a wave surged forward, I could not help but shout and leap with excitement as the water rushed past my body, feeling incredibly comfortable.
Minority girls dressed in beautiful garments walked the beach, taking photographs with tourists for two RMB each. Middle-aged women also drifted about, seeking foreign tourists to exchange foreign currency. As darkness fell, we came ashore and dined on seafood at the restaurant. Afterward, we returned to the beach to listen to the waves under the warm darkness. Security guards on patrol swept flashlights across the water’s surface, ensuring no one remained in the sea at night.
Exhausted, J fell asleep quickly. The top of the tent featured a mesh screen, allowing the moonlight to cast the sparse shadows of the palm trees across the fabric. The ocean crashed against the shore, the sound of the waves coaxing us to sleep. A gentle breeze swayed the coconut trees, yet it failed to penetrate our tent. The interior was stiflingly hot, but terrified of mosquitoes, we dared not open the tent flaps to sleep. Suddenly, a lizard crawled onto the roof of the tent, its slender tail flicking. Raised in a large metropolis, I had never encountered such a sight; the local name "four-legged snake" sounded sinister enough. I immediately arose and sealed the tent doors tight. Shortly after, another lizard arrived. I watched them in terror, wishing they would vanish, unable to stop my mind from wandering—what if they slipped inside the tent... a layer of goosebumps rippled across my skin. J woke briefly and remarked there was no need to fear; they did not harm humans.
Fortunately, the next morning we transferred into Room 219, its balcony facing the sea directly. This was my first time staying in a luxury hotel. No longer worried about lizards, we unpacked, and after breakfast, we strolled near the small town.
Sanya at that time was simple and unadorned; though the wooden structures built over the water were primitive, the scenery was lovely. Returning to the beach while it was still early, we walked along the bay; a herd of leisurely cattle occupied the empty sands. As the sun climbed high, the shouts of bathers filled the surf. We grabbed our large beach towels again, headed back to the beach and into the water, and then lay on the sand to sunbathe.
Once darkness fell, J actually suggested we go skinny dipping! To me, this was absolute fantasy! The pitch-black sea and the thunderous roar of the waves were terrifying, even if a quiet urge stirred deep within my own heart. Yet night swimming would draw arrest from security, and my swimming skills were poor; I was afraid. He leapt into the sea alone, entirely naked, swimming further and further until he vanished past my vision, leaving me sitting alone upon the beach, gripped by fear and dark thoughts. What if... what if something happened to him?
Sure enough, the security patrol arrived, sweeping their flashlights back and forth across the water, though they failed to spot J in the distance. When he returned to shore in high spirits, he actually wanted to make love upon the sand! This was absolute madness! To swim freely and without constraint beneath the moonlight in the open ocean—that must have been a magnificent time, and I had missed it. Feeling a touch of guilt, I complied with his wishes upon the beach. Yet I was entirely consumed by tension, fear, and shame throughout, feeling as though eyes were everywhere, even the stars in the sky staring down without blinking—even though there was no one else on the nearby beach at that moment.
On July 25, we visited Tianya Haijiao (The End of the Earth). Numerous small stalls lined the route selling fruits I did not recognize. The coconut vendors used knives to chop an opening into the fruit for us; inserting a straw, the light, subtly sweet juice flowed into my mouth. Children sold souvenirs upon the sand at Tianya Haijiao, and men coaxed tourists into riding camels.
At 12:30 on July 26, we departed Sanya by bus for Haikou. At 7:30 that evening, we boarded a flight back to Guangzhou. That was my first time flying. On the plane, I began to feel unwell, shaking with chills even after putting on all my clothing. I knew a fever was coming; at that moment, I wished for a single aspirin.
When we returned to the China Hotel in Guangzhou, I was severely ill, barely able to stand. Sympathizing with my condition, the desk clerk permitted me to stay directly in J’s single room. I collapsed onto the bed, covering myself with whatever fabric I could find in the room. J rushed out to locate medicine, but it was too late; not a single pharmacy on the streets remained open. Ultimately, he canvassed guests in the hotel lobby, finally obtaining two pills from someone. He poured a glass of hot water for me; I took one pill and curled my body beneath the sheets, waiting to sweat out the fever.
Soon I felt hot, an unbearable heat. I knew this was the critical moment and I could not allow myself to catch a chill, so I wrapped myself tightly. My body scorched and my blood felt as though it were boiling. Finally, in the middle of the night, the sweat broke, soaking through the bedsheets. Once my temperature returned to normal, I took a hot shower and felt much better.
I woke around noon the next day, and my very first words were, "I'm hungry."
"Good, if you are hungry, it means you are recovering," J said.
He had to depart at two that afternoon, returning to Japan by way of Hong Kong. Before he boarded the jetfoil bound for Hong Kong, we sat inside a restaurant near the pier. I remained exceptionally weak.
"I'm sorry, baby," J said. "I have to go, but you're still sick. I wish I could stay with you longer." He gripped my hand and said, "I'll miss you, baby."
At that moment, a line from the Soviet film The Village Schoolteacher surfaced in my mind, and I uttered sorrowfully: "We are always parting."
At the final moment of our farewell, J looked at me and said, "Maybe we should get married."
J departed, the jetfoil carrying him away to the free world. Would he return? Left alone at the pier, I felt incredibly weak and sorrowful. Chills invaded my body once more, and I soon returned to the hotel to lie upon the bed; the experience of the previous night’s fever rushed back. This time it was more severe; I began to cough, and there was no one beside me to offer a glass of hot water. J, where are you? I miss you. I wept silently in the dark, lonely bed. Alternating between cold and heat, shaking all over, I cried bitterly, feeling thoroughly wretched. I missed J intensely; only by gazing at his photograph did my heart quiet down slightly.
The following day, I boarded the train alone to return to Shanghai. Those two days aboard the train were grueling. I was weak and sensitive to the cold, requiring a place to lie down, yet I occupied a seat in a hard-seat carriage without sleeping berths. I needed a blanket for warmth, but possessed none. I was too ill to endure the draft, yet on those hot summer days, all the train windows were flung wide open. I could only curl myself into a tight ball.
I thought then that during those fourteen days, I had visited heaven, and surely I had also been to hell. Hainan Island had claimed many of my firsts, yet along life's path, how many more firsts remained waiting...
Maybe we should get married.
特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirited translation and text refinement.

第三百八十七篇