Thursday, September 24, 2026

《夢里乾坤:過期的護照、隕石雨與時空中出境受阻的迷宮》

2026年9月24日夢:
早上醒來早了點兒,就打了一個小時的坐,才6點半左右。看看時間還早,就又睡了。
做了一個夢:我的護照快到期了,明天就是截止日。我拿著咖啡色的中國護照,想找人把延期手續辦了。知道是找誰的,是兩位夢裡的老師。但真的找到他們時,卻發現,他們根本不管這一攤的。情急醒來,慶幸!
醒來時間7點50分。
註:關於出境受阻夢
出境受阻夢是我的夢中的一大類,每次都很艱難。
有一次是在崎嶇的路的盡頭忽然有座陡峭的大山直上直下,猶如屏蔽擋在前面。心裡想著只要翻過這山就好了。於是就爬呀爬,爬得精疲力竭。當爬到了山頂正想喘口氣慶賀一下勝利在望時,眼前卻呈現出一片汪洋,無邊無際。
1994年在SU讀書時用鼠標畫的夢境
還有一次是排隊過一座跨國界的大橋。要過去的人群擁擠不堪,推推擠擠。橋中有鐵絲網隔開,只留有一個人過的空隙。對方有人把守查看證件放人。天一黑就不讓過了,我也沒過成。
還好這些夢都是在異國做的。醒來暗自慶幸自己已經到達對方了。
2012年9月15日夢:
媽媽開門 用鼠標畫
傍晚,一個人在街上散步,被一個熟人曖昧地帶到一個幽靜的角落。還以為是她向我示好,她卻喊著媽媽開門,原來是她的家。進了屋子,她調了一杯冰涼的飲料遞給我,陶瓷杯很講究,飲料裡有小小黑色的冰莓子。她父母、哥哥和孿胞妹妹(一個小時之差)都很熱情招待我。
河道裡有隻大龍蝦石雕
用完餐,走到窗前往外一看,原來那是一片高級建築區域,建築都是宮殿式的,街心廣場處的石雕都很漂亮,文藝復興時期的式樣。窗下有條河,城市裡的河,兩邊都是豪華建築。河邊也有一個大石雕塑,一半在水中,仔細看像是一隻趴著的大龍蝦,頭側向遠方。
她帶我出門,還有她哥哥相陪。街上人多繁忙。我們坐在一輛雙層沒頂的像是旅遊巴士上。她哥哥剛下車回家,我就第一個發現有一個比拳頭大、表面凹凸不平的黑糊糊的球帶著煙從天而降。
「隕石!」我指著飛快下衝的球體喊道。
說時遲那時快,接踵而至的隕石由小到大,幾乎都從車旁飛落。有一顆兩個拳頭大小的,直沖我飛過來。我伸出右手一推擋,那球遇我指尖的作用力略微變了方向,朝上擦過,在食指肚上留下泥痕。
「快幫我手指拍照!」我向大夥兒顯示手指上的痕跡。
還來不及拍照,就見大大小小的隕石雨密集地飛落下來,路上已經有幾個大得有車子大小的火球滾過來。司機駕駛著車輛左扭右行,剛剛勉強躲過。路上的火球越來越多,在幾乎沒辦法躲過的時候,車子開進了一個厚篷頂的洞口或是大橋。
安全了,我們融入了人流,街上顯得有點擁擠。很快我的朋友就被擠開了,我大聲問她:「我這是去哪裡?」
去某處,她報了一個國家的名字,好像遠在歐洲與非洲交界處。
「我不要去那裡,我要回上海。」我喊。
「那半路上就下來吧。」被人流隔得漸行漸遠的她跟我揮手告別。
「坐幾路車?」我还問。
「xxxx。」她報了幾個數字,然後說車子就要開了,你趕快去使館辦個手續,就不見人影了。
在和來路相對著有三條路引出不同的去向,在叉路口,來不及考慮、也無法選擇,就被人流裹挾著進入了最左邊的比較寬的一條路。在人群中我到處打聽使館方向。
半路上,有個穿著合體的日本中年女子要我幫她個忙,將她手上的幾張帳單數目加一加。我惦記著找使館,說:「對不起,我沒時間了,知道使館在哪裡嗎?」
她說:「跟我走,我也去那個方向。」
我就跟她去了,我還用日文跟她交談幾句。她帶我在繁忙的街巷裡繞了幾個彎,說先到她辦公室去坐坐。那裡的樓房都很莊重美觀,像文藝復興時期歐洲的建築。在一棟大樓裡走道旁的僻靜處,她將東西往地上一放,看來這就是她的辦公室了。
我忽然感到上當了,抽身就想照原路返回。但就是找不到來路了。推開一扇看似出口的門,卻看到長方形的大屋子里,中間有條窄窄的走道,兩邊坐滿了幹活的人,面無表情的目光看著我。屋子沒有其他出口,退出來後,又在走道裡繞了幾個彎,看似出口的地方都有人在工作,而且都沒有出路。這才覺得我被騙入了一個巨大的迷宮。
在三、四層樓上的樓房一側半開放長廊上往下看,不遠處的街道巷口有幾條大犬,張著血盆大口咬試圖進來的人,連警察也進不來。長廊上也是擁擠不堪的人群中有幾個遛著狗巡邏的人,那些大狗的嘴巴都被繩子綁著張不大。
感覺到有東西擠兌我,低頭一看,一條大狗正用力擠我。我被人、狗擠得懸在了半空、貼著牆壁,還是沒躲開那條狗。我的左手掌靠近小手指處被那條狗一口咬住,死死地不放,被它那鋒利牙齒咬住的感覺都有,很疼。
再轉頭一看,靠牆一遛有幾個人都貼牆懸空站著,同時都被什麼小動物咬著。邊上的那個中年女子對我說,要忍,等到它鬆開時設法逃脫。
忍著忍著,忽然感到那口牙齒在鬆動,彷彿要挪到小指上去,我馬上使勁兒,用力掙脫了那狗,就醒了。
**********************************
Universe in Dreams: Expired Passports, Meteor Showers, and the Labyrinths of Blocked Departures
Dream of September 24, 2026:
I woke up a bit early this morning, so I did meditation for about an hour. Around 6:30 AM, seeing that it was still early, I went back to sleep and had a dream.
My passport was about to expire; tomorrow was the deadline. Holding my brown Chinese passport, I wanted to find someone to handle the extension process. I knew exactly who to look for—two teachers from my dream. Yet, when I actually found them, I discovered they did not handle this matter at all. I woke up in a state of anxiety, feeling thoroughly relieved!
Waking time: 7:50 AM.
Note: Regarding Dreams of Blocked Departures
Dreams of blocked departures form a major category among my dreams, and they are intensely difficult every single time.
Once, at the end of a rugged road, a steep mountain suddenly appeared, rising straight up like a massive shield blocking the path ahead. In the dream, I thought to myself that as long as I climbed over this mountain, everything would be fine. So I climbed and climbed until I was utterly exhausted. Just as I reached the summit and wanted to catch my breath to celebrate that victory was in sight, a vast, boundless ocean presented itself before my eyes.
Another time, I was waiting in line to cross a grand bridge that formed an international border. The crowd trying to cross was incredibly congested, pushing and shoving. The middle of the bridge was separated by a barbed-wire fence, leaving a gap wide enough for only one person to pass at a time. Someone stood guard on the other side, inspecting documents before letting people through. As soon as night fell, they stopped letting anyone pass, and I did not make it across either.
Fortunately, all these dreams occurred while I was in a foreign country. Upon waking, I always secretly rejoice that I have already arrived on the other side.
Dream of September 15, 2012: 
At dusk, I was walking alone on the street when an acquaintance led me cryptically into a quiet corner. I thought she was showing affection toward me, but then she called out for her mother to open the door; it turned out to be her home. Once inside, she mixed a cold drink and handed it to me. The ceramic cup was very elegant, and the drink contained tiny black iced berries. Her parents, her brother, and her twin sister (born just one hour apart) all hosted me with great warmth.
After finishing the meal, I walked over to the window and looked out. It turned out to be an upscale architectural district. The buildings were all palace-style, and the stone sculptures in the central plaza were beautiful, designed in a Renaissance fashion. Beneath the window ran a river—a city river—flanked on both sides by luxurious structures. By the riverbank stood another large stone sculpture, half-submerged in the water. Looking closely, it resembled a crouching giant lobster with its head turned toward the distance.
She led me out the door, accompanied by her brother. The streets were crowded and busy. We sat on a double-decker, roofless vehicle that looked like a tour bus. Just as her brother got off the bus to head home, I was the first to notice a dark, irregular sphere, larger than a fist, descending from the sky trailing smoke.
"A meteor!" I shouted, pointing at the rapidly plunging object.
Before anyone could react, a barrage of meteors followed in quick succession, growing larger and falling almost directly beside the bus. One sphere, about the size of two fists, flew straight toward me. I stuck out my right hand to push and block it. Upon meeting the force of my fingertips, the sphere slightly altered its direction, scraping upward past me and leaving a mud mark on the pad of my index finger.
"Quick, take a photo of my finger!" I showed the mark on my finger to the group.
Before anyone could take a photo, a dense rain of meteors, large and small, began falling heavily. On the road, several large fireballs the size of cars were already rolling toward us. The driver steered the vehicle, twisting left and right, barely managing to dodge them. More and more fireballs filled the road, and just when it seemed completely impossible to evade them, the vehicle drove into the entrance of a thick-canopied tunnel or a grand bridge.
Safe now, we merged into the flow of people, and the street appeared quite crowded. Soon, my friend was separated from me by the crush. I asked her loudly, "Where am I going?"
She named a specific country, which seemed to be located far away on the border between Europe and Africa.
"I don’t want to go there, I want to go back to Shanghai," I shouted.
"Then get off halfway," she waved goodbye to me as she drifted further and further away in the crowd.
"Which bus do I take?" I called out.
"XXXX," she shouted back a few digits, then added that the bus was about to leave and told me to hurry to the embassy to handle the paperwork. Then she vanished from sight.
Opposite the path I had come from, three roads branched out into different directions. At the fork, with no time to think and no way to choose, I was swept by the crowd into the leftmost road, which was relatively wide. Amidst the crowd, I inquired everywhere for the direction of the embassy.
Along the way, a well-dressed, middle-aged Japanese woman asked me for a favor, wanting me to add up the numbers on a few bills she held. Mindful of finding the embassy, I said, "I'm sorry, I don't have time. Do you know where the embassy is?"
She replied, "Come with me, I am heading in that direction too."
So I followed her, even exchanging a few sentences with her in Japanese. She led me through several turns in the busy streets and alleys, suggesting we sit in her office for a moment first. The buildings there were all solemn and beautiful, resembling European architecture from the Renaissance. In a quiet spot along a corridor inside a grand building, she set her things down on the floor; it appeared this was her office.
Suddenly feeling that I had been deceived, I turned to retrace my steps along the original path. Yet, I simply could not find the way back. Pushing open a door that looked like an exit, I saw a large, rectangular room with a narrow walkway down the middle. Both sides were filled with people working, all staring at me with expressionless eyes. The room had no other exit. After backing out, I made several more turns along the corridors. Every spot that looked like an exit had people working, and none offered a way out. Only then did I realize I had been tricked into a massive labyrinth.
Looking down from a semi-open corridor on the third or fourth floor of the building, I saw several large hounds at the entrance of a nearby street corner, snapping their bloody jaws at anyone attempting to enter; even the police could not get in. The corridor itself was also packed with an immense crowd, with a few people patrolling while walking dogs whose jaws were bound with ropes so they couldn't open wide.
Feeling something pressing against me, I looked down to see a large dog pushing hard against my body. Wedged tightly by the people and the dog, I hung suspended in mid-air against the wall, yet I still couldn't evade the hound. The area of my left palm near the pinky finger was clamped tightly in the dog's mouth; it refused to let go, and I could distinctly feel its sharp teeth sinking in, causing intense pain.
Turning my head again, I saw a row of several people all standing suspended against the wall, each being bitten by some small animal at the same time. The middle-aged woman beside me said to me, "You must endure it. Wait until it loosens its grip, then find a way to escape."
Enduring the pain, I suddenly felt the jaws loosening, as if the teeth were shifting toward my pinky finger. I immediately exerted all my force, broke free from the dog with a sharp pull, and woke up.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirit translation and text refinement.

第三百七十一篇

Wednesday, September 23, 2026

《南國考察記,1982:雲溪的蘋婆、蝴蝶谷的日光浴與遲到的藝術啟蒙》

繼1982年7月的溫州行之後,僅僅兩個月,在9月初,我們同一行人又南下,去了在廣州的華南植物園、肇慶的鼎湖山原始森林及有小桂林美譽的七星岩。
一、老街的見聞逸事
到了廣州,自然少不了要走街串巷、瀏覽市容、漫步珠江沿岸、觀察風土人情。
記不清路名的廣州老街,給人一種古樸溫馨感。不平整的磚路兩旁,並排著老店鋪參差不齊斑駁陳舊的石灰磚房。那裡有鞋店、花攤、藥鋪、家具、木材、五金、百貨。從店裡到鋪外滿滿當當地展示著五花八門的各種商品。給人的印象彷彿那裡全民都在經商。那感覺真是:家家盼生意興隆通四海,戶戶望財源茂盛達三江。
有一條大街,人頭攢動熙熙攘攘,滿眼的帳篷攤位充塞著馬路,五顏六色的時裝高高掛在架子上。後來才知道那就是著名的高第街,就像北京的秀水街、上海的華亭路,但規模要大得多。
小商販們有的在與鄰攤位的主兒閒聊,有的在大聲地與顧客討價還價。「送你啦!」「送你啦!」朝欲擒故縱假裝離開的顧客笑著喊著,好像他們為了做成這樁買賣真的就要輸掉了血本。外地顧客、二道販子們夾著大包小包來來往往,穿梭街市。儘管他們中不乏暴發戶、萬元戶,但我們那時還沒有金錢掛帥的概念,認為做這種生意不是很體面。
驕陽烈日之下、知了聒噪聲裡走街串巷本已相當疲憊乏悶;轟然間,從某家小店鋪傳出震耳欲聾的歌曲,80年代初港台歌曲幾乎還沒進入內地,這種聽不懂的粵語,不熟悉的高分貝音量,令人平添煩躁。
抬眼望去,店家窄小的空間都被充分利用著,門、窗、貨架、陳列櫃,吊著的、立著的、躺著的、靠著的商品,從香煙、打火機、蛤蟆鏡、喇叭褲、T恤衫、假首飾,到磁帶、音響、電視機,應有盡有。雜七雜八的貨物將店鋪塞得滿滿的,似乎無從踏足,令人眼花繚亂。這種視覺、聽覺的堵塞,怎麼會有購物欲。
正午時分,路上行人無幾,店裡顧客寥寥,店主們有的往街上潑盆冷水降溫,有的坐在門邊磨得光滑的舊竹椅子上搖著大蒲扇。
轉了一大圈,你不得不注意到廣州真不愧是個花城,市民家的窗台上、門前、屋後都種有幾盆花草。九月驕陽中盛開的是滿街的一叢叢一朵朵鮮艷的扶桑。那是我第一次看到這種花,此花有五片花瓣,一條長長的花蕊綴著花粉姿態優雅地朝外探出,給人留下深深的印象。扶桑花,嬌媚得讓人眩目,幽雅得讓人羨慕,柔弱得讓人心疼,纖細得讓人看得入迷。要不是同事叫著走,我還真差點兒成了躑躅忘返的「花癡」。後來得知這扶桑幾乎終年花開滿枝,且容易栽培,枉然間若有所失。
扶桑花 網圖
廣州源遠流長的飲食文化也是十分吸引遊客的。酒樓、茶館、街頭小吃無處不在,食品多樣林林總總。
街頭小店裡有一種醃過的白蘿蔔,酸酸的很好吃又解渴。一毛錢一串,大約有三四塊兒。還有小販在街口架個爐子煮著一大鍋牛內臟的。好像也是一毛錢一串,主人當著顧客的面將鍋中的牛雜碎撈起,用剪子剪幾塊,用長竹籤一串遞給顧客,行人便拿著邊走邊吃。
食街上,店鋪一家連著一家。明爐烤乳豬、燒鴨、滷鵝,明晃晃、油滋滋掛在玻璃窗內,試圖引人食慾。餐館裡,字寫得很生猛的「生猛海鮮」四個大字惹人注目,門前大魚缸裡的龍蝦螃蟹卻已經不再那麼生猛。還有供應煲仔飯、艇仔粥、沙河粉、雲吞麵等經濟小吃鋪子。有的店門前還站著位年輕的姑娘大聲招呼著拉客人進店吃飯。
到廣州我才知道,原來粥有那麼多花樣。在此之前我之會用大米加水煮白米粥,還有就是隔夜的剩飯加水做泡飯。
入夜,珠江兩岸蒙上了一層神秘、浪漫的面紗。晚風送爽,暑意殆盡,岸邊婆娑的老榕樹上掛著長長的根鬚隨風飄逸。江畔的遊客三三兩兩,依偎在水邊欄杆旁的情侶們在細語呢喃。
漫步在珠江大橋上,低垂的星空與兩岸燈火相映生輝。在橋中停下腳步依憑著橋欄,注視水波湧動,聆聽江濤低語,願時光久駐...
沿江大榕樹旁昏黃的街燈下,時有小食品攤販架著小火爐為往來行人遊客做著美味可口的夜宵。徒步珠江沿岸、夜遊荔灣湖後的我們,便也坐在矮矮的小木桌邊的凳子上小憩。津津有味地用牙籤兒,挑著風韻猶存的老闆娘為我們炒的味道鮮美的螺螄肉吃。
二、植物園初見碩果
大概是9月5日那天上午,我們走進華南植物園時,園裡靜悄悄的沒遊人,也沒見早鍛鍊的人。來到公園的茶樓一看,哇!熙熙攘攘的都在吃早茶呢!有些老人們提籠架鳥來到茶樓,將鳥籠子往梁柱上一掛,邊喝茶邊聊天兒看報,何等地逍遙自在!
我們也在擁擠的茶樓裡草草地用了早餐便來到室外。說實在的,吃慣了泡飯、大餅油條、粢飯糕、麻球、糯米團子、最多加上生煎的胃,對鳳爪、蝦餃、腸粉等那麼多營養豐富的美食還真一時習慣不了。
廣東人好飲茶,涼茶清涼散熱,解暑去濕。早茶、午茶、夜茶不僅果腹又可以敘友情、談生意、傳播小道消息。
正因為這一習俗使我們得以在植物園中暢遊無阻,彷彿整個佔地三百公頃的園林只是為我們而存在著的。
來到了一望無際綠草如茵古木成林的大自然中,就立刻被這優美的熱帶、亞熱帶園林風光吸引住了。
園中有好多大樹、樹上有好多果子、這並不稀罕。令人興奮的是,樹上的果子奇大無比!沉甸甸的!哇...從來沒見過樹上能長那麼大的果子哎!果子大得令人擔心樹枝的吃重!當然這擔心是多餘的。
小Q告訴我們哪棵大樹上懸著的是菠蘿蜜,哪棵樹上掛著的是木瓜。楊桃掛在樹上,這個我認識!一個個鮮艷誘人,令人垂涎欲滴!香蕉串兒中間伸出一根長長的頸、頭上還連著一大朵紫花。
過去柚子吃得不多,總嫌它酸,看著那粗糙的表皮,想著那多汁的囊,就立刻酸溜溜地口舌生津。榴蓮根本就沒嘗過。還有許多一時半會兒沒記住名字的,吊在樹上、在陽光中溢彩、饞人的果子,就更不知道它們的滋味兒了。真羨慕南國居民的好口福。
這裡一切的一切都是那麼的新奇!那時沒有互聯網,信息閉塞、我這知識膚淺、沒見過世面的北方姑娘,真像是劉姥姥進了大觀園,大開了眼界!
「棕櫚」二字,能夠使一個未經世事、充滿幻想的我產生遙遠朦朧浪漫的臆想。可想而知,初見棕櫚的我是一下就被迷住了。棕櫚林蔭道兩旁挺拔的樹干、茂密的羽狀樹葉、以及似火的驕陽,彷彿是圓了一個美妙的夢。
走進熱帶植物觀賞室,好像進入了童話世界。各科植物都長得極其誇張。以前看到過最大的仙人球只有一個拳頭大,棍棒形仙人掌科植物最大的也只有手指粗細半尺來高。可是這裡的仙人球大得不可思議;要是不怕紮的話,張開雙臂都摟不過來。龍舌蘭、金邊虎尾蘭、蘆薈、棍棒形仙人掌都長得比人還高。
在這裡我能叫得出名字的植物少得可憐。各種多漿植物、多肉植物——剛剛學到的新名詞,林林總總目不暇接。那裡花兒開的可謂姹紫嫣紅。
蕨類及蔭生植物區,陰涼潮濕。這裡的植物喜陰不喜陽,一般不開花,為賞葉植物。大棚架上掛著、吊著許多纖細、嬌柔、典雅的蕨類植物,令人賞心悅目。
小Q告訴我們,蕨類植物之王桫椤,和水杉、銀杏一樣均被譽為植物界的活化石。桫椤是與恐龍同時代的,至今已有一億八千萬年歷史,也是逃過了地球上第四紀冰川的浩劫而幸存下來的古老孑遺植物。水杉一度被世界各地的科學家認為是已經滅絕了的植物。
桫椤是現存唯一的木本蕨類植物,莖幹直立挺拔,高可達八米,樹頂叢生許多巨大的羽狀葉片,長可達三米,隨風飄逸。不開花,不結果,沒有種子,它是靠藏在葉片背面的孢子繁衍後代的。桫椤性喜溫暖濕潤的氣候,常生長在林下或河邊、溪谷兩旁的陰濕之地。
走出大棚 1982年9月
從潮濕陰涼的大棚繞出來,回到了陽光明媚的世界感到格外的舒服。突然覺得小腿上奇癢難忍,撩起裙裾一看,哇!兩腿上起滿了像痱子一樣,麻麻點點的小紅疙瘩。
小Q告訴我,那是被蔭生植物區裡的小咬咬的。好厲害的小咬!類似蚊子的一種小昆蟲,但比蚊子還小好多。在裡面時我只顧觀賞植物了,對那裡幾隻小小的飛蟲沒太在意,哪知道後患無窮!那個罪受得,足足兩天那些「痱子」才消掉。
三、鼎湖山雲溪跋涉
繼廣州之後我們来到了肇慶被譽為北回歸線上綠寶石的鼎湖山,那裡有對外不開放的一百多公頃的原始森林。
次日晌午,我們由東往西沿著雲溪跋涉,踏入人跡罕至、具有熱帶雨林特徵的原始森林。
河道彎彎曲曲、溪水奔騰跳躍、清澈見底。水中岸邊聚散著大塊兒岩石及鵝卵石,潤濕處石面上滋生著滑膩膩的蘚苔。
明媚的陽光透過參天古木的茂密枝葉,灑在身上、地上、石上、水上光影斑駁。潺潺溪水錚錚淙淙沁人心脾、林間鳥雀嘰嘰啾啾悅人耳目。
戰戰兢兢過鐵索橋 1982年9月
順著溪邊的小徑,我們時而走在溪水的南邊,時而又踩著水中的石頭跨過溪水行於北岸。頭上,古藤新蔓,攀緣懸掛交織纏繞;腳下,老根枯枝,凸凹縱橫磕膝絆腳。很多時候糾纏著的藤蔓橫陳擋道,我們只能躬著身子從下邊鑽過去。地上落葉厚厚的,走在上面沙沙作響;微風拂過,帶來陣陣幽香。
落葉中夾雜著各種不知名的乾裂果殼。有一種植物的果殼十分奪目,果殼約莫兩寸長,形似兩節的毛豆殼,大於毛豆殼;一側裂開外翻,兩片薄薄的殼皮的內側鮮紅艷麗,宛若情竇初開少女微啟的紅唇。這紅唇中曾經包含著的是怎麼一種豆呢?它們又蹦到那裡去了呢?我撿起一個紅唇欲夾於書中,卻又不捨將其壓平。
記得普希金的一首詩:
我看見一朵被遺忘在書本裡的小花,
它早已乾枯,失去了芳香;
就在這時,我的心靈裡
充滿了一個奇怪的幻想:
它開在哪兒?什麼時候?是哪一個春天?
它開得很久嗎?是誰摘下來的,
是陌生的或者還是熟識的人的手?
為什麼又會被放到這來?
是為了紀念溫存的相會,
或者是為了命中注定的離別之情,
還是為了紀念孤獨的漫步
在田野的僻靜處,在森林之蔭?
他是否還活著,她也還活著麼?
他們現在棲身的一角又在哪兒?
或者他們也都早已枯萎,
就正像這朵無人知的小花?
......
手中拿著紅唇直到要出山才依依不捨地將她放回了林間,留在那片屬於她的地方。(2009年為了寫博客在網上好一番查找,終於找到了紅唇的信息:她叫蘋婆,又稱鳳眼果屬喬木種子可食用。)
四、古森林生存技巧
浩瀚的熱帶雨林中,參差錯落鬱鬱蔥蔥的植物分喬木、灌木、及草木。我們邊走邊採集、攝製、錄像,邊聽研究植物的專家解釋各種植物現象。
找到了野生蕨類活化石。看著那纖細、優美的枝葉,想到它們那一億八千萬年、比整個人類年齡還要悠久的歷史,腦海裡一片茫然...
置身於美妙的大自然中,湍急的山溪在身旁流過,盤根錯節的古樹幹上有攀緣向上的交織藤蔓,不由得想起了裴多菲的詩:
我願意是急流
......
只要我的愛人
是一條小魚
在我的浪花中
快樂的遊來遊去
我願意是荒林
......
只要我的愛人
是一隻小鳥
在我的稠密的
樹枝間做窠鳴叫
我願意是廢墟
......
只要我的愛人
是青青的常春藤
沿著我荒涼的額
親密的攀緣上升
我願做一條小魚、一隻小鳥或是一條青青的常春藤,可是這世界上誰又是我的急流、荒林與廢墟?
茫然中忽然聽到小Q指著一棵有藤蔓攀緣的大樹說,這就是自然界的絞殺現象。從聯想中回過神來,聽完了他的解釋,哇!才恍然大悟。
原來,濃蔭蔽日的自然界裡並不是我所想象的那樣浪漫,植物界也存在著競爭與殘殺!
植物的根系,扎在土壤裡吸收水分、養分、以供樹木生長需求,同時也起著力的平衡作用;又總是不斷地向深度和廣度擴展。林子密了鄰近的植物自然會相互爭奪空間與資源。越接近地面表層土壤越是肥沃,也更利於植物呼吸,所以植物間的競爭越激烈。
但熱帶雨林中的古木參天枝葉繁茂,如果根系都到表層來了,大樹就會頭重腳輕失去平衡。加之熱帶雨林多雨、潮濕,樹木的根系很難深入到空氣缺乏的深土層去呼吸。
怎麼辦,植物界似乎也有智慧呢,於是就八仙過海各顯神通:有的大樹在枝椏上長出支柱根,在多處支撐樹冠有效地保持了平衡,被稱為「獨木成林」。有些樹幹的底部如翅膀狀向四周張開,形成板狀的根,沿著地面逶迤伸展附加支撐,看著就很厚實堅固。地面根則是根系在土表延伸、擴張的同時相互癒合,形成網狀,以阻止其他植物對其領地的入侵。
獨木成林、板狀根、地面根 (網圖)
藤葛交錯是熱帶雨林的一大特徵。為了陽光和空間,許多植物走捷徑,攀岩走壁、繞樹而上;憑藉於其它植物的支持,穿插在樹冠的空隙中,攀緣到陽光充足的上層。藤的種類數量繁多,又粗又長,最長的可達三百多米,是世界上最長的生物。
還有巧取豪奪的附生植物。這種植物選擇大樹蒼老的枝幹作為自己的安身之所,將自己發達的根系深扎於樹皮裂縫狹隙之間繁衍生息。
附生植物、藤蔓、絞殺植物 (網圖)
最殘酷的就是絞殺植物了:它介於藤本植物和附生植物之間,其手段簡直是爭奪陽光、空間和營養的登峰造極。它開始像附生植物一樣附著在樹的枝幹上;然後像藤一樣往上攀去爭奪陽光。下面又長出氣根扎入土壤搶取營養。長出的氣根形成網狀包圍樹幹並逐漸癒合桎梏樹幹。最後,原來的樹木得不到陽光和營養而死去,絞殺植物則形成了一株新的大樹。
太殘酷了!聽得我一愣一一愣的。人類是否也是如此?只有相互傾軋才能得以生存?涉世不深的我陷入了迷茫。是由此而產生了強烈的競爭生存欲望,還是萌發了消極厭世之情,抑或兩者兼而有之?我還願做一條長春藤麼?
莖花、可可樹、楊桃樹、咖啡樹 (網圖)
大自然也通過另外一種植物,給人們以啟迪,那就是莖花現象。
在無葉的樹幹或老枝上開花結果的現象稱作莖花,是雨林喬木的典型特徵,如楊桃、木菠蘿、可可樹、咖啡樹等皆是。
老莖生花的植物多數為雌雄異株,只能憑藉昆蟲來達到傳宗接代的目的,它們在自己身上找潛力,將鮮花開在昆蟲最易觸及的部位,即方便了別人也方便了自己。
鼎湖山 1982年9月

鼎湖山 1982年9月
五、蝴蝶谷人被蝶戲
當午行至一略為開闊地帶,我們一行人便在溪邊的大石頭上坐下小憩。
此處有許多五彩斑斕不同種類的蝴蝶在花間樹叢飛舞,煞是迷人。聽小Q說這地方叫「蝴蝶谷」,女碩士和我一時童心萌發,便在溪邊逐蝶。這裡的蝴蝶很乖巧,展著輕盈盈美麗的羽翅優雅地在你眼前翻飛,可就是抓它不著。
眼看一隻蝴蝶飛往溪邊的灌木叢,我躡手躡腳跟過去,一點點靠近這隻剛剛停在葉子上的蝴蝶。等它剛站穩且將雙翅並攏時,我便出其不意輕輕地一捏,信手拈來。這是一隻鑲著黑邊、泛著銀光的藍色蝴蝶,薄薄的紋絡清晰的羽翅上斑點秀麗。
我高興得忘乎所以,怕捏疼了它,便放在手掌心雙手唔住,又怕憋著了它,手指間還留有縫隙。當我來到女碩士那裡,慢慢地再掀開手給她欣賞時,只見那蝴蝶振翅一飛,便飛出了我的掌心。只在我手指間留下了,沾著羽翅的粉末而產生的,滑滑的感覺。
又有一隻蝴蝶飛到了溪畔的大石頭上,停了下來,我悄悄地跟過去剛要伸手,它又飛了起來,落到溪中的另一塊大石頭上。我慢慢地腳尖點著水中的大、小石頭,接近那隻蝴蝶。
眼看就要抓住它的時候,忽然腳底一滑,身體重心失去了平衡,一下子就滑落到了水中。光顧著抓蝴蝶了,沒注意腳下正踩著長有一層滑溜溜青苔的卵石上。
好在此處溪水緩慢,落水處最深也只有人的半腰高。我馬上從水中爬起來,身上的鞋子、襪子、褲子全濕了,上衣也濕了一大半。窘迫得無地自容,耳邊傳來一直在岸邊坐著閒聊觀風景男同事們的哈哈大笑。
幸好溪邊水上有幾塊錯落著的大岩石,朝向太陽那一面比較光滑,而且被太陽曬得暖烘烘的有點兒發燙。
女碩士守著,我躲在大岩石後面脫掉濕漉漉的外衣褲,在清冽的水裡洗了洗,擰乾後平攤在大岩石上等著太陽烤乾;隨即也趴在石上舒舒服服地曬太陽。那可是正中的日光浴啊,雖然那時還不知道什麼叫日光浴。
兩米見長的石塊兒,坡度不大但傾斜得恰到好處;斜面朝東南,西北頭高,只要我不抬頭或是他們不站起來,那幫男的就看不見我。都還沒到談婚論嫁,那時的人也確實比較少有雜念,抑或是含蓄,他們就都坐得遠遠地繼續談笑風生。
我們的喧嘩,大概驚動了密林中的「山野樵夫」,當然,他們到底是誰?怎麼會在這深山老林裡突然出現?那時的我們都受的是無神論的教育,只能當他們是「山野樵夫」了。他們倆面目黝黑,一個年輕點兒、另一個中年的樣子,從高處撥開密密麻麻的樹葉衝了出來。剎那間無中生有,猶如是天外來客。我們都詫異地盯著對方,在這原始森林裡走了好幾個小時的我們根本就沒見到過一個人影子,也沒見到有別的路,當然我們只是沿著溪水走的,不知山上是否有小路,畢竟這片是不對外開放的原始森林。只幾秒鐘的滯留他們就又消失在密林裡了。
水簾洞天是雲溪最大的瀑布,瀑聲轟鳴,水簾從30米高處掛下,直入清潭,衝出湍急漩渦。水簾後面有一崖洞,我和小L倆貼著崖邊踩著溜滑的石頭小心翼翼地繞到水簾後面的洞口,水花打濕了我們的髮梢和衣服。
站在水簾洞內,隔著水簾往外看,青山岩壑變得光怪陸離,詩意朦朧,妙趣橫生。
瀑布對面的潭邊水中,有塊平扁的大方石,我坐在石上,記下因大自然的美給我的震驚與感觸。這照片反面寫著「衷言如流」四字。具體是啥衷言如今是早已忘記了。
掩映在古木濃蔭中的白雲寺,有將近四百年的歷史。寺裡和尚做的一碗發菜齋麵,當時感覺是有生以來最好吃的一碗兒麵。
六、到七星岩一游
從鼎湖山的原始森林裡出來,順便去了位於肇慶市以北的七星岩。七星岩由七座拔地而起的石灰岩山峰組成,排列如北斗七星,撒落在近600公頃的像鏡子一樣的湖面上。長長的湖堤、玲瓏的小橋、彎彎的小徑將星湖分成五個秀麗的湖泊。有一種說法,這裡聚集了桂林之山和杭州之水。遺憾的是我沒有去過桂林。
去七星岩的那一天晴空萬里,好像沒有工作純屬遊玩。我們沿著水中的林蔭湖堤穿過了景區,體驗大自然帶給我們的寧靜。只不過我們剛從原始森林裡出來,來到這片多少帶點精緻的人工雕琢意味的名勝景區,感覺有點太「入世」了。相比之下我更喜歡原始森林裡的古樸和自然。
1982年7月和9月的兩趟野外跋涉,令人終身難忘,尤其是在人跡罕見的原始森林裡,那種融入自然,天人合一的感覺真是無以言表。幸哉!
廣州回來後,小Q搞到了法國250週年繪畫展的票子。10月的某一天,約了下班後在人民公園見,一起去看畫展。這是我第一次看到西方繪畫,也是我第一次看畫展。那真是相當的震撼。展出有羅浮宮和凡爾賽宮收藏的從1620年到1870年間61位畫家的78幅作品。那是我遲到了的藝術啟蒙。
回校後小Q給過我一盆纖細柔美幽雅的鐵線蕨。一位同事幫我做了個自製的長方形、扁平磨砂石水泥盤子,有兩尺來長。盆中放有水、活石、泥土、苔蘚等,我將那盆鐵線蕨安插在水盆景中的假山石後面。
盆景做得很美,小世界模擬大自然,很是讓我得意了一番。但是由於沒有掌握好鐵線蕨的生存習性,好好的一盆鐵線蕨在我的辦公桌上沒有成活多久。以後相當長的一段日子裡我總懷著內疚與遺憾。
也許是我孤陋寡聞,好像那個時候少有花店,苗圃對大眾開放的。那時候誰養花草,都是哪裡哪裡弄來的,誰誰誰給的,但是從來沒聽說有地方可以買的。小Q的鐵線蕨也是跟學校苗圃裡的花匠要來的。
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Fieldwork in the South, 1982: The Pingpo of Yunxi, a Sunbath in Butterfly Valley, and a Belated Enlightenment in Art
Merely two months after our trip to Wenzhou in July 1982, at the beginning of September, our same group headed south once more. This time, our itinerary took us to the South China Botanical Garden, the primeval forests of Dinghushan in Zhaoqing, and Qixingyan (Seven Star Crags), which is widely praised as a "miniature Guilin."
I. Vignettes and Anecdotes from the Old Streets
Upon arriving in Canton, it was only natural to wander through the alleyways, take in the cityscape, stroll along the banks of the Pearl River, and observe the local customs.
The old streets of Canton, whose names I can no longer recall, exuded a primitive and heartwarming charm. Flanking the uneven brick paths stood rows of old shops—unequal in height, mottled, and weathered lime-brick structures. There were shoe shops, flower stalls, pharmacies, and stores for furniture, timber, hardware, and general merchandise. Miscellanies of goods were packed tightly from inside the shops right out onto the pavements. It left one with the distinct impression that the entire population was engaged in commerce. It truly felt like a place where every household hoped their business would span the four seas, and every family wished their fortune would reach the three grand rivers.
One major avenue was a bustling sea of people, with tents and stalls completely choking the roadway, and multi-colored fashions hanging high from clothing racks. Only later did I learn that this was the famous Gaodi Street—similar to Xiushui Street in Beijing or Huating Road in Shanghai, but far grander in scale.
Some small vendors chatted idly with neighboring stall owners, while others haggled loudly with customers. "Giving it away to you!" "Giving it away to you!" they would laugh and call out to customers who were playing hard-to-get by feigning departure, acting as though they were genuinely losing their shirts just to seal the deal. Out-of-town buyers and secondary wholesalers hurried back and forth through the marketplace, carrying large bundles and sacks. Although quite a few among them were newly rich "ten-thousand-yuan households," we still lacked the concept of placing money above all else back then, and we considered running this kind of trade to be rather unrespectable.
Trudging through the streets under the blazing sun amidst the incessant, noisy rattling of cicadas was already exhausting and dull. Suddenly, a deafening blast of music would erupt from a tiny shop. At the beginning of the 1980s, pop songs from Hong Kong and Taiwan had barely entered the mainland; this incomprehensible Cantonese, delivered at an unfamiliar, high-decibel volume, only added to the irritation.
Looking up, every inch of narrow space in the shops was fully utilized. Doors, windows, shelves, and display cases were loaded with items hanging, standing, lying down, or leaning. The merchandise ran the gamut from cigarettes, lighters, toad-lens sunglasses, bell-bottom pants, T-shirts, and costume jewelry, to cassette tapes, stereos, and television sets. The jumble of goods stuffed the shops so completely that there seemed to be nowhere to step, leaving one utterly dazzled. With such visual and auditory congestion, how could anyone find the desire to shop?
At noon, few pedestrians walked the roads, and customers in the shops were scarce. Some shop owners threw basins of cold water onto the street to lower the temperature, while others sat on smooth, worn bamboo chairs by their doorways, swinging large palm-leaf fans.
After a long walk around, you couldn't help but notice that Canton truly deserved its reputation as the City of Flowers. Potted plants and herbs sat on the windowsills, before the doors, and behind the houses of the residents. Blooming in clusters and single flowers under the September sun all along the streets were vibrant hibiscus bushes. That was the first time I had ever seen this flower. It had five petals, with a long pistil dusted with pollen elegant protruding outward, leaving a deep impression on me. The hibiscus flower was so glamorous it was dazzling, so graceful it provoked envy, so fragile it brought an ache to the heart, and so delicate it held one spellbound. If my colleagues hadn't urged me along, I might have truly become a lingering, spellbound "flower fanatic." Later, upon learning that the hibiscus blooms almost year-round and is easy to cultivate, I felt a sudden, empty sense of loss.
Canton’s deeply rooted culinary culture was also immensely attractive to visitors. Restaurants, teahouses, and street snacks were everywhere, boasting a vast variety of foods.
Small street-side shops sold a type of pickled white radish that was sour, delicious, and thirst-quenching. It cost ten cents a skewer, with about three or four chunks on it. Other vendors set up stoves at street corners, boiling large pots of beef offal. That also seemed to cost ten cents a skewer; the owner would lift the offal from the pot right in front of the customer, snip off a few pieces with scissors, skewer them on a long bamboo stick, and hand them over. Pedestrians would take them and eat as they walked.
Along the food streets, restaurants lined up one after another. Whole spit-roasted suckling pigs, roast ducks, and marinated geese hung glinting and glistening with oil inside glass windows, trying to stimulate the appetite. Inside the dining rooms, the four bold characters for "Live Seafood"—written in a fiercely energetic script—caught the eye, though the lobsters and crabs in the large aquariums out front were no longer looking particularly lively. There were also budget snack shops serving clay-pot rice, sampan congee, Shahe rice noodles, and wonton noodles. Outside some doors, young girls stood calling out loudly to invite customers inside to eat.
It was only after arriving in Canton that I realized congee could have so many variations. Before this, my only experience with congee was boiling plain white rice with water, or making rice soup by adding water to leftover overnight rice.
As night fell, both banks of the Pearl River drew on a mysterious, romantic veil. A refreshing evening breeze blew, dispelling the last of the summer heat. Long root tendrils hung from the swaying ancient banyan trees along the shore, drifting gently in the wind. Tourists strolled in groups of two or three, and couples leaning against the waterfront railings murmured sweet nothings to one another.
Strolling across the Pearl River Bridge, the low-hanging starry sky and the lights on both banks reflected off each other with brilliant splendor. Halting my steps in the middle of the bridge, I leaned against the railing, watching the surging ripples and listening to the low murmur of the river torrent, wishing that time would stand still...
Under the dim yellow streetlights beside the grand banyan trees along the river, small food vendors occasionally set up tiny braziers to cook delicious midnight snacks for passing pedestrians and tourists. Having walked the length of the Pearl River and taken a night tour of Liwan Lake, we sat down to rest on stools beside a short wooden table. With great relish, we used toothpicks to pick out and eat the deliciously seasoned river snail meat fried for us by a middle-aged landlady who still retained her youthful charm.
II. First Sight of Massive Fruits at the Botanical Garden
It was likely the morning of September 5th when we walked into the South China Botanical Garden. The grounds were entirely quiet, with no tourists or early morning exercisers in sight. But when we checked the park's teahouse—wow! It was absolutely packed with people having morning tea! Some elderly men had brought their caged birds to the teahouse, hanging the birdcages from the beams and pillars as they drank tea, chatted, and read newspapers. What absolute leisure and freedom!
We also hastily ate a breakfast in the crowded teahouse before moving outdoors. To tell the truth, a stomach raised on rice soup, deep-fried dough sticks, fried rice cakes, sesame balls, and sticky rice rolls—with pan-fried buns as a rare luxury—simply couldn't adjust all at once to nutritious delicacies like chicken feet, shrimp dumplings, and rice noodle rolls.
Guangdong people are deeply fond of drinking tea. Herbal tea is cooling and dispels heat, relieving the summer climate and removing dampness. Morning tea, afternoon tea, and night tea serve not only to fill the stomach but also as occasions to catch up with friends, talk business, and spread rumors.
It was precisely this custom that allowed us to roam completely unobstructed through the botanical garden, making it feel as though the entire three-hundred-hectare park existed solely for us.
Stepping into that vast nature of carpet-like green grass and ancient forests, we were instantly captivated by the beautiful tropical and subtropical landscape.
There were many grand trees in the garden, and many fruits on the trees—that in itself was nothing rare. What was thrilling, however, was that the fruits on the trees were incredibly massive! Weighing down heavily! Wow... I had never seen fruits that large growing directly on trees before! The fruits were so immense that one worried whether the branches could bear the weight—though, of course, that worry was entirely redundant.
Little Q pointed out to us which grand trees held hanging jackfruits and which bore papayas. Carambolas (starfruit) hung from the trees—now those I recognized! Each one was bright and appealing, making one's mouth water! Amidst the bunches of bananas extended a long, thick stalk, with a large purple flower still attached to its tip.
In the past, I hadn't eaten many pomelos, always finding them too sour; looking at that rough rind and thinking of the juicy segments inside instantly made my mouth water with a phantom tartness. As for durian, I had never tasted it at all. There were many other tempting fruits glistening in the sunlight whose names I couldn't catch or remember in the moment, let alone know what they tasted like. I truly envied the residents of the South for their fine culinary fortune.
Everything here was entirely novel! In those days, there was no internet and information was scarce; a northern girl like me, with shallow knowledge who had never seen the wider world, truly felt like Grandma Liu entering the Grand View Garden—my eyes were opened wide!
The word "palm" alone could evoke distant, hazy, and romantic fantasies in my young, innocent, and imaginative mind. It goes without saying that the moment I first saw real palms, I was instantly spellbound. The straight trunks lining both sides of the palm avenue, the dense, feathery fronds, and the fiery sun overhead felt like the fulfillment of a wonderful dream.
Stepping into the tropical plant conservatory felt like entering a fairy tale world. Plants of every family grew to highly exaggerated proportions. The largest barrel cactus I had ever seen before was only the size of a fist, and the largest club-shaped cacti were only as thick as a finger and half a foot tall. Yet the barrel cacti here were unimaginably large; if you weren't afraid of the prickles, you couldn't even wrap both arms around them. The agaves, snake plants, aloes, and club-shaped cacti all grew taller than a human being.
The plants whose names I could call out here were pitifully few. Various succulent and fleshy plants—a new term I had just learned—presented an endless, dazzling array. The flowers there bloomed in what could truly be described as a riot of vibrant colors.
The fern and shade-plant section was cool and humid. The plants here preferred shade over sun, generally did not bloom, and were grown for their foliage. Hanging and dangling from the large nursery frames were numerous slender, delicate, and elegant ferns, providing a thoroughly pleasing sight.
Little Q told us that the tree fern (Alsophila), known as the king of ferns, is hailed as a living fossil of the plant kingdom alongside the dawn redwood and ginkgo. The tree fern coexisted with dinosaurs, dating back 180 million years, and is an ancient relict plant that survived the catastrophe of the Quaternary glaciation on Earth. The dawn redwood was once believed by scientists around the world to be entirely extinct.
The tree fern is the only surviving woody fern plant. Its trunk stands straight and erect, reaching heights of up to eight meters. The top of the tree clusters with numerous massive feathery fronds that can grow up to three meters long, swaying gently in the wind. It does not flower, bear fruit, or produce seeds; it reproduces through spores hidden on the undersides of its fronds. The tree fern prefers a warm, humid climate and typically grows in shaded, damp areas beneath the forest canopy or along the banks of rivers and valleys.
Stepping out from the damp, cool nursery frame back into the bright, sunny world felt exceptionally comfortable. Suddenly, I felt an intense, unbearable itch on my calves. Lifting the hem of my skirt to look—wow! Both of my legs were covered in tiny, dense red bumps that looked exactly like heat rash.
Little Q told me that I had been bitten by "little biters" (xiaoyao / midges) in the shade-plant section. What fierce little biters they were! They are a type of tiny insect similar to mosquitoes, but far smaller. While inside, I had been entirely absorbed in admiring the plants and hadn't paid much attention to those few tiny flying insects—who would have thought the lingering consequences would be endless! The suffering was immense; it took a full two days for those "heat rash" bumps to completely fade away.
III. Trekking Along the Yunxi Stream in Dinghushan
Following our stay in Canton, we arrived at Dinghushan in Zhaoqing, a place widely celebrated as the "emerald on the Tropic of Cancer." It contained over a hundred hectares of primeval forest that remained strictly closed to the general public.
Around noon the next day, we trekked from east to west along the Yunxi Stream, stepping into a completely untrodden primeval forest featuring classic tropical rainforest traits.
The river course wound and twisted continuously, and the torrent rushed and leaped, remaining crystal clear right down to the riverbed. Massive boulders and smooth river cobblestones clustered and scattered along the banks and inside the water, their moist sections coated with a layer of slick, velvety moss.
Bright sunbeams filtered through the dense foliage of the towering ancient trees, splashing a dappled pattern of light and shadow across our bodies, the ground, the stones, and the water surface. The gurgling of the stream rang out with a crisp, refreshing melody that soaked into the heart, while the soft chirping of wild birds inside the woods delighted the ears.
Following the narrow path beside the torrent, we walked sometimes along the southern bank of the stream and sometimes stepped across the stones protruding from the water to walk along the northern bank. Above our heads, ancient vines and fresh creepers climbed, hung, interlinked, and twisted around one another. Beneath our feet, ancient roots and weathered, dead branches jutted out in every direction, tripping our feet and knocking against our knees. Quite often, tangled networks of vines lay directly blocked across our path, forcing us to bend low to crawl underneath. The fallen leaves on the ground formed a thick blanket, rustling softly under our steps, while a gentle breeze drifting past carried a wave of subtle fragrance.
Interspersed among the fallen leaves lay various unidentified, dried-up seedpods. The pod of one particular plant was exceptionally striking. Measuring about two inches long, it resembled a two-segmented edamame pod, though it was considerably larger. Split open and curled outward along one side, the inner lining of the two thin shell-flaps was a brilliant, vivid scarlet—resembling the slightly parted red lips of an innocent young girl experiencing her first awakening of romance. What kind of bean had these red lips once held? And where had they bounced off to? I picked up one of these red lips, wishing to place it inside a book, yet I couldn't bear the thought of pressing it flat.
It brought to mind a poem by Pushkin:
I see a tiny flower forgotten in a book,
Long dried away, its fragrance spent and gone;
And yet, right at this moment, within my soul
A strange and fleeting fantasy is born:
Where did it bloom? When? In which gentle spring?
Did it bloom long? And whose hand plucked it there—
Was it a stranger’s hand, or one well-known?
And why was it laid down inside this care?
Was it to mark a tender, warm embrace,
Or for a fated parting of the heart,
Or in remembrance of a lonely stroll
Where quiet fields and forest shadows part?
Does he still live today? And does she live?
Where is the quiet corner where they dwell?
Or have they both already withered away,
Just like this hidden, nameless flower as well?
......
Holding the red lips in my hand, I kept it until it was time to exit the mountains. Only then, with great reluctance, did I place it back on the forest floor, leaving it in that pristine corner where it belonged. (In 2009, while writing my blog, I searched the internet thoroughly and finally found information on these red lips: the plant is called Pingpo [Chinese sterculia], also known as the "phoenix-eye fruit," a type of arbor tree whose seeds are entirely edible.)
IV. Survival Tactics in the Ancient Forest
Within the vast expanse of the tropical rainforest, the jagged, lush vegetation was split cleanly into tiers of trees, shrubs, and grasses. As we walked along, we collected specimens, filmed, and recorded video footage while listening to the botanists explain various plant phenomena.
We located a wild living fossil of the fern family. Gazing at those slender, elegant branches and fronds, and thinking of their 180-million-year history—an epoch far more ancient than the entire span of human existence—my mind went completely blank...
Immersed in this magnificent nature, with the rushing mountain stream flowing right beside us and intertwined creepers climbing upward along the gnarled, twisting trunks of ancient trees, I couldn't help but recall Sándor Petőfi’s poem:
I would be a torrent
......
If only my love
Were a tiny fish
Swimming joyfully back and forth
Within my flying foam.
I would be a wild forest
......
If only my love
Were a little bird
Building a nest and singing sweet notes
Among my dense, thick branches.
I would be a ruin
......
If only my love
Were a strand of green ivy
Climbing and winding intimately upward
Along my desolate brow.
I wished to be a tiny fish, a little bird, or a strand of green ivy—yet who in this vast world was my torrent, my wild forest, or my ruin?
Lost in these thoughts, I suddenly heard Little Q pointing at a massive tree enveloped by climbing creepers, saying, "This is the phenomenon of strangulation in the natural world." Snapping back to reality from my daydream, I listened to his explanation—and wow! It brought an instant, sobering realization.
As it turned out, the natural world beneath that sun-blocking canopy wasn't nearly as romantic as I had imagined; the plant kingdom was full of fierce competition and cold-blooded execution!
The root systems of plants anchor themselves into the soil to absorb moisture and nutrients necessary for growth, while also serving to balance the trees against external forces; they are constantly expanding both in depth and width. As the forest grows denser, neighboring plants naturally battle one another for space and resources. The closer to the surface layer, the more fertile the soil and the easier it is for plants to breathe, making the competition among vegetation even more intense.
However, the ancient trees in the tropical rainforest grew toweringly high with incredibly heavy foliage. If all their root systems remained at the surface, the trees would become top-heavy and lose their structural balance. Furthermore, the tropical rainforest was incredibly rainy and humid, making it very difficult for tree roots to dig deep into the air-deprived deeper layers of soil to breathe.
What could they do? It seemed the plant kingdom possessed its own distinct wisdom, and each species used its own methods to survive. Some grand trees grew stilt roots outward from their branches, supporting the canopy at multiple points to effectively maintain balance—a phenomenon known as "a single tree forming a forest." The bases of other tree trunks flattened and expanded outward into wing-like shapes, forming buttress roots that wound along the ground to provide additional support, appearing incredibly thick and solid. Surface roots, on the other hand, allowed the root systems to fuse and heal together as they extended across the topsoil, creating a dense net to prevent other plants from invading their territory.
Entwined vines and creepers were a major characteristic of the tropical rainforest. For the sake of sunlight and space, many plants took shortcuts, scaling rock faces and winding their way up tree trunks. Relying on the physical support of other vegetation, they threaded through the gaps in the canopy to climb into the sun-drenched upper tiers. The variety and quantity of these vines were immense; they grew incredibly thick and long, with the longest reaching over three hundred meters, making them the longest living organisms on Earth.
Then there were the predatory epiphytes. These plants chose the weathered, ancient branches of grand trees as their homes, anchoring their highly developed root systems deep inside the fissures and narrow cracks of the bark to live and multiply.
The most brutal of all were the strangler plants. Falling somewhere between vines and epiphytes, their methods represented the absolute pinnacle of predatory warfare for sunlight, space, and nutrients. A strangler began its life just like an epiphyte, anchoring itself onto the branch of a tree; it then climbed upward like a vine to steal the sunlight. Below, it sent down aerial roots that anchored into the soil to siphon away nutrients. These descending roots formed a thick net that completely encased the host trunk, gradually fusing together to lock the host tree in a vice-like grip. In the end, the original tree died from a total deprivation of sunlight and nutrients, leaving the strangler plant to stand on its own as a brand new, massive tree.
How utterly ruthless! Listening to this left me completely stunned. Was human society the exact same way? Must we crush one another just to survive? Lacking experience in the wider world, I fell into a deep maze of confusion. Did this realization ignite a fierce desire to compete and survive within me, or did it plant the seeds of a weary detachment from the world—or perhaps a mixture of both? Did I still wish to be a strand of ivy?
Yet nature also offered enlightenment through a different type of vegetation: the phenomenon of cauliflory (stem-flowering).
The phenomenon where flowers bloom and bear fruit directly on leafless trunks or ancient branches is called cauliflory, a classic trait of rainforest canopy trees. Carambolas, jackfruits, cacao trees, and coffee trees all share this trait.
Most plants that exhibit stem-flowering are dioecious (having separate male and female plants), meaning they must rely entirely on insects to pass on their lineage. They found potential within their own structures, blooming their fresh flowers on the most easily accessible parts of their trunks for insects—convening others while ultimately saving themselves.
V、Played by Butterflies in Butterfly Valley
Around noon, we reached a slightly more open area, and our group sat down to rest on the large boulders beside the stream.
This spot was filled with magnificent butterflies of various colors and species fluttering amidst the blossoms and groves, a truly enchanting sight. Hearing Little Q mention that this place was called "Butterfly Valley," the female graduate student and I felt a sudden burst of childhood innocence and began chasing butterflies along the water's edge. The butterflies here were incredibly clever; they spread their light, beautiful wings and drifted elegantly right before your eyes, yet you simply couldn't catch them.
Spotting a butterfly land on a shrub near the stream, I crept over on tiptoe, drawing closer inch by inch to the insect resting on a leaf. The moment it settled down and folded its wings together, I nipped it gently between my fingers by complete surprise, catching it effortlessly. It was a blue butterfly rimmed with a black border and glinting with a silvery sheen, its thin, clearly veined wings adorned with beautiful spots.
Overjoyed and completely carried away, I became terrified of hurting it, so I placed it in the palm of my hand and cupped both hands together, leaving a tiny gap between my fingers so it wouldn't suffocate. When I walked over to the graduate student and slowly opened my hands for her to admire it, the butterfly gave a single flap of its wings and soared straight out of my palm. It left behind nothing but a slick, powdery sensation where the dust from its wings had brushed against my fingers.
Another butterfly landed on a large rock by the stream. I crept over quietly, but just as I reached out my hand, it took flight again, landing on another boulder out in the middle of the stream. I slowly made my way toward it, balancing on my tiptoes across the large and small rocks protruding from the water.
Just as I was about to snatch it, my foot suddenly slipped. I lost my balance entirely and crashed straight down into the water. In my single-minded focus on catching the butterfly, I had failed to notice that the river cobblestone I was stepping on was coated with a layer of slippery green moss.
Fortunately, the current was slow here, and the water at its deepest only reached a person's waist. I scrambled up from the water immediately, my shoes, socks, and trousers completely soaked through, and my shirt more than half-drenched. Baffled and utterly mortified, I had to endure the roaring laughter of my male colleagues, who had been sitting comfortably on the bank chatting and taking in the view the entire time.
Fortunately, there were several large boulders scattered along the water's edge. The side facing the sun was smooth and baked warm—almost hot—by the sunshine.
With the graduate student keeping watch, I hid behind a massive rock, took off my soaked outer clothing, rinsed them in the clear water, wrung them out, and spread them flat across the boulder to dry in the sun. Immediately after, I lay flat against the stone to enjoy a thoroughly comfortable sunbath—a genuine sunbath, though I had no idea what the term meant back then.
The two-meter-long boulder had a gentle slope that tilted at the absolute perfect angle. The incline faced southeast, with the northwestern end raised high; as long as I didn't raise my head and they didn't stand up, that group of men couldn't see a thing. None of us were at the age of marriage yet, and people back then carried very few stray thoughts; they were inherently reserved, so they all sat far away, continuing to chat and laugh cheerfully.
Our commotion must have disturbed the "mountain woodsmen" inside the dense jungle. Of course, who were they really? How could they suddenly materialize out of nowhere in the middle of this deep, ancient forest? Having been raised on a strict diet of atheistic education, we could only categorize them as "mountain woodsmen." The two men had deeply weathered, dark faces—one appeared younger, while the other looked middle-aged. They suddenly burst through the thick layers of leaves from a high vantage point. Materializing out of nothing in a split second, they looked exactly like visitors from outer space. We all stared at one another in utter astonishment. Having walked through this primeval forest for several hours, we hadn't seen a single human silhouette, nor had we spotted any other paths—though, of course, we had only followed the stream bed and didn't know if there were tracks higher up on the mountain. After all, this section was a closed nature reserve. After pausing for just a few seconds, they melted back into the dense forest and vanished.
The "Water Curtain Cave" was the grandest waterfall along the Yunxi Stream. Its roar was deafening as a curtain of water cascaded down from a height of thirty meters, plunging straight into a clear pool and churning up a violent vortex. Behind the torrent lay a cliff cave. Little L and I hugged the edge of the cliff, treading carefully across the slick stones to slip into the cave mouth hidden behind the waterfall, the flying spray dampening our hair and clothes.
Standing inside the Water Curtain Cave and looking out through the cascading torrent, the green mountains and rocky gorges appeared completely distorted, poetic, misty, and full of surreal charm.
Opposite the waterfall, out in the pool water, rested a flat, square stone. I sat on that stone, writing down the pure shock and emotion that the beauty of nature had stirred within me. On the back of that photograph, I wrote four characters: "Heartfelt words flowing like water." As for what those specific heartfelt words were, I have completely forgotten them by now.
The Baiyun (White Cloud) Temple, nestled deep within the dense shade of ancient trees, possessed a history stretching back nearly four hundred years. A bowl of vegetarian hair-vegetable (facai) noodles prepared by the monks there felt, at that moment, like the single most delicious bowl of noodles I had ever tasted in my entire life.
VI. A Visit to Qixingyan (Seven Star Crags)
Emerging from the primeval forest of Dinghushan, we took the opportunity to visit Qixingyan, located just north of Zhaoqing City. Qixingyan is composed of seven limestone peaks that rise abruptly from the ground, arranged in the shape of the Big Dipper and scattered across a mirror-like lake surface spanning nearly 600 hectares. Long lakeside dikes, delicate small bridges, and winding paths split the Star Lake into five beautiful bodies of water. There was a popular saying that this place gathered the mountains of Guilin and the waters of Hangzhou. Regretfully, I have never been to Guilin.
The day we visited Qixingyan featured clear, boundless blue skies, and it felt as though we had no official duties, traveling purely for leisure. We walked along the shaded lakeside dike cutting through the scenic area, experiencing the absolute tranquility that nature offered. However, having just stepped out from the raw wildness of a primeval forest, arriving at this famous scenic landmark—which carried a somewhat delicate, artificially carved charm—left us feeling a bit too "entangled in the mortal world." By comparison, I far preferred the primitive simplicity and natural state of the ancient forests.
Those two wilderness expeditions in July and September 1982 remain completely unforgettable for the rest of my days. Especially inside those untrodden primeval forests, that sensation of melting into nature and achieving a total unity between heaven and humanity is truly beyond words. How incredibly fortunate!
Upon returning to Canton, Little Q managed to secure tickets for the French 250th Anniversary Painting Exhibition. On a certain day in October, we arranged to meet at the People's Park after work to view the exhibition together. That was the first time I had ever laid eyes on Western paintings, and it was my very first time visiting an art exhibition. It was an absolute, shattering shock. The exhibition displayed 78 masterpieces by 61 artists spanning the years 1620 to 1870, drawn from the collections of the Louvre and Versailles. That was my beautiful, long-belated enlightenment in art.
After we returned to the university, Little Q gave me a pot of maidenhair fern (tiexianjue)—slender, delicate, and extraordinarily elegant. A colleague helped me construct a custom-made, rectangular, flat tray from polished terrazzo cement, about two feet long. I filled the tray with water, living stones, soil, and moss, anchoring that pot of maidenhair fern right behind the miniature rocks of the water landscape.
The bonsai landscape turned out beautifully; a tiny world mimicking vast nature, it brought me an immense amount of pride and joy. However, because I didn't understand the survival habits of the maidenhair fern, that beautiful plant didn't survive very long on my office desk. For a very long time afterward, I carried a deep sense of guilt and regret.
Perhaps it was simply due to my own shallow experience, but it seemed that back in those days, flower shops and nurseries were rarely open to the general public. Whenever someone cultivated plants or flowers, they were invariably sourced from somewhere obscure or gifted by someone specific; I never once heard of a commercial place where you could simply buy them. Little Q's maidenhair fern had been obtained by asking the gardeners at the university nursery.

特別感謝 Gemini AI 提供充滿活力的翻譯和文本潤色。

Special thanks to Gemini AI for providing the spirit translation and text refinement.

第三百七十篇